Need help NON mopar 1967 Pontiac Lemans 326

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RustyRatRod said:
We've all tried to explain to him several times that Pontiac did not make s 307. He ain't gettin it.
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The coolest things ,about Pontiac ? Everything pre somg was interchangeable. Other than the '66 -'67 valve change angles ( If I remember , correctly...), Engines were designed , to be killer torque monsters. Had a '72 Formula Firebird , that I traded a '69
Killer6 said:
Had an Indy 500 edition Firechicken in the shop not that long ago, 4.9 Litre Turbo, oddly configured intake ports. All I know is they were a snack for My Buddy's 400 T/A,
around '83 or so, not close. The turbo doesn't look any bigger than a T-type Buick, We had an early T-type Riviera, think it was an '83 I think.......
The Guy with the Catalina spun a rod brg. in the 400, so He dropped a 301 in to run around while he built a 455 for it, talk about ridin' a torque curve rollercoaster!!!
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Stuff a Well designed 455 in it , reconciliation of turbo designed..will make life FUN. Now ,those pesky smog laws.
 
Tried to find the article online for a bit to post, but no luck, but I have an issue of Hi Performance Pontiac from a few Years back where they had a 400 that ran screwed
from day one. No power, pinged & occasional backfires, hard as hell to start sometimes hot. 40yrs this thing went until the current owner decided to give the engine a
complete redo, and wanted the crank turned down, they found that one of the crank throws was indexed wrong, I forget the exact amount, but it was ground like 12deg
ahead of the rest!!!
 
Google Jim Butler Car Craft 350 Pontiac builds. Old School ? ... Tony Nunzi , or Pete McCarthy.
 
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Going to be back working on the Pontiac in a couple weeks. These were the brand new plugs that were put in when the distributor was swapped out. I measured the gap (.045). Weird mark on the porcelain in above picture.
 
That might be a weird mark,but IMO,that's a cracked insulator. It might idle on that, but as soon as it has to work, it will cut out. I've seen that on a lot of cars; just replace it.
If there's one there's often more.
That's not a defect, there is something wrong in that hole. Take note of which cylinder it came from and see if it happens again. I've seen pre-ignition start that way. The next thing that can happen is the porcelain will shatter, and that stuff can wreck your engine. I suggest to back off the timing until you get to the why of it.
 
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Get a plug without a black shell.

That thing is pig rich at idle. If you listen carefully it may oink when you blip the throttle.












Ok....that was just uncalled for. I apologize. Seriously you need a different plug w/o the black shell and work on the tune up. If it's that fat all the way up you are giving up a fair bit of power and a huge bunch of drivability.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I liked it lol.
But what can you teach me about black shells?
Or are you just dissin the A/Cs in a Mopar?
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It's hard to see (especially in pictures) how much heat is in the plug. Depending on the manufacturer, the plating on the plug changes color depending on heat. NGK's don't read like a Champion, and neither read like an Autolite.

Since I've been reading Champion plugs since 1972 it's what I use. If I have to do the tune up, the first thing I do is screw in a set of Champions. If the customer doesn't like it, when I have it close I'll use what they want.

Actually, I worked with a guy who used NGK's in his blown alcohol car, so I'm fairly comfortable looking at blown alcohol NGK's.
 
It was hard to tell on all except one where the heat range was at (3rd one from the right). The one i could see looked like it was right at the bend but others looked like it was hot towards the tip.
 
skep419 said:
It was hard to tell on all except one where the heat range was at (3rd one from the right). The one i could see looked like it was right at the bend but others looked like it was hot towards the tip.
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That actually tells you initial and total timing, not actual load heat in the shell.


Edit: by the looks of the plug you held up, you are a bit short on total timing.
 
AJ/FormS said:
YR
Have you seen the video at post #22?
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Yep. It has issues for sure. I've seen a bad cap do weird things like that. I had a rotor fail about a year ago. The timing was moving. Couldn't figure it out. Finally I drove it and the rotor finally broke and let the spade move so far it wouldn't run at all.

I kept the rotor for educational purposes. But I did want to smash it's guts out.
 
yellow rose said:
Yep. It has issues for sure. I've seen a bad cap do weird things like that. I had a rotor fail about a year ago. The timing was moving. Couldn't figure it out. Finally I drove it and the rotor finally broke and let the spade move so far it wouldn't run at all.

I kept the rotor for educational purposes. But I did want to smash it's guts out.
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Going to attempt to fix the old distributor I broke like a dillweed.
 
I believe i was attempting to take it apart to turn it into an oil pump drive. Either way It was stupid to do because now we have nothing to test with.
 
Got it back together. Thought I had screwed it up beyond repair.

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Not sure what this screw is for.
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