65 Dart Wagon Conversion to a Sedan Delivery

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I feel like Grandpa Simpson.
Why would you replace a part that lasts forever with one that wears out?
When a gas strut fails on a press guard, someone may get hurt from a falling guard.
I've seen experienced lead pressmen get damaged.
If a torsion bar is weak, you can simply bend it to a renewed position.
When a strut fails, that's all.
 
Thanks for commenting. Even Mother Mopar did away with the hood torsion bars and went to springs built in to the hinges and then much later when the strut technology was greatly improved. I prefer how removing the hood torsion bars (which were in fact both weak and binding on the hinges) for the struts improved the engine compartment look. I did it because as it's my car I can!
 
so inspiring....I had to get my own

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65 Dartman said:
Thanks!



If I eliminate the power steering box I could use an A100 van alternator mounting bracket (I have one somewhere!) and possibly mount the AC compressor there. That particular bracket installs in place of the PS pump and I am not giving up my Stage III PS box Steer and Gear built for me!



I really liked what Mopar Tim did on his Dart hood struts, so I followed suit. And IMO, cleans up the engine compartment quite a bit.
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Is it possible to move the battery tray and put the compressor instead? I know it would be a long drive belt but there you have some space to use. Then you can add the battery on the spare wheel area!
 
65dartcharger said:
Is it possible to move the battery tray and put the compressor instead? I know it would be a long drive belt but there you have some space to use. Then you can add the battery on the spare wheel area!
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Ulf, I suppose the battery could be moved to the spare tire well but at this time the plan is to retain the battery in the stock location.

My triple Weber setup is still installed to my spare slant and every time I walk by it, I am still looking for options to try and add the Sanden compressor and still use the triple Webers. It would have been no problem if I had not decided to add AC but the AC firewall change is done so I will have to live with it.
 
Dartman I love the strut rod for the hood. can you tell what mitsu the strut rods came from. I mocked mine up and I don't have the hood opening as much as you do as my struts must be a bit shorter than yours.
 
I used 96-06 Mitsubishi Monterey/sport SUV Rear hatch rods. I raised my hood pretty high, set my upper pivot in place letting the bottom fall where it may. The same thing should work for shorter rods I would think. Any pics of yours?
 
I didn't take any pics of my hood struts. the hood and trunk are getting primed on the under side now. I'm going to get the same struts as you as see if that helps my lifting height. After looking closely at your pics I think that with the shorter struts I should of mounted a little differently, but I'm going with new ones with my existing mounting holes and see if that works any better.
Thanks for the part info.
 
Just received a NOS driver's side taillight housing/trim/lens assembly. It ought to go well with my NOS Body taillights with the back up lenses
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amazing how NOS parts are still out there.

I just picked up some NOS lenses for my 63 valiant wagon too. There weren't cheap but nothing like them. Any used lens I have found was so faded .......

good score
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
amazing how NOS parts are still out there.

I just picked up some NOS lenses for my 63 valiant wagon too. There weren't cheap but nothing like them. Any used lens I have found was so faded .......

good score
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You are so right - nothing like brand new, un-faded and un-cracked lenses.

When I bought my tailgate with the power window (not yet installed) from a 63/Dart (or maybe Valiant) I got him to include the round back-up lights as well as the front turn signals.
 
Hi Don, I like that NOS taillight assembly. Thinking of starting to look for such parts for my 66 Barracuda. These are the things that "catch the eye"...
 
I pulled the emergency brake handle assembly as it will be in the way when I start other work. I decided to also pull the first cable that is attached to the handle and is secured to the transmission cross member as I will not be using any of the original emergency brake stuff as the new OEM cables which attach to my rear disc brakes are used with a floor mounted handle by the driver's seat. After I pull the intermediate cable under the car and the pair of short cables to the rear brakes, they'll probably be listed for sale.
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Since the automatic transmission brake pedal will also be in the way (and I'm converting to a 4 speed anyway), it had to go too!
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robodhran said:
Hi Don...are these pictures of you on your new profile icon? Robert
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Hi Robert- yes and no! The bottom center is of my Dad (a WW II, Korean and Vietnam Air Force vet), the one on the left is my oldest son who spent time in the Air Force, the one on the right is my youngest son who spent time in the Navy and yours truly top center just after graduation from Air Force boot camp in 66.
 
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I admit it - I've been lazy and not very motivated to work on the wagon! I decided the other day to get off my duff and get the driver's replacement floor pan in. I finally removed most of the rotten, rusty metal (yes some California cars do have rust issues due to a leaky cowl). Here's what I had left
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I took my cut-off wheel, grinder, spot weld cutter and Rolox and cleaned all the metal to bare metal around the perimeter of where the new floor pan butts against the top of the inner rocker panel, the firewall, the transmission tunnel and in front of the seat area. Took my combo flanger/punch and made a series of holes around the perimeter and over the frame rail and trans cross member of the new floorpan to mimic spot welds. So today I finally got the floor pan tacked in several spots before - wouldn't you know it - ran out of gas! Here's the replacenent floor pan tacked in:
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Even an original 65 floor hump fits very well over the tunnel and new pan.
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After I get another tank of gas, then it's weld the pan to the underlying metal through the holes and seam seal it. Then on to the next floor pan - the passenger front is pretty rusty but I have hopes for it as there's no rust through - yet. Passenger rear needs either patches or replacement- kids dragging in wet Santa Monica beach sand does a number on the metal! Driver's rear for some reason is not too bad (maybe the PO's kid didn't sit on that side!).
 
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I had sent my wagon's original hood latch and associated parts Off to be refinished. The latch itself was originally gold anodized as was the part where it is latched. The catch hook and part that actually unlatches the latch is cad plated. I was surprised that the bolts holding these parts were still black, so they got black phosphate coated.
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While I was at it, I sent a few other parts to be done at the same time - rear bumper bracket hardware:
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This bracket bolts to the slant's power steering area, then the pump is attached to the bracket. I'm not sure but think it might be unique for a slant with power steering and factory AC.
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And the inside latch handle for the tailgate. All this stuff will be added to what I've already had done.
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65dartcharger said:
Great progress Don! Did you fabricate a new floor pan yourself or cam they be bought?
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Ha! I'm nowhere good enough to fabricate such a complicated floor pan. I had actually bought one from one company and returned it the next day - it was basically a flat piece of metal with a couple of stiffening ribs and bent up to mimic the toe board. I bought a different company's floorpan that Another member recommended - very nice fit as it virtually dropped in with some trimming where it meets the top of the inner rocker panel. It's wider than needs to be at that point - maybe a universal fit for later A Bodies?
 
65 Dartman said:
Ha! I'm nowhere good enough to fabricate such a complicated floor pan. I had actually bought one from one company and returned it the next day - it was basically a flat piece of metal with a couple of stiffening ribs and bent up to mimic the toe board. I bought a different company's floorpan that Another member recommended - very nice fit as it virtually dropped in with some trimming where it meets the top of the inner rocker panel. It's wider than needs to be at that point - maybe a universal fit for later A Bodies?
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yep one companie's patch panels are such crap!!!!! nice work!!
 
I am liking these early A's. They look small and light, probably haul *** with a 273 in them. I remember a guy in my neighborhood had a 66 Barracuda back in the early 80's. It was a neat little car.
 
Dartswinger70 said:
I am liking these early A's. They look small and light, probably haul *** with a 273 in them. I remember a guy in my neighborhood had a 66 Barracuda back in the early 80's. It was a neat little car.
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yes light, neat cars. people tend to put down the 273 but if built right, as in oem blueprint and not trying to make into more than it is, great strong runner. sure you can build more power in a bigger small block.
I liike the simplicity of the early A's.
 
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