My take on the oiling system crossover tube for the small block

Discussion in 'Small Block Mopar Engine' started by Jadaharabi, Oct 28, 2018.

  1. Jadaharabi

    Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    This is a combination of my thoughts and ideas taken from the Guitar Jones oiling system modifications thread.
    If you have some input that would help along these lines and to clarify some of the thinking you're more than welcome to post but if you think that you just need to post negative don't bother I'm not interested.
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2018
  2. Jadaharabi

    Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Problem loading pictures.
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2018
  3. Jadaharabi

    Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    [​IMG]
    Small Block Oiling System Modifications

    What I want to show you is the modifications that were talked about and used by the racers of the 70 and 80s. This one in particular was used when you needed to run a hydraulic lifter cam, it was called by some the “A&W Crossover".
    The crossover works by slowing the oil in the right main oil galley down so it will not over shoot the 90 degree passages to the number 2, 3, and 4 main bearings. The number 1 main passage was blocked on the right side. Then the crossover tube feeds the left side galley which then reverse feeds the number 1 main and cam bearing.
    This is basically how it was explained back in the day. No details or instructions, just how it worked and if you sent them your block they would do the mods for you for a price.
    What I am going to do is show and tell you how you can do this mod along with some others to make your SB Mopar live above 6500 rpm.

    Block Mods

    The blocks we are working with are the pre 88, basic 273, 318, 360 and the 68-73 340.

    By the way these mods also work on the Polyspherical 318 sometimes called the wide block or Y block by people that don't know any better. The Poly 318 is the same block as a 340 with the exception of the two big holes in the water jacket on the top of the deck. But you can plug these if you want to run wedge heads on that block. You can even bore it out to a 340 and with a cam and head swap it becomes a wedge instead of a Poly. Here is one for you. Take the Poly 318 cam, heads and intake and put them on a 360. Better yet bore the Poly out to 4” and put a 340 stroker crank into it for a 408 Poly sleeper. By the way I believe the 318 Poly used solid lifters so you don’t plug the right front passage or use the crossover tube on them.

    The oil passages from the filter mount to the right side main galley (passenger side) all get drilled to 1/2" id. You will need to remove all the plugs in the back of the block and in the filter mounting area. Don't forget the one in the passage below the oil pressure sending unit. I used a long pushrod to remove this one.
    You will find that these passages were step drilled at the factory so open them up all the way to the main galley. I used a 9" cobalt and a 12" black oxide 1/2 " bit for drilling these out.
    After drilling the passages use a bur or grinding stone to clean and radius the sharp corners inside where the passages meet .
    OK, so much for the easy part.
    Let’s work on the main bearing passages
    These were step drilled also by the factory. Using a 12" long 5/16 bit, drill number 2,3 and 4 main passages from where the main bearing is fed all the way into the right oil galley. Do NOT drill number 1, on the right side because it will be plugged. Number 5 is not fed by the main galley so it doesn't need drilled either.
    Drill the number 1 main passage on the left side to 5/16. It will be reverse fed by the crossover tube.

    Cam Oiling Changes

    Now is a good time to discuss the cam bearings and the feeding of the heads by the number 2 and number 4 bearing journals.
    The purposes of these mods are to keep the oil going to the bearings instead of blowing out at the cam journal.
    There are 2 ways to restrict the oil going to the cam bearing.
    The first is the hardest. You go into the oiling passage from the main bearing saddles. Tap the passage to 5/16-18 then drill a 1/8" hole in a set screw and Loctite it in place. This is done on number 1, 3 and 5. Number 2 and 4 are feeding the heads so we aren’t restricting them.

    The second way and the easiest is to restrict the oil by drilling a 1/8 hole in the cam bearings. Then install them so only the one hole lines up with the main bearing feed passage. This will block off the oiling to the heads. (Or just do #1,3 and 5 if you want to keep the stock head oiling.) The heads will be oiled by a mod to the passages in the lifter valley.
    By restricting the oil to the cam bearings we are holding back oil to be used by the crankshaft and rod bearings while still lubing the cam bearings but not the heads.




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    Last edited: Nov 4, 2018
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    • Jadaharabi

      Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Head Oiling Mod

      This is a mod that is used with adjustable rocker arms or stamp steel rockers.
      Drill into the passage in the lifter valley that feeds the cylinder heads with a 1/8" bit. Be sure you’r e inline with the main oil galley. Tap this hole for a #8 set screw. Now with a 3/32 bit, go thru that hole an drill into the main oil galley. After the block has been cleaned Loc tite the plugs into the outer tapped holes.
      The heads will now have full time oiling to the rocker arm shafts.
      Before the final cleaning is a good time to tap the oiling hole on the deck so if you go to the magnum heads later you can screw in a plug to block the oil off. The hole is already the right size to be tapped 5/16-18.


      A Couple more things on the oil passages

      While you are drilling out the main passages, the oil pump passages in the number 5 main cap need to be drilled to ½” also. On the 340 and 318 it is a straight shot but the 360 cap may have a bend in it . Being careful not to go thru the side, drill from both sides of the 360 cap then use a bur to smooth where they join in the middle. Debur the area where the oil pump mounts. Make sure the pump has a flat surface to mount to also.
      In the main saddle area remove about 1/4 inch in the place where the oiling passages come together under the bearing shell. Some builders then slot the hole in the bearing or add a second hole next to the first one. Use full groove bearings, in some cases you may have to buy 2 sets and use the upper halves from both to make a full groove set.
       
      Last edited: Oct 28, 2018
    • Jadaharabi

      Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Oil Pump Mods

      All these oil system mods will amount to a pile of scrap metal if you can't get enough oil thru the pump. Milodon and Moroso no longer make the high volume rotor pump kits. The hv pumps are still restricted by the 3/8 npt inlet. Then comes Kelvo and Canton oil pans, they use the bottom pump plate pickup for oil intake on their rear sump pans. These pans and pickups are great if you have the room, and aren't running in stock eliminator where a stock pan is required.
      What I am doing where a stock pan is needed, is to drill the inlet out to 1/2 npt on a HV pump.

      1540774599708-1641083044.jpg

      Then the 18650 Milodon pickup is fitted with a new 1/2 pipe thread end.

      1540774125524-1407778895.jpg 1540772740012661439236.jpg

      The left pickup is 1/2 npt inch and the middle and the right are 3/8 npt.

      While the pump is apart it gets the output passage drilled to 1/2 then deburred, cleaned and a new Hi Pressure bypass spring installed.
       
      Last edited: Oct 28, 2018
    • Jadaharabi

      Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      This a kevko #303-1 Chrysler Truck pickup tube for high volume pump


      1540769110923-1833118040.jpg


      1540769160481-63163098.jpg
       
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      • Jadaharabi

        Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        Picture of the no longer available Milidon rear sump pickup.

        1540770082593-234802957.jpg
         
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        • Hellrats

          Hellrats Still wrenching after all these years FABO Gold Member

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          Yes this mods works quite well. I've done it to many of my 360 blocks. When I ran a dirt late model it was the only way I could keep my engines alive because we ran so high of RPM for a long time. I have an engine for sale right now that it was done to. Not really needed for a street car engine but it sure wouldn't hurt anything.
           
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          • Hellrats

            Hellrats Still wrenching after all these years FABO Gold Member

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            I did use a dry sump system on that car but still needed to do the cross over tube and open the lube holes in the block like stated.
             
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            • prochargedmopar

              prochargedmopar Active Member

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              I found those on eBay for around $50.
              It says in one description the inner tube diameter is even bigger than the Factory installed street Hemi pickups.
              The pump has plenty of meat around the inlet to bore and tap oversize it appears.
              OD of drill required is .718 showing on Home depot website.

              Drill America 1/2 in. Carbon Steel NPT Pipe Tap and 23/32 in. High Speed Steel Drill Bit Set (2-Piece)-POU1/2NPTW/DRILL - The Home Depot

              These pickups from what I see are for stock depth oil pans. Yikes!!

              Will we run the sump dry with all this added flow?
              Will all I need to do is baffle the pan?
              What about cutting and extending the tube if I add a couple inches for more volume?
               
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              • Jadaharabi

                Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                Your going to have to tell more of what your setup is going to be. If you're using a stock pan then yes that's the pickup to use but if you're using a deeper pan then you're going to have to put a 3/4 national pipe thread end on a longer pick up.
                Have never heard of anybody running the oil sump dry with these modifications. If somebody did we would have heard about it over and over and over.
                And yes I highly recommend using a windage tray and baffles in your pan.
                Did all of my babbling above help where do I need to clarify?
                 
                Last edited: Oct 28, 2018
              • prochargedmopar

                prochargedmopar Active Member

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                Yes,
                gotcha.
                I just finished drilling out the main cap intersection where it turns coming from the pump.

                I will plug the #1 main journal supply that I drilled to 5/16 then open up the other side leading up to oil galley.

                Sure wish I could leave it as is and not have to install the crossover tube.

                I do not plan to restrict flow to the cam bearings.

                This engine is a 74’.
                It will be boosted with procharger AND later a turbo. Yes, Both.
                E85, Blowthrough, blah blah.

                Rpms will be held to within the 62-6500 range max.



                All these oiling mods are just for a little added insurance and for the fun of modifying.
                The crossover tube is too involved to be a fun project. hahahah

                The previous engine was a totally stock oiling system except high pressure spring mopar pump.
                Went 76k miles and the last 26k with Procharger.

                Only sign of wear was front 2 main bearings were showing copper.
                I thought it may have been from pulling on the snout with blower belt but then realized it was on the wrong side of shell to be that.
                 
              • Jadaharabi

                Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                If you're not going to restrict the oil going up to the cam bearings I would for sure do the crossover.

                What oil pan are you planning to use?

                Do not use a grooved camshaft you will partially starve the #2 and #4 mains.

                Let's not forget that that camshaft is partially Splash lubricated also.

                The passenger side that is the right side the number one passage down to the main you can plug it with a freeze plug up there at the front of the oil galley. That way you don't have to drill and tap a plug into the passage. It's a lot easier just use the freeze plug.
                 
                Last edited: Oct 28, 2018
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                • prochargedmopar

                  prochargedmopar Active Member

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                  Stopped in my tracks until I can buy a real tap/die set.
                  Ive had a full metric set for years and some small electricians taps that are name brand, work great.
                  Will get back to it after getting aome good ones along with some larger pipe taps.

                  In the mean time I can clean up all threads in the block.
                   
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                  • RustyRatRod

                    RustyRatRod Just another dumbass. FABO Gold Member

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                    Not being negative here, but I've always wondered about that intake valley crossover. Whether it was really needed. Reason I wonder is because I've seen some REALLY fast small blocks without it. Lord knows I ain't smart enough to know all the answers, but I've always wondered if all of those fancy modes were really necessary.
                     
                  • prochargedmopar

                    prochargedmopar Active Member

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                    Stock, DIY modified center sump oil pan.
                    Camshaft isn’t grooved.
                    So your saying knock out the front galley plug and then put one (smaller)behind it OR just drive the one further in and then put another on the outside?

                    I need to look at the oil flow diagram again.
                    I have a complete unopened brass core plug set if I need extras.
                     
                  • prochargedmopar

                    prochargedmopar Active Member

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                    The one guy in the other thread said the cam bearing clearance basically closes the oil feed holes up to the galley which effectively restricts them.
                    My biggest concern now is the pickup/flow to the pump.

                    60psi of pressure I would think covers a multitude of sin.
                    Kinda like 30psi of boost.

                    If I get the pipe taps and do the crossover once, then these mods will become commonplace in all my builds.

                    Free Insurance.
                     
                  • RustyRatRod

                    RustyRatRod Just another dumbass. FABO Gold Member

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                    That's a good way to look at it.
                     
                  • prochargedmopar

                    prochargedmopar Active Member

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                    Got this image off a competing site but it cements the fact that if everything is drilled to 1/2" and you don't remove the core plug to drill UP TO the tappet oil galley one might as well not do anything.

                    Well, except mod the pump pickup side and prevent the pickup itself from ever becoming uncovered.

                    small block chrysler oiling diagram mods - Google Search:
                     
                    Last edited: Oct 28, 2018
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                    • Jadaharabi

                      Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                      .
                      I agree with you there are some fast small blocks out there that do not have that crossover done to them. But I can also remember a lot of those very same cars sitting out beside or behind the shops because they put a rod out.
                      He's wanting to turbocharge and supercharge this motor so he's not going to have a standard need for oil pressure. He's going to be working it. So my thinking is he needs to go for all the gust o to have this thing live long and prosper.
                       
                    • RustyRatRod

                      RustyRatRod Just another dumbass. FABO Gold Member

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                      Whatever happened to guitarjones? His name doesn't even come up when I try to tag him. His oil mod thread was quite good.
                       
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                      • prochargedmopar

                        prochargedmopar Active Member

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                        Oh shoot,
                        I never gave it a thought when just feeding the blower as the one Im using is NOT self contained.
                        Also feeding a turbo will be two extra "bleeds" built into the system.
                        Hmmmmmm
                         
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                        • prochargedmopar

                          prochargedmopar Active Member

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                        • Jadaharabi

                          Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                          Do you have any of the Mopar small-block engine books? Such as how to build big inch small blocks or how to modify the small block Mopar or any of those old books?
                          Anyway in the guitar Jones thread it tells about driving the passenger side front plug into the oil Galley to block the line going down to the number one main.
                          By the way you do not need to be tapping any of those lines down there by the mains. By pushing that front plug-in on passenger side Galley you eliminate the need to tap and plug that line feeding the main there. I think somebody even mention that they put a second plug in front of the one that they pushed back. And somebody may have actually mentioned tapping that and threading a plug in it but I don't go that far on it.

                          Mopar Chrysler Plymouth Dodge 318 340 360 Milodon 18346 Oil Pump Pickup - - New | eBay

                          Maybe this pickup will work for you extending the pan.

                          If you have problems tapping out the oil pump I believe what I did was I went 1/64 bigger on the drill bit.
                          And I got my tap set from Harbor Freight.
                           
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                          • prochargedmopar

                            prochargedmopar Active Member

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                            Thanks for the clarification and the extra tool tips.
                            I decided to go with the first one you posted even though it was a few $ more expensive.

                            I will just baffle the stock pan for now.

                            Edit. Just finished watching the engine masters oil capacity episode.

                            Gained 30hp with 8qt pan only filled with 5 qts over the manufactures recommendations of 8.

                            Also gained 5hp over factory pan stock to one that was run 1 qt. low.

                            Guess I should have got the deeper sump pickup and ran 5 quarts in a modified 7qt pan. lol
                             
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