Need schooling

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Blackhatguy

FABO Gold Member
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I am picking up an '82 Cordoba, 318 TBI. Where can I go to get some learning on how that system works, and what hop-ups I can get away with on it?
 
^^^^Agree! 1982 would most likely be an electronic feedback carb with a second-gen Lean Burn... performance mods while retaining that system are nil to none.
Most people remove it, rewire and go to the standard Mopar electronic ignition and carb/manifold.
 
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I’m curious if the factory EFI is present or if it’s been retrofitted with a newer (more reliable) system.
Congrats on the addition to your stable. Pics please
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Yeah, electronic feedback carb and LBII system.
The previous pictures above are '81-'83 Imperial ONLY, not Cordoba. The Imperial system was a short-lived attempt at EFI, which was so troublesome that the factory came up with a kit to retrofit the carb system (ala the Cordoba etc.) under warranty.
 
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I'm getting palpitations just looking at this.
Yeah, if memory serves (which ain't as reliable as it once was) it was a design from the French over at Rennault (remember that ill-fated cooperation?) and was kind of a patchwork hodgepodge of bizarre parts... It was intended to give Imperial a selling point vs. the competition, but in reality it probably just provided another nail in it's coffin.
 
Yeah, if memory serves (which ain't as reliable as it once was) it was a design from the French over at Rennault (remember that ill-fated cooperation?) and was kind of a patchwork hodgepodge of bizarre parts... It was intended to give Imperial a selling point vs. the competition, but in reality it probably just provided another nail in it's coffin.
Was that the system that would stall at an intersection due to unshielded electronics? I seem to recall that
 
Was that the system that would stall at an intersection due to unshielded electronics? I seem to recall that
It may have been- I honestly only ever saw one or two of those things, and they were in junkyards. I just remember the dealership mechanics (back when they were actual mechanics, not "Techs") having fits about them.
 
It may have been- I honestly only ever saw one or two of those things, and they were in junkyards. I just remember the dealership mechanics (back when they were actual mechanics, not "Techs") having fits about them.
There's a host of unfamiliar stuff inside that pie tin! No wonder they wanted to hide it
 
I knew I should have opened that lid before I opened my mouth... What in unholy tarnation is all that nonsense? Though that does simplify matters.. if it's already carbureted, then I presume it's easier to throw a different carburetor on it. My next concern at this point is finding out for sure what kind of transmission it's got and making sure I can keep the lock up if it's got one. I'm pretty sure it doesn't have overdrive, but it was too low to the ground to find out for sure. On the plus side, it runs and drives and has 69,362 miles on it. That's that cliche Grandpa's Sunday car story. it's got a new alternator and radiator, but the fan belts still say mopar

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I knew I should have opened that lid before I opened my mouth... What in unholy tarnation is all that nonsense? Though that does simplify matters.. if it's already carbureted, then I presume it's easier to throw a different carburetor on it. My next concern at this point is finding out for sure what kind of transmission it's got and making sure I can keep the lock up if it's got one. I'm pretty sure it doesn't have overdrive, but it was too low to the ground to find out for sure. On the plus side, it runs and drives and has 69,362 miles on it. That's that cliche Grandpa's Sunday car story. it's got a new alternator and radiator, but the fan belts still say mopar

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Rich Corinthian Leather !
 
I knew I should have opened that lid before I opened my mouth... What in unholy tarnation is all that nonsense? Though that does simplify matters.. if it's already carbureted, then I presume it's easier to throw a different carburetor on it. My next concern at this point is finding out for sure what kind of transmission it's got and making sure I can keep the lock up if it's got one. I'm pretty sure it doesn't have overdrive, but it was too low to the ground to find out for sure. On the plus side, it runs and drives and has 69,362 miles on it. That's that cliche Grandpa's Sunday car story. it's got a new alternator and radiator, but the fan belts still say mopar

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Nice lookin' car, but here's the deal on converting from The Lean Burn system.
Disclaimer- It may not even be legal in your state, since it's considered "tampering" with your emissions system. Check your local laws.
It's not just a matter of putting on a different carb. A different carb (and intake manifold, I presume) will no longer give the computer the inputs it needs in order to control the ignition timing and advance. Yes, it has rudimentary ignition control, it's that box on the air cleaner horn. But you can't just take off the Lean Burn box, since the Lean Burn distributor has no vacuum advance of it's own, and the box is now missing to control spark.
What this adds up to is this:
Remove intake, carburetor and linkage; along with air cleaner/control box.
Remove distributor.
Install one of the many MP/DC type electronic conversion packages that are available. These kits include the distributor, coil, ballast, control box, and wiring. Yes, wiring. You'll need to get a FSM with wiring diagrams for your particular car and start tracing wires, splicing in the correct wires at the correct locations, and eliminating sections that are no longer needed. Basically, you just need to find power feeds for the Ignition start (NOT the starter circuit) and ignition run.
Install the carburetor/intake manifold of your choice. You will most likely need different throttle and transmission kickdown linkage bits and brackets to get everything hooked up. You'll also need to bend up some fuel lines and add a filter. Oil pressure and coolant sensors *should* remain the same IIRC, as well as the alternator VR circuit; I won't swear to the VR circuit but I'm pretty sure. Top it off with a new air cleaner of your choice.
Once you get the correct carb linkage on it, transmission (an A999, BTW) control should not be an issue- the lockup in those years is completely hydraulically controlled and will remain functional.
You didn't mention what performance mods you have in mind, but I also assume you'll want to get rid of the single exhaust and catalytic convertor. Did you want to just run duals from your stock manifolds? Guess what- you've got an air pump and air injection lines to contend with- you'll need to remove the pump, bracketry, and injection lines that go to the manifolds; and then plug or otherwise block off where the connections were in the manifolds. Well, I'll just put headers on it, you say? Once the manifolds are removed, there are eight air injection ports directly below the exhaust ports that need to be tapped and plugged with allen screws to prevent what would amount to an enormous exhaust leak.
All this will get you a four-barrel and free flowing exhaust, but still leaves you with the stock cam, which honestly isn't bad for a stocker; the LA roller cams (which is what you have) aren't horrible, just nothing special. (BTW, aftermarket cam blanks for these motors are a little hard to find at the moment- but not impossible).
Welcome to the rabbit hole.
Edit: I take back that bit about the roller lifters- you've got hydraulic flat tappets. Rollers didn't start until '84 or so, I believe. Sorry for the confusion.
 
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Nice lookin' car, but here's the deal on converting from The Lean Burn system.
Disclaimer- It may not even be legal in your state, since it's considered "tampering" with your emissions system. Check your local laws.
It's not just a matter of putting on a different carb. A different carb (and intake manifold, I presume) will no longer give the computer the inputs it needs in order to control the ignition timing and advance. Yes, it has rudimentary ignition control, it's that box on the air cleaner horn. But you can't just take off the Lean Burn box, since the Lean Burn distributor has no vacuum advance of it's own, and the box is now missing to control spark.
What this adds up to is this:
Remove intake, carburetor and linkage; along with air cleaner/control box.
Remove distributor.
Install one of the many MP/DC type electronic conversion packages that are available. These kits include the distributor, coil, ballast, control box, and wiring. Yes, wiring. You'll need to get a FSM with wiring diagrams for your particular car and start tracing wires, splicing in the correct wires at the correct locations, and eliminating sections that are no longer needed. Basically, you just need to find power feeds for the Ignition start (NOT the starter circuit) and ignition run.
Install the carburetor/intake manifold of your choice. You will most likely need different throttle and transmission kickdown linkage bits and brackets to get everything hooked up. You'll also need to bend up some fuel lines and add a filter. Oil pressure and coolant sensors *should* remain the same IIRC, as well as the alternator VR circuit; I won't swear to the VR circuit but I'm pretty sure. Top it off with a new air cleaner of your choice.
Once you get the correct carb linkage on it, transmission (an A999, BTW) control should not be an issue- the lockup in those years is completely hydraulically controlled and will remain functional.
You didn't mention what performance mods you have in mind, but I also assume you'll want to get rid of the single exhaust and catalytic convertor. Did you want to just run duals from your stock manifolds? Guess what- you've got an air pump and air injection lines to contend with- you'll need to remove the pump, bracketry, and injection lines that go to the manifolds; and then plug or otherwise block off where the connections were in the manifolds. Well, I'll just put headers on it, you say? Once the manifolds are removed, there are eight air injection ports directly below the exhaust ports that need to be tapped and plugged with allen screws to prevent what would amount to an enormous exhaust leak.
All this will get you a four-barrel and free flowing exhaust, but still leaves you with the stock cam, which honestly isn't bad for a stocker; the LA roller cams (which is what you have) aren't horrible, just nothing special. (BTW, aftermarket cam blanks for these motors are a little hard to find at the moment- but not impossible).
Welcome to the rabbit hole.
Edit: I take back that bit about the roller lifters- you've got hydraulic flat tappets. Rollers didn't start until '84 or so, I believe. Sorry for the confusion.
Que one of the HEI cheerleaders any time now.
 
Nice lookin' car, but here's the deal on converting from The Lean Burn system.
Disclaimer- It may not even be legal in your state, since it's considered "tampering" with your emissions system. Check your local laws.
It's not just a matter of putting on a different carb. A different carb (and intake manifold, I presume) will no longer give the computer the inputs it needs in order to control the ignition timing and advance. Yes, it has rudimentary ignition control, it's that box on the air cleaner horn. But you can't just take off the Lean Burn box, since the Lean Burn distributor has no vacuum advance of it's own, and the box is now missing to control spark.
What this adds up to is this:
Remove intake, carburetor and linkage; along with air cleaner/control box.
Remove distributor.
Install one of the many MP/DC type electronic conversion packages that are available. These kits include the distributor, coil, ballast, control box, and wiring. Yes, wiring. You'll need to get a FSM with wiring diagrams for your particular car and start tracing wires, splicing in the correct wires at the correct locations, and eliminating sections that are no longer needed. Basically, you just need to find power feeds for the Ignition start (NOT the starter circuit) and ignition run.
Install the carburetor/intake manifold of your choice. You will most likely need different throttle and transmission kickdown linkage bits and brackets to get everything hooked up. You'll also need to bend up some fuel lines and add a filter. Oil pressure and coolant sensors *should* remain the same IIRC, as well as the alternator VR circuit; I won't swear to the VR circuit but I'm pretty sure. Top it off with a new air cleaner of your choice.
Once you get the correct carb linkage on it, transmission (an A999, BTW) control should not be an issue- the lockup in those years is completely hydraulically controlled and will remain functional.
You didn't mention what performance mods you have in mind, but I also assume you'll want to get rid of the single exhaust and catalytic convertor. Did you want to just run duals from your stock manifolds? Guess what- you've got an air pump and air injection lines to contend with- you'll need to remove the pump, bracketry, and injection lines that go to the manifolds; and then plug or otherwise block off where the connections were in the manifolds. Well, I'll just put headers on it, you say? Once the manifolds are removed, there are eight air injection ports directly below the exhaust ports that need to be tapped and plugged with allen screws to prevent what would amount to an enormous exhaust leak.
All this will get you a four-barrel and free flowing exhaust, but still leaves you with the stock cam, which honestly isn't bad for a stocker; the LA roller cams (which is what you have) aren't horrible, just nothing special. (BTW, aftermarket cam blanks for these motors are a little hard to find at the moment- but not impossible).
Welcome to the rabbit hole.
Edit: I take back that bit about the roller lifters- you've got hydraulic flat tappets. Rollers didn't start until '84 or so, I believe. Sorry for the confusion.
That's a few more, but not a great many more steps than what I went through on my dart swapping out from the slant 6 to a magnum block with LA heads. Even did the vacuum advance small cap HEI distributor on that one as well. The transmission is welcome news though, now it's time to go on a parts hunt.
 
I haven't sat in the backseat yet, but the driver seat felt like sinking into a nice recliner. Going to have to put a cam and pipes on that car just to help keep me awake while sitting in it
 
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