My 408

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JBurch

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2009
Messages
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Location
Owego, NY
It's not together yet, but here are the bits and pieces of my 408:

Block is 1970 360, .030 over, square decked to 9.588, line honed, main caps studded, lifter bores bushed.
Scat 4340 crank, Scat H-beam rods, upgraded ARP bolts, Icon 744 pistons, Internal balance.
Heads are my Edelbrocks, bought them as "Stage 3" CNC ported back in 08 following is local flow bench after some touch up:
Before After
.300 222.8/137.6 222.0/151.3
.400 258.0/163.7 263.7/194.7
.500 271.1/188.4 280.5/205.8
.550 275.6/198.4 280.5/208.3
.600 278.6/200.8 282.3/208.3
.650 279.3/203.3 284.2/208.3
Chamber volume is 60 cc
Have 2 intakes to choose from, an M1 and a Holley Strip Dominator
Have 2 carbs, 750 DP and an 850 Quick fuel

Cam is a Comp Cams custom grind solid FT:
Duration at .020 297 I and 318 E
Duration at .050 271 I and 280 E
Install at 104 intake center line
Lobe separation 108
Lobe lift is .4200 I and .4050 E
I have 1.6 Hughes roller tip rockers

photo.JPG head2.JPG


20171023_201209.jpg block1.jpg


photo.JPG head3.JPG
 
As I recall the last comment you made on my car was how slow it is.. if you don't notch the bottom of those bores your cars going to be slow to...
A bunch of Ford guys did the machine works on my motor and they had been around the block enough to automatically Notch the bottom of the block when they bored it with the knowledge that it was going to be a stroker.. not that it needed it with I beam rods but who wants to take a chance...
 
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As I recall the last comment you made on my car was how slow it is.. if you don't notch the bottom of those bores your cars going to be slow to...
A bunch of Ford guys did the machine works on my motor and they had been around the block enough to automatically Notch the bottom of the block when they bored it with the knowledge that it was going to be a stroker.. not that it needed it with I beam rods but who wants to take a chance...

My commentary about your car being slow, was based on the fact you carry 40 plus more cubic inches, roughly 400 more cfm , more tire

As for clearance, that is why you measure twice
 
You bet JPar; I'll just keep twisting on that crankshaft with that pipe wrench till it clears.........problem, no problem
actually I'm thinking all the stuff's assembled and you're their filing on the bottom corners of the block.. where are all those filings going as opposed to just pre notching it at the machine shop for I think it cost $90...
 
My commentary about your car being slow, was based on the fact you carry 40 plus more cubic inches, roughly 400 more cfm , more tire

As for clearance, that is why you measure twice
Bench racing Mania drag your crap out here and lineup...
 
actually I'm thinking all the stuff's assembled and you're their filing on the bottom corners of the block.. where are all those filings going as opposed to just pre notching it at the machine shop for I think it cost $90...


Jason, your concern for the welfare of my engine is admirable, thank you for your kind thoughts and best wishes..........I think ( damn there I go trying new things again )I have a handle on this.......with out trying I managed to build a 360 that would out run YOUR 410......there is no such thing as being too clean, nor too careful. Then again, who knows, it could frag itself as soon as I fire it up.........
 
Jason, your concern for the welfare of my engine is admirable, thank you for your kind thoughts and best wishes..........I think ( damn there I go trying new things again )I have a handle on this.......with out trying I managed to build a 360 that would out run YOUR 410......there is no such thing as being too clean, nor too careful. Then again, who knows, it could frag itself as soon as I fire it up.........
Your optimism is admirably as well.. especially when you talk about out running me because that's all it is...
I know when I chose the parts for my stroker I chose the I beam rods that will clear and the Machine Shop still notched my block when they did the boring because it was part of the programming available for this type of engine build. It actually cost$90 and I said that didn't need to happen and he said well how about if we split the difference I said okay. as I research the h-beam rods definitely needed to be notched and I don't see how you would put the motor together without doing that first...
Remember you kicked my sand castle first! I'm willing to drop it..
 
Your optimism is admirably as well.. especially when you talk about out running me because that's all it is...
I know when I chose the parts for my stroker I chose the I beam rods that will clear and the Machine Shop still notched my block when they did the boring because it was part of the programming available for this type of engine build. It actually cost$90 and I said that didn't need to happen and he said well how about if we split the difference I said okay. as I research the h-beam rods definitely needed to be notched and I don't see how you would put the motor together without doing that first...
Remember you kicked my sand castle first! I'm willing to drop it..

Jason, I already out ran you. Sadly we will not ever line up along side one another as I'm not likely to drive out to Oreygone, and you are not likely to drive out to Neeww Yoorork.

As I trial fit everything prior to final assembly, I will clearance as necessary, it's not that hard to do, you know, it's part of that measure twice thing.
 
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