my Low dollar 318 hop-up project

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Are you going to clean the carbon build up out of the heat crossover center ports on the heads, or leave them plugged for denser mixture???
 
krazykuda said:
Are you going to clean the carbon build up out of the heat crossover center ports on the heads, or leave them plugged for denser mixture???
Click to expand...

Haven't totally decided, but may leave them plugged. It will make it a little more cold blooded, but hey, I need every 1/2 tenth I can get.......:glasses7:
 
318willrun said:
nm9stheham - I will talk about valve guide "slop" when I post a video on valve lapping. Anything that's "fair", I'll have to use. Good and Great are even better...
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Roger, that is all good sir. $499 is < half what I spent on a good /6 stock rebuild LOL so no $$ on valves is the way it's gotta be!
 
Ok, guys, another video on my lapping, and a couple of other topics coming up. I will apologize now for the poor camera work.

I did NOT finish my lapping/grinding, but just wanted to give a few pointers on how and options of what a person can use to get the job done. Again, some common tools found around the house.

oh, yeah, I threw a light coat of orange paint on the heads just to protect them from surface rust. I wiped the gasket surfaces with a rag with WD-40 on it.
 
I've got 1 head done! :blob:
I'd do the other head tomorrow but it's Superbowl Sunday!
I get a long weekend next week and I'll do that one and be ready to lap my valves!

:burnout:
 
R4Sedan said:
^^^^^^ Jeff pictures or it didn't happen, HAhA.
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I hosed them with high pressure water, blew them with compressed air, and soaked them with WD40. ....so that's why they look wet.....









I think they'll breath a LOT better now!
Not the prettiest, but it's my first time. ....
I believe it'll be very effective

Jeff
 
IF the valve seals are real soft and feel fairly new, you can re-use them. I would suggest new if you have any doubt, they are about 20.00 bucks for new Fel Pro's.

A lot of folks emphasize on keeping the order of the valves. It's not a bad suggestion at all, but I've mixed them up and never been penalized for it.... Keeping them in order is the best way...
 
MrJLR said:
A couple of questions. ...
Is it OK to reuse my valve guide seals?
I want the same valve back in the same hole - right? (I numbered them all)


Jeff
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I would recommend to replace them. You can tear them when removing them over the keeper grooves. Some seal kits some with a plastic "condom" to fit on the valve to get the seat over the grooves without damaging the seal.

I have some spare new seals if you need them. Let me know... 3 kinds...
 
P.S. Jeff - If you haven't bought the head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, or intake gaskets, I highly recommend buying the kit from summit that I bought, it will come with new valve seals also. Much cheaper than buying each set of gasket separately.

Yes, what Krazycuda said about making sure of NO RIPS from the valve keeper grooves should you try to re-use
 
I'll probably just get one of those complete sets.....
I need EVERY seal....rear main, timing cover, valve guild seals , freeze plugs.....EVERYTHING.
I don't tolerate leaks! !!

Recommend any set? That's really complete?

Jeff
 
MrJLR said:
I'll probably just get one of those complete sets.....
I need EVERY seal....rear main, timing cover, valve guild seals , freeze plugs.....EVERYTHING.
I don't tolerate leaks! !!

Recommend any set? That's really complete?

Jeff
Click to expand...

Post 111 (page 5). I listed the part number. All Fel Pro, every gasket/seal in the engine. 57 bucks.
 
Freeze plugs are not included in the gasket set, they are about $20 more
 
318willrun,you are making me wish I still had a 318 to play with.
 
Fun to watch someone work!

On the lighter valves..... the difference may be in the lighter valves having the 'dimples' in the valve head rather than being fully flat. Saves weight, but they will increase the combustion chamber volume by several cc's if both the intake and exhaust have the 'dimples'. (I recall measuring 2-3 cc's increase in a 273 chamber with the 'dimples' vs/ without.....)
 
nm9stheham said:
Fun to watch someone work!

On the lighter valves..... the difference may be in the lighter valves having the 'dimples' in the valve head rather than being fully flat. Saves weight, but they will increase the combustion chamber volume by several cc's if both the intake and exhaust have the 'dimples'. (I recall measuring 2-3 cc's increase in a 273 chamber with the 'dimples' vs/ without.....)
Click to expand...

You are correct on the dimples, however, the bigger valve is going to weigh more. 11 grams on the intake valve, and the intake valves had the dimples......

trust me, I'd take the bigger valves and ports, LOL, just trying to find any advantage against my target, the '73 340, and I had to reach a little, but I found something.... ha ha ha
 
Great thread thanks for posting.
Fyi to clean the valves what I did was put valve stem in a table top drill press and turned it on. Sprayed a little caeb cleaner on it. Then put a brass wire wheel in a hand held drill and cleaned with both drills on. Took a minute per valve.
The drill press keeps the valve turning so you never are in "one spot" too long and damage the valve.

Great thread!
 
4spdragtop said:
Great thread thanks for posting.
Fyi to clean the valves what I did was put valve stem in a table top drill press and turned it on. Sprayed a little caeb cleaner on it. Then put a brass wire wheel in a hand held drill and cleaned with both drills on. Took a minute per valve.
The drill press keeps the valve turning so you never are in "one spot" too long and damage the valve.

Great thread!
Click to expand...

That is a very good way to clean them, a nice tip! I don't have a table top drill press, so it wasn't an option for me......
 
Great thread 318Will and thanks for all the effort on the videos. I am learning a lot and this is making me rethink that I may just keep my 318.

Scott
 
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