NE1 have the Body alignment dimension drawing

Mopar Body and Trim

  1. torredcuda

    torredcuda Well-Known Member

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    Just picked up a `71 Duster that was previously hit in the front and poorly repaired.I need the body dimensions to check it out before going to the frame shop.NE1 have a copy they could send me?

    [​IMG]

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  2. jos51700

    jos51700 Hemi Orange you glad it isn't a political avatar?

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    I think they'll want the axle straight before they begin, won't they?
     
  3. 66 Dartman

    66 Dartman Well-Known Member

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    Yep and those square wheels make for a bumpy ride LOL!!
     
  4. torredcuda

    torredcuda Well-Known Member

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    NE1 know where I can find the specs?I have one for my E-body `cuda but I don`t have an A-body FSM.
     
  5. Rocky_JS

    Rocky_JS 'cuda

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    here hope this helps.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    The above may be wrong, not sure. I don't have a manual that shows a Duster/ Demon I found one of Dart, and Valient, both were different
     
  7. torredcuda

    torredcuda Well-Known Member

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    Ok thanks,I`ll keep looking for a Duster/ Demon one to be sure.
     
  8. 1968FormulaS340

    1968FormulaS340 Well-Known Member

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    May want to have the front sheet metal handy before having any straightening done.

    On a modern car you can pull to spec and have everything fit 99% of the time, but you are also pulling to within a millimeter or two.

    Old cars, old spec sheets, wide production tolerances, best to pull and fit the parts, and pull some more and pull again until it is not only within spec but will also accept the panels without shimming the hell out of everything and still being left with bad gaps, like they were from the factory.
     
  9. Rocky_JS

    Rocky_JS 'cuda

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  10. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    I sure don't know. I finally found my (paper) 74 Dodge manual, they do not even mention Demon. They just show "V, L" lines and the drawing does NOT match the one posted above. I'm not familiar enough with body work to know


    Some of this may be in difference in methods? as the points are not exactly clear in the drawings. For example, in the posted drawing, the diagonal, 161.74, is listed as 158.89 in the '74 book

    In the posted lower diagram, the horizontal 44.85 and 59.4 are listed in the 74 book as 46.63 and 56.5
     
  11. 74DartSwinger360

    74DartSwinger360 The Brat Pack

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    Dart/Scamp/Valiant are 111" wheelbase and Duster/Demon/Dart Sport are 108" wheelbase the diagrams will be different accordingly
     
  12. Rocky_JS

    Rocky_JS 'cuda

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    The two link I last posted are not of a duster (looks like a chebby frame) is just a sample picture for what he was asking for.

    I am curious in the 74 manual. The front frame from the torsion bar frame mount forward are they the same? From there rearward I would imagine the wheel base will certainly make a difference.

    I would say probably best for him since he's diving in that big, may as well spring for the factory shop manuals either paper or download it if in budget.


     
  13. torredcuda

    torredcuda Well-Known Member

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    No Demon in `74,became the Dart Sport which should be the same as the Duster.
     
  14. torredcuda

    torredcuda Well-Known Member

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    • Like Like x 1
    • DaveBonds

      DaveBonds Garage Trash

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      Wheelbase and roof dims will not matter, front end will not change where that damage is (cowl). All '67 up dims are the same, where it matters. K frames change, but the bolts hit the same spots.

      The dimensions on that diagram are the same as Mitchell catalog.

      Bring the fenders, grille support, lower grille filler and the hood.

      For what it's worth, gfs Scamp was not hit, was never painted or taken apart. I took ALL of the bolt on sheet metal off and had to do a reasonable amount of adjusting. I ended up having to cut more metal from the decklid hinge slot to get it to come forward, even with the quarters... I had to pinch the quarter panel that was welded on a touch flat, at the top of the driver's door, so the arch of the concave was the same... the hood was 1/4" off from gap at the cowl. I ended up taking some massive factory shims out of the driver door hinges, after fixing the hood to cowl issue that let me move the driver's fender in, in turn, the door. Everything shuts and latches beautiful now and the glass seals, too. Imagine that.

      These cars never fit together right, bone stock. A lot of them got door shims when they didn't need it, due to sloppy hood hinges that just needed a quick shove one way or another. I saw six A bodies at the last show with huge door to cowl gaps, because of this. I don't know why they did that, but after correcting it on the Scamp, I noticed a lot of A bodies with this inherent problem. Glass to weatherstrip on those cars looked iffy, because of the shims.

      Make it fit the panels you have. No two of them are the same.
       
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