Need some advice on some cylinder head gaskets

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At 10.5:1 and 10psi you will piss out any head gasket you use without studs unless it’s an MLS. Buy the MLS gaskets and wait for em or you’ll wish you did. You’re in e85 or race gas territory there no 91 octane unless you severely limit the timing and then the power goes away. The icon forged piston is a nice piston and you won’t have issues with it IF, and only if the rings are gapped wide for boost. If not tear the motor down and do it right or you be picking up parts. The 1008s can work if you have good machine work, ie flat decks and heads and you use studs. At that compression ratio you MUST be spot on with your tune up, any detonating at all will push out the gasket or pop a ring land. None of this is speculation. I’ve broken a lot of ****.
 
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Read 3B
 
TT5.9’s ring gap statement is correct and no small matter. If the gap is too tight the ring will destroy your piston under boost. It looks like the top ring is decently placed for boost, but you’re still facing possible catastrophic failure.
 
Well you said pro copper. I’m not sure what separates the titans from the pro copper but I’d still not mess with em. Run the MLS gaskets.
 
TT5.9mag said:
Well you said pro copper. I’m not sure what separates the titans from the pro copper but I’d still not mess with em. Run the MLS gaskets.
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Ah man. Good catch. I did order the wrong ones.
Back to square one lol
 
Rmoore said:
Yes Sir I agree ! But, since how I don’t know what pistons the op has and I don’t know whether he has a zero deck , and there is a whole host of other things that are unknown I was just letting the op know that running a thick head gasket can give him more quench then desired ! You may have built this engine and know exactly what the op’s motor is I don’t know ! The facts are though if the op has to much quench or if anyone has to much quench , that can lead to a detonation problem ! Didn’t know if the op or anyone else knew that or not ! Since the op is not doing a motor rebuild just pulling the heads off , this could be some good info to know !
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Ahhhh, I noticed something!
When you said more quench, you were meaning more area, more space between the piston and the head. That would be less quench or more quench area. More quench area could also be taken a different way as well. But instead of less room you ment more.

No worries my friend!!!!
I believe we’re on the same page.

naji408 said:
Ah man. Good catch. I did order the wrong ones.
Back to square one lol
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At least your avoiding a huge problem!
 
rumblefish360 said:
Ahhhh, I noticed something!
When you said more quench, you were meaning more area, more space between the piston and the head. That would be less quench or more quench area. More quench area could also be taken a different way as well. But instead of less room you ment more.

No worries my friend!!!!
I believe we’re on the same page.


At least your avoiding a huge problem!
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WOW !! SHAKING MY HEAD ON THAT ONE
 
I know folks that have ! They don't seem to have any problems ! None of them run any power adder either ! I like buying the correct gasket if at all possible !
 
What about using the copper shim like Garret suggested with the permatorque sd's? .020 copper shim with .054 permatorque sd
 
Run cometic MLS gaskets. They’ll make any thickness you want. Call em. Hate to keep saying it but it’s the right way to do it and you’ll probably end up redoing the engine if you don’t.
 
TT5.9mag said:
Run cometic MLS gaskets. They’ll make any thickness you want. Call em. Hate to keep saying it but it’s the right way to do it and you’ll probably end up redoing the engine if you don’t.
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I think you’re right. Now, Rmoore enlightened me about quench (something I knew nothing about, thanks to him I do now).
I’d like to go above .090 do bring me closer to 9:5-1 cr, but don’t know if that will increase engine detonation
 
If you don’t want to bite the bullet and get the heads cut for receiver grooves, then MLS is the only way to go here. You can get up to a .140 thick if you really want to drop the compression.
 
There is a window of quench where detonation becomes a concern, I think that range is like 050-090. Closer than that or further than that the engine has less of a chance to detonate. With the boosted stuff I’ve done it seems to make less of a difference where the quench is because the air/fuel charge is so dense. Especially so with an efficient intercooler. Usually it’s a non issue on boosted stuff because you are already octane rich due to needing good fuel when on boost, so off boost you have more than enough octane to keep it safe. Like I said in my first reply 10.5:1 and 10 psi puts you in e85 or 110 octane territory so you will not see detonation off boost with that fuel. On boost you’ll be backing the timing down pretty far to make optimal power and it will be well past peak NA torque so it’s less likely you’ll have a problem. If you’re not willing to run that quality of fuel you really need to consider a piston change.
 
That gasket gets you right on the edge of 9:1. I’d like to hear from @TT5.9mag and @turbovan on their thoughts. Cometic says you can run the gasket bore to within .001 of cylinder bore.
 
You know my thoughts. I’ve been preaching the cometics since the beginning of this thread. That .120 gasket and 9:1 comp would be where I’d set this engine up for street duty and not think about it ever again. If I were racing this car I’d keep it at 10.5:1 and run 116 fuel and lots of boost. Before I did any of that I would tear it down and gap the rings at 030 though. That’s step one.
 
I think changing the piston heads is another serious option.
I’m curious though. Naturally aspirated, this engine dyno’ed at 506 hp and 531 ft lbs of torque. Decreasing the compression ratio to about 8.5-9:1 what kind of power loss am I sacrificing?
My initial goal for this current project to get close to 850 hp to the flywheel.
Keep in mind that the only difference is the Holley 750 double pumper is gone now, and going multi-port injection, and obviously the piston heads if I were to change them.
 
850 is certainly doable but you’re going to run up against the strength limits of the block. I recommend not trying to find that limit. Don’t think of giving up power by limiting the compression ratio. Think of it as a safety margin to be able to run boost more efficiently. How bout we ask a couple of questions. What are your goals for this car? Race? Street? Trying to hit an ET target? Have you ever driven a car with 600-700-800hp? These are serious questions.
 
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