my Low dollar 318 hop-up project

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[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9iU9kG4v-U"]Home porting is finished .... Mopar 318 - YouTube[/ame]
 
Hopefully step by step video tutorials is the future on this site, like it keep up the good work. I bet your Inspiring a lot people to grab another 20-40 hp out of there combo instead of just slapping on stock heads.
 
Total cost so far:
60.00 - intake
30.00 - porting heads and cleaning them
Leaving me with 409 dollars left for the build.

Just thought I'd throw out a couple of pictures of valve cleaning......
Intakes clean up in about 45 seconds, and look great!!! They usually do....
Exhaust take the beating, and they take about 8-10 minutes to clean up. The face is pitted. Hopefully the exhaust clean up with the lapping, because I don't want to spend any money on the valves......

View attachment DSCI2470.jpg

View attachment DSCI2471.jpg
 
Gonna polish the stems? A few free ponies in slicking up friction surfaces.And no,Im not claiming a few h.p just with polished valve stems,Im saying slicking everything that rubs..some more to be had with oil system slicking etc..Sorry I know it's not porting,but kinda fits with the low $$ h.p tricks a guy could do at home.
 
Looks like you opened yours up on the intake side much more than what I did. You need it, cause there is no air in Colo Springs, I've been there a few times....... LOL

You did nice work, although I personally don't like to go that thin around the valve guide on a street car, always worry if it should form a slight crack that would lead to a "chip" or "flake", it would be going straight into you cylinder.

I actually considered buying that car when you had if for sale here a while back, but since bought another Duster...
 
Got a package from Summit, tell ya what I got!

Gasket Kit FEL-KS2114 - Fel-pro gaskets (which I like) and every gasket is included for the entire engine - EVERYTHING! Valve seals, rear main seal, you name it, it's in there. All for 57.97. You cannot come close to this price buying the individual sets at your local parts store.

EDL - 5877 - These valve springs are almost a direct replacement for a factory 340.
340 springs - 90/230
Eddys 5877 - 90/240
Low cost of 47.77 and a brand name! Best of all, designed to work with factory retainers and all !!!!!!!
Although I haven't tried the Eddy's version yet, the factory 340 spring (when new) will easily turn mildly built small blocks to 6000 rpm's, or a hair more. I don't like to "over spring" any engine. Adds friction to and wear to the valve train. I figured the factory 318 springs, having 120,*** miles and being 40 years old could use a "fresh'n up", and these should do the trick.
As you all know, spend over 100 bucks and shipping is free with summit. My total was 105.74, so free shipping and we'll say 106.00 against the budget.

View attachment DSCN0278[1].jpg
 
60.00 - intake
30.00 - porting heads and cleaning
58.00 - All gaskets (including more than this project will require)
48.00 - Eddy valve springs

Total spent so far: 196.00

Left in the budget: 303.00 dollars left
 
318willrun said:
Just thought I'd throw out a couple of pictures of valve cleaning......
Intakes clean up in about 45 seconds, and look great!!! They usually do....
Exhaust take the beating, and they take about 8-10 minutes to clean up. The face is pitted. Hopefully the exhaust clean up with the lapping, because I don't want to spend any money on the valves......
Click to expand...
Questions on the valve cleanup:
- What is the abrasive wheel on the bench grinder yo are using there?
- What are you doing about guide measurements and valve stem diameters?

BTW, if a valve slips and hangs up between the wheel and frame in this process, it can bend the stem juuust enough to not seal well... ask me how I know.... so be careful here.
 
its nice to see some old school build info, helps the young guy, and it also shows the MASSES that every build does not have to be high dollar, ultimate, stroker this and that!! ha
this to me is what is fun in our hobby! after this type build, then later, if desire and $$ is there for that high $$, stroker, ultimate build, then.....

hotrodding is taking available factory parts, putting some elbow grease in them, and some thought and knowledge, and building a better mousetrap ( or rat traps)?? yep.
 
nm9stheham said:
Questions on the valve cleanup:
- What is the abrasive wheel on the bench grinder yo are using there?
- What are you doing about guide measurements and valve stem diameters?

BTW, if a valve slips and hangs up between the wheel and frame in this process, it can bend the stem juuust enough to not seal well... ask me how I know.... so be careful here.
Click to expand...

This is just a typical bench grinder with a wire wheel on one side. I do not go up and down the stem, but only remove the build-up around the valve. I've cleaned many valves this way, never an issue.
As for the stem/guide, I will only measure the amount of "slack", or "slop" the valve has in the guide with the valve off the seat about 3/4 inch - 1 inch. No way does my budget warrant new valves and guides.... Gotta make due, gotta make due!

Barbee6043 - Agreed !!
 
318willrun said:
As for the stem/guide, I will only measure the amount of "slack", or "slop" the valve has in the guide with the valve off the seat about 3/4 inch - 1 inch. No way does my budget warrant new valves and guides.... Gotta make due, gotta make due!
Click to expand...
All understood .... and I have done the same on budget race engine rebuilds: pull the valve out a way, wobble it, and see what I get. Do you, or anyone, have a rule of thumb on what can be 'gotten away with' on a budget build for valve-guide clearance or 'wobble', or what has worked OK? How much 'wobble' in the valve with it 3/4" out is OK? If it wobbled 1/32" (which is a LOT), is it time to toss the budget heads, or knurl the guides, or ????

I'm not trying to derail the process here, but it would be important IMO to give budget builders a limit to work to on valve-to-guide clearance, and what can you get away with on any clearance: piston-bore, rod or main bearings, etc. It is like the FSM giving new and service limits. A reasonable limit on valve-to-guide clearance has to exist in your mind and build work, or it's a wasted effort and will result in unhappy engine performance.
 
nm9stheham said:
All understood .... and I have done the same on budget race engine rebuilds: pull the valve out a way, wobble it, and see what I get. Do you, or anyone, have a rule of thumb on what can be 'gotten away with' on a budget build for valve-guide clearance or 'wobble', or what has worked OK? How much 'wobble' in the valve with it 3/4" out is OK? If it wobbled 1/32" (which is a LOT), is it time to toss the budget heads, or knurl the guides, or ????

I'm not trying to derail the process here, but it would be important IMO to give budget builders a limit to work to on valve-to-guide clearance, and what can you get away with on any clearance: piston-bore, rod or main bearings, etc. It is like the FSM giving new and service limits. A reasonable limit on valve-to-guide clearance has to exist in your mind and build work, or it's a wasted effort and will result in unhappy engine performance.
Click to expand...

FSM has .017 with rocking method with dial indicator. After you do a few you get the feel for it. I check them at max valve lift, say .500 for example. You can also check stem wear with a mic or calipers on the wear areas to see if the stem is out of whack with the others. The exhaust guides take a beating more than the intakes. A non concentric valve seat is a sure sign of a sloppy guide to stem tolerance.
 
nm9stheham - I will talk about valve guide "slop" when I post a video on valve lapping. Anything that's "fair", I'll have to use. Good and Great are even better...

Joec - I'll have to see what the budget allows. Still need a carb and timing chain. I do know what cam would be my 1st pick, but it doesn't look as if it's going to happen. I'm nervous about my exhaust valves cleaning up. If I put money into the exhaust valves, it will be a blow to this build. But, the valves MUST seal at all cost, or performance and gas mileage will be all but shot....
 
318willrun said:
nm9stheham - I will talk about valve guide "slop" when I post a video on valve lapping. Anything that's "fair", I'll have to use. Good and Great are even better...

Joec - I'll have to see what the budget allows. Still need a carb and timing chain. I do know what cam would be my 1st pick, but it doesn't look as if it's going to happen. I'm nervous about my exhaust valves cleaning up. If I put money into the exhaust valves, it will be a blow to this build. But, the valves MUST seal at all cost, or performance and gas mileage will be all but shot....
Click to expand...

I pay around $100 for just seat and valve cleanup job. When I take them in the heads are clean, just valves in the holes. I then set spring height etc. at home. Just a thought to save some coin.
 
I didn't get a chance last weekend to start on my heads....still playing with my wiring O:)

I'm hoping to get going on them THIS weekend. ......!

I'll post photos if i make any progress! !!!!

Jeff
 
mderoy340 said:
I pay around $100 for just seat and valve cleanup job. When I take them in the heads are clean, just valves in the holes. I then set spring height etc. at home. Just a thought to save some coin.
Click to expand...

that's 100 I can't spend and stay in budget AND meet my goal. I need to hit high 14's at around 93 mph and get 17 mpg (target is a '73 340 Duster) starting with a 318 2bbl with dual exhaust, stock tranny, 2.76 gears and a budget of 499.00 into the 318 2bbl (this includes all cost, even gaskets, and stones that were used to port, and even including the cost of the car wash). With just a hair over 300 left, and still needing a carb, timing chain, and a step up in camshaft, there is no "100" left for valves/seats.... But I love the challenge! I set the rules to make it a difficult build, but a build that newbies on a strict, very low budget can follow and "pep up" that 318 2bbl in their car.

MrJLR - good luck with your heads!! :cheers:
 
Ok...well here's what I'm starting with. ..after this I won't clutter your thread with my pictures. ..I'll start another thread....just wanted to show you what I'm starting with ...

Stock 318 heads....1974 I believe







Carbide bits...free from work!



Spring compressor - free from a friend



Safety equipment. .....



I'll keep you posted. .....

Jeff

Edit - free horsepower is one of my favorite things! !!!!
 
LOL.... I love it MrJLR !!! This is what makes my money worth it.... And if your heads are '74, that is good because they will have hardened seats. Your heads look a lot cleaner to start with than what mine did. Go slow, you can always take more off later, but ya can't put it back on once ya take it off....

Cheering for ya, Jeff! And post away, it may inspire someone else to rip into theirs....
 
318willrun said:
LOL.... I love it MrJLR !!! This is what makes my money worth it.... And if your heads are '74, that is good because they will have hardened seats. Your heads look a lot cleaner to start with than what mine did. Go slow, you can always take more off later, but ya can't put it back on once ya take it off....

Cheering for ya, Jeff! And post away, it may inspire someone else to rip into theirs....
Click to expand...

Before



During



After



Jeff
 
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