My 422 smallblock build

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SSG_Karg said:
I tried the mgispeedware calculator and all it tells me is exactly what my cam car tells me. I tried putting in 106 as ICL and I can’t see any difference in the percentage numbers. Guess I’m not as smart as the calculator.
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Go back and where it asks for Lobe Separation Angle you type in 108 (because that is your LSA according to your cam card) and just below that there is a box to put in the amount advance the card call for, which in your case is the number 4.

Then look very close at the overlap triangle and see how it’s centered around TDC. It’s not. Theoretically if your cam has 4 degrees advance ground into it, when you input 4 into the advance box, the overlap triangle would be centered. Again, it’s not.

Then go back to that box and change the 4 into a 2 and look at the overlap triangle. It’s now centered. That means your cam is ground with 2 degrees advance in it, not 4. You can also input a 0 in that box, and you’ll see the overlap triangle is now to the right of TDC (which is retarded from the LSA).

Godbold said in the HR article when the engine combo is well sorted out, they generally call out for tighter than “normal” LSA numbers, and rather than install the cam advanced, they center the overlap triangle.

The whole article is worth reading. I think it’s the March 2020 issue of Hot Rod magazine.
 
yellow rose said:
You should read it. Very good article. Hard to justify why Comp does what Comp does, but the article goes a long way to make some sense of it.
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Not much progress on the stroker lately. I have a major home improvement project going on and with summer in full swing there just aren’t enough hours in the day.
I managed to get the shortblock assembled but that’s about it. I’m using a factory 8 blade water pump, a Speedmaster fluid damper knock-off, and an 8qt. Moroso pan and matching pickup.
After disassembling and cleaning the Johnson solid roller lifters, they were reassembled and took a nice long oil bath before finding their way into their bores. Just an FYI for anyone wondering, the oil band on these lifters does not get exposed above the lifter bore with the .600” lift cam, so technically I wouldn’t have had to tube the block.
I did manage to dial in the installed height for all the valve springs so next step will be disassembling the heads for a good douching before putting them together for good.

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SSG_Karg said:
Not much progress on the stroker lately. I have a major home improvement project going on and with summer in full swing there just aren’t enough hours in the day.
I managed to get the shortblock assembled but that’s about it. I’m using a factory 8 blade water pump, a Speedmaster fluid damper knock-off, and an 8qt. Moroso pan and matching pickup.
After disassembling and cleaning the Johnson solid roller lifters, they were reassembled and took a nice long oil bath before finding their way into their bores. Just an FYI for anyone wondering, the oil band on these lifters does not get exposed above the lifter bore with the .600” lift cam, so technically I wouldn’t have had to tube the block.
I did manage to dial in the installed height for all the valve springs so next step will be disassembling the heads for a good douching before putting them together for good.

View attachment 1715559676

View attachment 1715559677
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Just remember tubing the block isn’t just to keep the lifter from uncovering the oil gallery. That gigantic hole back there leaks a good bit of oil all around the bores. So tubing it eliminates most of that.

BTW...don’t know if you know but that style of damper is thicker than an OE damper and you will have to verify and correct pulley alignment using it.

Most any decent damper is thicker than OE and you have this issue.

I always set that up while the engine is on the stand. Much easier to do on the stand than in the CAR!!! BTDT.
 
yellow rose said:
BTW...don’t know if you know but that style of damper is thicker than an OE damper and you will have to verify and correct pulley alignment using it.
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I’ve already started experimenting with the pulleys I have on hand. There is definitely a misalignment issue to contend with.
 
j par said:
I like my cvf racing pulleys and alternator bracket.. really like the bracket..
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Thanks. I’ve eyeballed them in the past. I have a set of March underdrive and a few factory pulleys. Probably end up using a shim somewhere.
 
SSG_Karg said:
Thanks. I’ve eyeballed them in the past. I have a set of March underdrive and a few factory pulleys. Probably end up using a shim somewhere.
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I actually have the underdrive pulley myself for when I was using a electric water pump. With the factory pulley it was too fast just running an alternator and would make the belt fly off... Of course that was at the drag strip LOL...
I really like to turnbuckle for tightening the alternator. I do have to put a washer on the backside of the water pump bolts to space it out just a little bit...
 
I was about to pull the trigger on cvf but I already had a march bracket. Now jegs keeps backdating my backorders for the rest of the serpentine kit :wtf:
 
mini said:
I was about to pull the trigger on cvf but I already had a march bracket. Now jegs keeps backdating my backorders for the rest of the serpentine kit :wtf:
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My experience and a customer of mines experience we're both very good with their customer support..cvf...
 
Any updates? Your thread has been a good read:thumbsup:
 
j par said:
I actually have the underdrive pulley myself for when I was using a electric water pump. With the factory pulley it was too fast just running an alternator and would make the belt fly off... Of course that was at the drag strip LOL...
I really like to turnbuckle for tightening the alternator. I do have to put a washer on the backside of the water pump bolts to space it out just a little bit...
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j par I have had the same thought of using a turnbuckle for the alternator but I was never able to get it right in my head. Please provide a couple pics of your setup. Thanks in advance
 
yellow rose said:
Godbold said in the HR article when the engine combo is well sorted out, they generally call out for tighter than “normal” LSA numbers, and rather than install the cam advanced, they center the overlap triangle.

The whole article is worth reading. I think it’s the March 2020 issue of Hot Rod magazine.
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Is this article available on another site or only Hot Rod? Trying to find it but so far I haven’t found one with overlap triangle content. EDIT: Maybe the link has been posted previously or elsewhere, I must have overlooked it. Is this the article?? Do Similar-Duration Performance Camshafts All Perform About the Same, or Differently?
 
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I just got a setup from CFV for a belt drive alternator. I’ll mock it up here how it works and send pics. The kit is well worth it but you have to get the CFV pulleys for spacing. I went with a V-belt because I enclosed the water pump impeller (it’s really more of a fan from the factory, whips more coolant than it moves) on a 6 vane pump from the rear and the front, and the 18-3/4 under-drive will help keep it out of cavitation. The more efficient you can make it, the less rpm it needs to do work.
 
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