Need a fix for this:

[mopower440]

The master cylinder in my big block dart is TOO close to the headers for my liking. It has to be boiling the fluid. What can I do to remedy this? Is there a shield made for this issue or anything? I know they have the offset adapter deal but im not using the newer 2 bolt master cylinder being I have manual disk brakes with the old Kelsey hayes setup..

 

[oldkimmer]

I believe there is a shield or u could make 1. I have an adaptor if u decide u need/want 1. Ur inbox is full. Message me. Kim

 

[KosmicKuda]

There are after market pre-made shields available that use the existing lower MC studs/nuts to attach.

Maybe Mancini Racing or AR Engineering?

 

[mygasser]

you could wrap the headers, if only in the immediate area of the master cylinder.
neil.

 

[RustyRatRod]

The boiling point of DOT3 fluid is 401*F. Get an infrared gun and shoot the master cylinder and see what it is. It might surprise you. Any space between at all is a good thing as it allows air flow.

 

[valiantwagonguy]

DOT 5 has the highest boil point here is a chart. https://nasaspeed.news/wp-content/u...luid-Comparison-Boiling-Points-mfg-stated.pdf
A shield and the fluid with the highest boil point should take care of your fears.

 

[RustyRatRod]

DOT 5 has the highest boil point here is a chart. https://nasaspeed.news/wp-content/u...luid-Comparison-Boiling-Points-mfg-stated.pdf
A shield and the fluid with the highest boil point should take care of your fears.

Well sure, but it cannot be mixed with 3 or 4 so I didn't mention it. He would need to flush his entire system and probably replace things to run DOT5 from 3 or 4, so that would get expensive.

 

[d55dave]

Looks fairly standard for a 440 in an a body with hooker fenderwells. There are lots running around like that with no issues. If it concerns you make a shield and / or wrap the header as suggested.

 

[Mr. Sinister]

I think you can modify a power booster mount to raise the master higher away from the header. I havent done this but believe it is a possible cure.

 

[oldkimmer]

My car had fenderwell headers for 15 years and not a problem with heat at the master cylinder. It gets hotter than I like but it always stops good. Kim

 

[thesiren74]

I tried one of those plates when i had those headers, it wouldn't bolt on correctly so only used 1 bolt hole, you could make one that fits better.

 

[383Scampman]

AREngineering sells a m.c. heat shield . Get a heat gun and verify . Wrap it in heat shield fabric , looks aweful but works .

 

[thesiren74]

This is what mine used to look like untill the headers rotted out.

 

[Jim Lusk]

35,000 miles on this setup and never boiled brake fluid. Driven in temps over 100 and have put 600 miles on the car in a weekend. Yes, it's an iron manifold, but it's still very close to the master.

 

[Fgill]

35,000 miles on this setup and never boiled brake fluid. Driven in temps over 100 and have put 600 miles on the car in a weekend. Yes, it's an iron manifold, but it's still very close to the master.View attachment 1715317872

are they touching? dang thats close. id be worried about motor mount flex evetually wearing out the MC mount studs or similar.

 

[famous bob]

I tried one of those plates when i had those headers, it wouldn't bolt on correctly so only used 1 bolt hole, you could make one that fits better.

I bought a 1/2" thick , offset adapter off ebay some yrs back, (was about 1/2 the going price), bolted up to the body, and took the 87 diplomat aluminum master cyl perfectly . All I had to do was make the push rod for it a 1/2" longer , works fine and looks fine----------no shield needed.

 

[abodyjoe]

I bought a 1/2" thick , offset adapter off ebay some yrs back, (was about 1/2 the going price), bolted up to the body, and took the 87 diplomat aluminum master cyl perfectly . All I had to do was make the push rod for it a 1/2" longer , works fine and looks fine----------no shield needed.

with the right adapter and master cyl you don't even have to lengthen the push rod..

 

[abodyjoe]

The master cylinder in my big block dart is TOO close to the headers for my liking. It has to be boiling the fluid. What can I do to remedy this? Is there a shield made for this issue or anything? I know they have the offset adapter deal but im not using the newer 2 bolt master cylinder being I have manual disk brakes with the old Kelsey hayes setup..View attachment 1715317592

heat shield and DOT 5. not hard to convert to DOT 5. just flush with well with alcohol and refill with DOT 5.. that voltage reg plug looks close enough to melt too..

 

[abodyjoe]

no shock?

 

[mopower440]

heat shield and DOT 5. not hard to convert to DOT 5. just flush with well with alcohol and refill with DOT 5.. that voltage reg plug looks close enough to melt too..

already using DOT5..what do you mean by 'no shock'? Do they sell a heat shield specifically for a BB A-body with fenderwell headers that bolts right up?

 

[abodyjoe]

There’s no shock in the hole in that picture.


Don’t think there is a specific bb abody heat shield but they do sell them for the master cyl. Mancini maybe?

Though looking at that pic there might not be enough room for a heat shield.

 

[valiantwagonguy]

Well sure, but it cannot be mixed with 3 or 4 so I didn't mention it. He would need to flush his entire system and probably replace things to run DOT5 from 3 or 4, so that would get expensive.

Well,playing with cars is expensive. But on the positive side changing over to DOT 5 will save you money in the long run.I have been using it in all my cars since the mid 90's and never had any kind of rust issues inside any of the wheel cylinders or masters since .So yes,it costs 25 bucks a QT but that's it . I ran it in my wife's Valiant that she used for commuting to work and never changed it or added a drop to it in the 13 years she drove that thing and when I parted it out the insides of the wheel cylinders were clean and shiny not all full of crap like with DOT 3 . You get what you pay for.

 

[famous bob]

with the right adapter and master cyl you don't even have to lengthen the push rod..

Curious, if u move the master cyl. out 1/2'' , "or any amount" , why would a stock short brake pushrod work/ Looks like it would be too short and put the pedal to close to the floor to start with !
Was hard to pass up an offset adapter that was black anodized and fir perfectly, for 20 something dollars--------

 

[abodyjoe]

Curious, if u move the master cyl. out 1/2'' , "or any amount" , why would a stock short brake pushrod work/ Looks like it would be too short and put the pedal to close to the floor to start with !
Was hard to pass up an offset adapter that was black anodized and fir perfectly, for 20 something dollars--------

because the right 2 bolt master cyl isn't drilled as deep. its drilled shallow enough to make up for the adapter plate perfectly. have one on our dart.

if you had to lengthen the rod then it didn't fit perfectly.

 

[abodyjoe]

i bought mine from RMS but i think this is what it is..

Master cylinder adapter, no studs | AR Engineering

Adapter to install the late model aluminum master cylinder onto Mopar vehicles which have four mounting studs on the firewall. On the front side there are two pressed in studs which hold the new aluminum master cylinder in place. A standard manual brake pushrod will work with this adapter, or an adjustable pushrod can be ordered from vendors such as DoctorDiff or Mancini Racing.