My First 318 Rebuild

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Mic the stems, I pitch them with + .0005 wear or if the margins are too thin. Then it comes down to just getting a clean seat on the valve, back cut for extra credit. Usually only the exhaust are worn too much on virgin heads, but your heads have been redone, so you might be good.
 
66fs said:
Mic the stems, I pitch them with + .0005 wear or if the margins are too thin. Then it comes down to just getting a clean seat on the valve, back cut for extra credit. Usually only the exhaust are worn too much on virgin heads, but your heads have been redone, so you might be good.
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You're saying the heads have been redone because they have bronze guides? I know for sure the heads have been off the engine, they used different head gaskets (not sure why). Just trying to track the logic with the automotive archaeology
 
I'll keep it on the topic of cylinder heads, I'm assuming surface finish on the valves is incredibly important and if there's any signs of wear or deterioration of that finish I need new valves?
 
Mainly the stems wear. OEM and premium valves were usually chrome plated. You can polish the stems and the non combustion chamber side of the valve with a drill press, wd-40, and 600 wet or dry sandpaper. There is thickness limit on the margin of the valve also. As long as the stems are within spec and you can get a good face with enough margin left, the valve should be good to go.
 
66fs said:
Mainly the stems wear. OEM and premium valves were usually chrome plated. You can polish the stems and the non combustion chamber side of the valve with a drill press, wd-40, and 600 wet or dry sandpaper. There is thickness limit on the margin of the valve also. As long as the stems are within spec and you can get a good face with enough margin left, the valve should be good to go.
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So if I'm within a half thou on the valve diameter after polishing then I should be good to keep these valves? And for margin limit, you mean the amount of material you can take off the chromed surface?
 
I'm not done with the heads, but I'm getting to the point where I might just have a shop go through them and put new guides and such in, it seems like that's a place where budget should be higher.
Anyways on to the bottom end, I cleaned up the conrods and got 3 that came out brown. It doesn't look like rust and it doesn't flake off or anything. I know nothing about the history of this engine so I'm not sure what I'm looking at.
Pictured is the one "normal color" one and the three brown ones

IMG_20220407_165242729.jpg
 
68Valiant225 said:
I'm not done with the heads, but I'm getting to the point where I might just have a shop go through them and put new guides and such in, it seems like that's a place where budget should be higher.
Anyways on to the bottom end, I cleaned up the conrods and got 3 that came out brown. It doesn't look like rust and it doesn't flake off or anything. I know nothing about the history of this engine so I'm not sure what I'm looking at.
Pictured is the one "normal color" one and the three brown ones...
Click to expand...

They are copper plated to "bandaid" their use in a motor. I would not use them. What forging# and do they have bushed small ends? I may have some extras.
 
66fs said:
They are copper plated to "bandaid" their use in a motor. I would not use them. What forging# and do they have bushed small ends? I may have some extras.
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2406782
Here's a picture of the top end of the copper rod, I think it's bushed.
Also just to iterate, I know nothing about the history of this engine, i don't even know if it ran when it was taken apart

IMG_20220414_214201371_HDR.jpg
 
68Valiant225 said:
2406782
Here's a picture of the top end of the copper rod, I think it's bushed.
Also just to iterate, I know nothing about the history of this engine, i don't even know if it ran when it was taken apart

View attachment 1715907895
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Rods like that have collectively billions and billions of miles on them. I personally have never seen one fail.

The issue is the cost to rebuild them. For less money you can buy a better rod with cap screws and better metallurgy.

If you are set on using those rods, make sure the holes are the correct sizes and send it. They’ll be fine.
 
Rat Bastid said:
Rods like that have collectively billions and billions of miles on them. I personally have never seen one fail.

The issue is the cost to rebuild them. For less money you can buy a better rod with cap screws and better metallurgy.

If you are set on using those rods, make sure the holes are the correct sizes and send it. They’ll be fine.
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I'm not set on using these rods. Right now they're the most convenient, but like I said, I know nothing about them, I will measure them next week. So I'm still not clear on what causes rods to be copper coated, I poked around on the Internet yesterday and didn't find any satisfactory answers. If I understand why the rods are coated it'll make it easier to make a decision on what to do next.

I do have access to the motor that came out of the car, it's a short block that I was saving for later to clean and go through. But I have a set of 8 rods that I've run and know some of the history of.
I like the idea of keeping sets of rods together, and I'm in favor of using what I have right now, but am not stuck on that. I did but arp bolts to help the rods out a little bit
 
68Valiant225 said:
I'm not done with the heads, but I'm getting to the point where I might just have a shop go through them and put new guides and such in, it seems like that's a place where budget should be higher.
Anyways on to the bottom end, I cleaned up the conrods and got 3 that came out brown. It doesn't look like rust and it doesn't flake off or anything. I know nothing about the history of this engine so I'm not sure what I'm looking at.
Pictured is the one "normal color" one and the three brown ones

View attachment 1715906937
Click to expand...

I believe the bronze plating means that the con rod has been reworked.

That is a strange set of con rods. A LOT of weight has been removed from the small end of three of them. But not the fourth one. Could be a big balancing problem. Steel crank motor?
 
pt70 said:
I believe the bronze plating means that the con rod has been reworked.

That is a strange set of con rods. A LOT of weight has been removed from the small end of three of them. But not the fourth one. Could be a big balancing problem. Steel crank motor?
Click to expand...
Yeah, it's a cast crank.
 
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