My '75 Scamp 383 Build

Big Block A body Tech

  1. roadrunnerh

    roadrunnerh Well-Known Member

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    I made it a goal when I purchased this 383 complete engine. I want to rebuild a Mopar big block on my own. $100 bought this engine 17 years ago from a friend. The numbers on the block reveal it was originally assembled for a 1969 Dodge Charger as a 9.2 to 1 compression 2Bbl engine. I'll show some shots of the engine after disassembly.
    383 Mains.jpg Not the best detail, but all I got.
    383 Front.jpg
    #3 main bearing a.jpg #3 main bearing b.jpg
    The two above are of the #3 Main Bearing. Looks good?
     
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    • RustyRatRod

      RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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      Yup those look fine.
       
    • roadrunnerh

      roadrunnerh Well-Known Member

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      I hope to get support, criticism, and most importantly some tech help and know how from so many of you - especially RustyRatRod! From what I have read, he can appreciate what I'm doing. So thank you all in advance. I'll do my best to post updates - and pics - of my progress and setbacks. I will definitely have tons of questions. So thanks for reading and I'll get started.

      Some of my objectives:
      Clean up, Hone cylinders and block,
      New piston rings Mopar# 2808453 off ebay,
      Reuse push rods, pistons, rods, and crank,
      Install new oil pump, fuel pump, cam, lifters, valve springs, timing chain, rod and main bearings.
      I would like to do this without having to get the block bored or the block needing any trips to the machine shop. This is a low-buck engine build. My first ever! So bare with me....... I'm learning. Stay tuned....
       
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      • roadrunnerh

        roadrunnerh Well-Known Member

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        Funny, you were responding as I was typing more info, including a shout out to you.
         
      • roadrunnerh

        roadrunnerh Well-Known Member

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        I plan on either going with the Edelbrock 2186 (performer 383) OR the cast iron 2806301.
        My cam choices are Mopar p4452783 RR Cam, OR Comp Cam XE 21-222-4 (Duration 262/270, Lift .462/.470)
         
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        • roadrunnerh

          roadrunnerh Well-Known Member

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          But first, I need to make this...
          dirty piston 1.JPG
          To look like this...
          clean piston 1.JPG
           
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          • mopowers

            mopowers Well-Known Member

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            What did you use to clean the pistons?
             
          • Murray

            Murray FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            I think you are getting ahead of yourself. First you need to mic the bores and the pistons to see if you can reuse them. You need to mic the crank to determine its condition. The #1 engine killer is old connecting rod bolts- replace with ARP. You should replace the cam and lifters, maybe upgrade. Good luck.
             
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            • roadrunnerh

              roadrunnerh Well-Known Member

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              Soaked in WD40 for a couple days, green scotch-bright pads, plastic scraper, half a piston ring, and LOTS of elbow grease! Cleaning the ring landings is tedious!
               
            • RustyRatRod

              RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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              Sounds like my kinda build. lol Some of these can really surprise you AS LONG AS you don't cut the "wrong" corners. Just an example of some "I won't cut".....

              Mic the crank. If it needs turning, DO IT. That doesn't just go for journal size, it goes for shape too. Journals can get out of round.
              New oil pump. HV if you prefer, make sure to get a hardened intermediate shaft. @stroked340 LOL
              GOOD timing set. Billet, probably a tick over $100. (I know, but it's important)
              Whatever camshaft you choose, DEGREE IT. We can help you "decide where" if you choose one "out of the box".

              That's about all I can think off right off the bat. I'm sure there's more.
               
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              • RustyRatRod

                RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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                Yes, that was one more "don't cut corner on". Replacing the rod bolts and having the rods resized. I just don't build one anymore without doing that. Just sit there and think for a second.......how many times have the factory rod bolts been slung around the crank center line? Did you know that rod bolts stretch a tiny amount like rubber bands when the engine is revved? It's true. They can only stand that "so much". I'd hate to see a 60 dollar set of rod bolts cost an engine. Even a budget build.
                 
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                • roadrunnerh

                  roadrunnerh Well-Known Member

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                  1968 Factory Service manual (4.2495" - 4.2515")
                  Number Top Bottom
                  #1 4.252 4.246
                  #2 4.252 4.247
                  #3 4.255 4.250
                  #4 4.252 4.247
                  #5 4.252 4.250
                  #6 4.251 4.247
                  #7 4.252 4.2515
                  #8 4.252 4.248
                  * Pistons 1,5,7,and 6 have a number (casting?) 2863116 inside piston.

                  *Pistons 2,3,4, and 8 have number 2863115

                  I read in my 1968 parts book that there were .005" over pistons and standard size. (in addition to .020 and .040 over pistons available.
                  Do I have some cylinders which were .005" over from the assembly line? The part numbers in my book are 3004524 and 3004525 (.005 O/S).
                  Can anyone help out with a 1969 Parts book?
                  This is a 9-17-68 casting block for a 1969 Charger 383 2Bbl.
                   
                  Last edited: Jul 6, 2019
                • roadrunnerh

                  roadrunnerh Well-Known Member

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                  More Pics!
                  383 bare block.JPG
                  383 stamp pad.JPG
                  383 cylinder wall.JPG
                  VIN of 69 Charger
                  383 VIN.JPG
                   
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                  • RustyRatRod

                    RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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                    I'd dingle ball hone that one and let it rip. Now......here's food for thought. I know this is a budget build, BUT, I would consider having the block decked. Normally, it runs between 150-200 bucks. These old blocks were almost always crooked and tall. Getting it straight and the decks parallel to the crank center line makes for a good foundation. How far up in the bore did the pistons come up at TDC? If it's close enough to zero deck height the block, I would do it. The cost for decking is the same regardless. That could actually add a little power and possibly give some resistance to detonation. Lastly, I would "look" at having the heads milled, just enough to assure good gasket sealing. Have you inspected the valve guides and seats yet? There's "not much room" for error there. That's another corner "I'd not cut" if it needs guides and seats. Expensive, I know, but you don't want crappy heads.
                     
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                    • roadrunnerh

                      roadrunnerh Well-Known Member

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                      More cylinder walls....
                      cylinders.JPG

                      All measurements taken after cylinder cleanup.
                       
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                      • RustyRatRod

                        RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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                        • RustyRatRod

                          RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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                          • roadrunnerh

                            roadrunnerh Well-Known Member

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                            Rusty, thanks man! I have not gotten to the heads. They are the 906 stock heads. I do plan on doing them myself, but will definitely take these to the machine shop. Still focusing on the block - lots more cleaning!
                             
                          • roadrunnerh

                            roadrunnerh Well-Known Member

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                          • RustyRatRod

                            RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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                            Those are good heads.......but man those dished pistolas. lol That was an 8.5:1 motor at best, I don't care what "the book" says. Still though, if your funds won't allow for those flat tops I posted, all is not lost. Low compression motors can be made to run.
                             
                            Last edited: Jul 6, 2019
                          • roadrunnerh

                            roadrunnerh Well-Known Member

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                            I used these tools MADE IN USA!
                            Bare block tools.JPG
                             
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                            • Murray

                              Murray FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                              You are coming along nicely. I don't hear people talk about it anymore, but in the old days on a budget build we would "knurle" the pistons to tighten them in the bores. I agree with the advice to spend a little money on the heads/guides, as as this can lead to oil consumption problems.
                               
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                              • rumblefish360

                                rumblefish360 So close, yet so far away FABO Gold Member

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                                Go with the aluminum intake if you can. Any place you can save weight during this rebuild will pay dividends later.
                                 
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                                • j par

                                  j par Well-hung Member

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                                  Hold to your goal and you will hold to your budget...
                                  Without question all the things that people are suggesting beyond that are going to improve things across the board in the long run and some even in the short run. But you're opening is wanting to just rebuild an engine kind of left it open? you simply stated that you wanted to rebuild an engine on your own. Do you intend to race it? Put it in a car and cruise it? You know those kinds of things or just get it running have it nice and clean and doing okay and sell it on...
                                   
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                                  • roadrunnerh

                                    roadrunnerh Well-Known Member

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                                    Thanks for all the feedback fellas!
                                    The goal is to install this engine in my 75 Scamp. I want a cruiser, not a drag racer. Currently, she has a /6 and I want much more power. More power = 250 HP and up. A trip to the drag strip once in a blue moon should yield 14.40's - I would be very happy.

                                    I'm using Schumaker mounts, 68/69 factory hp exhaust manifolds (NO HEADERS), Column shift,
                                    The car already has a factory A Body 8.75 with 3.23 gears I installed a couple years ago with this build in mind. I also have a 727 out of a '68 Imperial sitting on the shelf. I have a B-body length drive shaft which I will have shortened and balanced.
                                     
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