My 422 smallblock build

mopfried

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I have been following this build. I am slowly getting my ducks in a row to build an almost identical build. I have some ported 010 W2 heads with iron and aluminum rockers, both a 360 or a 340 block to build upon. I cant wait to see what kind of numbers SSG_Karg's stroker will make. Will it see a dyno?
 

SSG_Karg

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I have been following this build. I am slowly getting my ducks in a row to build an almost identical build. I have some ported 010 W2 heads with iron and aluminum rockers, both a 360 or a 340 block to build upon. I cant wait to see what kind of numbers SSG_Karg's stroker will make. Will it see a dyno?
Dyno testing is unlikely, as it is very expensive and this motor is not going in a dedicated drag car. I hope to get it on a run stand for break-in and checking for leaks before dropping it in the Duster. The car will see the occasional trip to the drag strip but it’s no where near sorted out and I’m not a pro driver. So the numbers it puts on the board probably won’t be an accurate measure of the engine’s potential. I’m just building it to show off, do obnoxious burnouts, and have a genuine wild time.
If it runs 11s, I’ll be tickled pink.
 

SSG_Karg

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Pushrods arrived from Smith Brothers yesterday. Very nice pieces. 3/8 x .083 wall 4130 chromoly. Overall length comes in at 7.280”. My only gripe about them is the shipping charge. They charged me $31 to ship a 4lbs small box of pushrods from Oregon to Pennsylvania via UPS. Maybe it’s out of their control but seems excessive to me. Other than that they are beautiful.
Got a couple installed and lashed to check piston to valve clearance using the clay method. Clearance is in the .300” range both intake and exhaust. That’s great news because I can already see myself going to a higher lift cam in the future.

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Avoided potential catastrophe. While lashing the valves, this adjuster gave up the ghost. I was cranking it down and it felt kinda weak like it was beginning to strip the threads so I stopped and backed it off. Removed the adjuster and inspected. Saw what looked like a small sliver of thread from the nut but I couldn’t remove it. Ran it over the wire wheel on the bench grinder and it looked like it was gone. Reinstalled and it ultimately snapped off with very minimal torque. Turns out what I thought was a sliver of thread was actually a tiny crack in the adjuster and the wire wheel just camouflaged it. Replaced it with a spare and finished lashing.
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SSG_Karg

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If SSG has never checked/measured the rocker ratio on a set of W2’s before, it could be enlightening.
Between the pushrod/lifter angularity and the intake pushrods being “laid sideways”, the net ratio is often over .1 lower than “advertised”(even with a checking spring).

You already have a cam, so in your case “iiwii”.

But if you were thinking about changing it down the road, it would be worth knowing what the net rocker ratio(loaded with full spring force) actually is.
I went ahead and checked lift at the retainer out of curiosity. With cold lash set at .018”, l am seeing .581-.587 on the intakes and .584-.591 exhaust. Cam is advertised as .400” lobe lift and .600/.600 with a 1.5 rocker. Not as bad as I had expected.

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PRH

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Sounds like your net ratio is very close to 1.5.

Better than I would have expected.

(Theoretically, in order to get .600 lift, you’d have to have the lash at zero)

Btw, Smith Brothers makes some very nice adjuster screws.
 
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Jeff Seighman

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Dyno testing is unlikely, as it is very expensive and this motor is not going in a dedicated drag car. I hope to get it on a run stand for break-in and checking for leaks before dropping it in the Duster. The car will see the occasional trip to the drag strip but it’s no where near sorted out and I’m not a pro driver. So the numbers it puts on the board probably won’t be an accurate measure of the engine’s potential. I’m just building it to show off, do obnoxious burnouts, and have a genuine wild time.
If it runs 11s, I’ll be tickled pink.
I've got a feeling you'll be tickled pink!
 

SSG_Karg

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Btw, Smith Brothers makes some very nice adjuster screws.
Yeah, in hindsight I wish I would have just ordered a set of cup adjusters and ball/ball pushrods. I’ll probably still get a new set to replace the current ones. Paranoia is setting in.
 

mopfried

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Yeah, in hindsight I wish I would have just ordered a set of cup adjusters and ball/ball pushrods. I’ll probably still get a new set to replace the current ones. Paranoia is setting in.

Without going back thru all the threads, would you need through the pushrod oiling to use ball/ball pushrods?
 

12many

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Without going back thru all the threads, would you need through the pushrod oiling to use ball/ball pushrods?
Without modifying the rockers, yes. Need pushrod oiling lifters (AMC style), ball/ball oiling pushrods and cup adjusters.
 

B3RE

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Sounds like your net ratio is very close to 1.5.

Better than I would have expected.

(Theoretically, in order to get .600 lift, you’d have to have the lash at zero)

Btw, Smith Brothers makes some very nice adjuster screws.
They might be a little better than they were originally. Since I had to restore the radius on the rocker tips anyway, I cut the fulcrum length slightly longer so the rocker would center on the valve tip a little better in his application. That would have the effect of a very modest ratio increase, but I figured it would still be below advertised. Looks like it worked out better than expected.

FWIW, when I order from Smith Brothers, I specify USPS priority shipping. For all the troubles I have had with the postal service, they are cheaper and faster than UPS or FedEx when shipping across the country. UPS and FedEx will put the package on a truck and drive it the whole way. USPS used to have a 3 day guarantee on priority mail anywhere in the US. They will put it on a plane and get it to Pennsylvania in roughly three days, for about $10. I just got a set Thursday afternoon that were ordered Tuesday morning.
 

SSG_Karg

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FWIW, when I order from Smith Brothers, I specify USPS priority shipping.
Live and learn I guess. I’ll probably end up getting a set of adjuster screws from them and I’ll be sure to specify USPS shipping.
 

SSG_Karg

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They might be a little better than they were originally. Since I had to restore the radius on the rocker tips anyway, I cut the fulcrum length slightly longer so the rocker would center on the valve tip a little better in his application. That would have the effect of a very modest ratio increase, but I figured it would still be below advertised. Looks like it worked out better than expected.
By the way Mike, great job bringing these old rockers back to life. I think you should be credited with the minimal loss of lift due to your dressing of the rocker tips. Good job brother!
 

SSG_Karg

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Next step is going to be adding some oil and priming the oiling system. What kind of oil is everyone using in similar builds, particularly during break in? Obviously I’m not going to be breaking in a camshaft but as far as seating the rings goes, is conventional oil recommended for the initial break in period?
 

B3RE

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By the way Mike, great job bringing these old rockers back to life. I think you should be credited with the minimal loss of lift due to your dressing of the rocker tips. Good job brother!
Thanks Jim, but I don't have to be credited. I was just trying to make them usable and fit reasonably well. I wasn't sure if I mentioned the increased fulcrum length to you, but when Dwayne mentioned the ratio accuracy, it reminded me that I did that, and it probably had some beneficial effect on ratio. I gotta be careful here, or I'll have the phone ringing off the hook with people wanting me to "ratio" their iron rockers, lol. With all the grief you have had with this build, I'm hoping it lives up to your expectations. I'm looking forward to hearing about the first beat run.
 

Bewy

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B3RE,
You mentioned increasing the fulcrum length. With these rockers, do you do this slightly re-grinding the shoe so that the high point is slightly further outboard? Thanks.
 

B3RE

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B3RE,
You mentioned increasing the fulcrum length. With these rockers, do you do this slightly re-grinding the shoe so that the high point is slightly further outboard? Thanks.
Essentially, that's the effect.
 


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