Need tech info on a Pacifica

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roughidle

roughidle

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I need electrical help with my wife's Pacifica.
History: 2006 Pacifica 3.5 awd base model.
No real issues with the car its got approx. 125,000 miles on it.
About a month ago she drove it to work...no problems. Came out from work to go home. The dash lights up like a Christmas tree, the tach keeps jumping to zero and back to where it should be and sometimes it just stays at zero, the radio won't power on, heater won't power on, wipers don't work, parking lights and head lights don't work, windows don't work, horn doesn't work, turn signals do work. Parking lock out doesn't disengage so I had to tear the console apart and manually move the lever so I could get it in gear. I drove the car home like that.

I tore the alternator out and had it tested...tested fine. Reinstalled it.

Tore the bottom of fuse box in engine compartment apart looking for corrosion, found none. Removed and reinstalled the power line from the battery just to make sure it was solid.

While I was on the pass side servicing the alternator I removed, cleaned, and reinstalled the ground strap from the front of the motor mount to the motor.

I jumped an 8 GA jumper from both the negative terminal of the battery to the strut tower bolt and from the positive post of the battery to the pos terminal at the alternator with no change in behavior.

If any of you have run across this in personal life or professional life and have seen a fix please let me know. I need to get her back in this car so I can stop driving my truck every day to work...
I've been nibbling at it over the past month after work....but I'm running out of ideas short of spending big monies which I simply don't have right now. Hell, I haven't even looked at my Barracuda since November....

Thanks if you can help...
 
It appears to be dash related. Try working there, the underhood work has not helped. Start by checking connectors and ground connections.

Service manuals are often found on ebay or down loaded.
 
Thanks Tyler. I read this and several other posts over the past few weeks on this just answer site as well as others that sound all too similar to my problem. However, not one of them I've found to have any definitive results. They usually end just as this one did with no conclusion...
 
They have had issues with the integrated power module wiring (IPM)

I copied and pasted a tech tip from our shop information called Identifix , which is info and known fixes collected from shops all around:

Customer Concern: Accessories are inoperative; no audio, compass, windows, wipers speedo, etc. BCM codes loss of communication.
Average Reported Mileage: 124336
Tests/Procedures: 1. Start the engine and remove the starter motor relay in the IPM. Check voltage in cavity # 85; there should be no voltage. If any voltage is present, the PCM will think the engine is in crank mode and will not energize the relay.

2. If voltage is present, cut wires that can leak voltage on circuit. Starting with pin #4 C4 from IPM circuit #T751 Yellow wire, pin #1 C7 circuit T751 Yellow wire and pin #5 C1 circuit T750.

3. Check powers and grounds. On the bottom of the IPM, test all of the power and ground supplies for the IPM. There are several that need to be tested, one common one is a Black/Yellow ground wire at the C5 connector on pin 14.
Tech Tips: Any power or ground supply to the IPM will cause the IPM to not function correctly.
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1. Verify the ignition switch position is indicated correctly in the Body Control Module (BCM) and the Integrated Power Module (IPM). The ignition switch has a built in position sensor that reports the position of the ignition switch to the BCM. The BCM then broadcasts the position to all the modules that need the information on the BUS circuit.

2. Check circuit T751 and T752 at the Intelligent Power Module (IPM) for voltage with the engine running. These circuits should have battery voltage only during cranking and should go to 0 volts with the vehicle running. If there is any voltage on these circuits, the IPM will de-energize the accessory relay, which cause the named circuits to shut down, even with the vehicle running. Voltage typically comes from the wire harness due to battery acid from the battery. Voltage gets tracked into these circuits and cause the IPM to shut down the accessory relay. Another cause could be any add-on system such as a remote starter system wired into these circuits.
 
This is the kind of info I was hoping to see! Thanks! I will look into all this tonight....
 
Ok, this is what i was able to gather tonight briefly:

Starter relay pin 85 with engine running shows approximately 3.5 volts. I tried switching the acc relay and the starter relay to see if i could isolate it as a faulty relay and the car still started. so this leads me to believe that the acc relay is in working order. Either relay number 55 or relay number 56 which would either be front wiper on relay or front wiper hi/lo relay respectively is chattering. It sounds like it is opening and closing rapidly and almost sounds like what a fuel injector sounds like when the engine is running they were opening and closing that fast. I have 14 volts at the main lug at the fuse box that comes from the battery b+ terminal. #21 and #17 the fuel pump relay and the eatx sol relay were getting very warm with the engine only running for about five minutes while i was testing wires. Fuse #25 which is the rad, amp, nav, HFM, SNRF, EVIC, EC Mirror 15 amp fuse was not blown and neither side of the terminal showed any voltage at all while the motor was running....

HELP!!!
 
Pin 85 is power feed from ignition switch and should only have volts in crank position and nothing in run. You have found a problem "shows approximately 3.5 volts"
and need to locate the source of a short to voltage in that circuit.




"Check circuit T751 and T752 at the Intelligent Power Module (IPM) for voltage with the engine running. These circuits should have battery voltage only during cranking and should go to 0 volts with the vehicle running. If there is any voltage on these circuits, the IPM will de-energize the accessory relay, which cause the named circuits to shut down"


Circuit T751 is the ignition switch feed to pin 85 of starter relay . Circuit t752 is the ground side of the relay pin 86 from the pcm
 

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So if I'm reading this correctly it looks to me that the ignition switch may be the culprit?
 
"Voltage typically comes from the wire harness due to battery acid from the battery"



I personally haven't seen this issue , but I would check the harness below the battery . Sounds like the battery acid deteriorates the insulation and allow wires to feed each other.
 
Would tranny fluid deteriorate the wires insulation? I had a cooler line leaking and it soaked the harness that runs from what I am assuming is the PCM to the IPM... I haven't torn into that harness, but I guess it's possible that could be where I am having issues?? What do you think?
 
Anything that could compromise the insulation of the wire . I would follow the yellow wires coming from the IPM . Circuit T751 , looks like coming from connectors C4 and C7.
 
Do you have a link to the diagrams? I can't read most of what's on them once you get down to the relay numbers and wire colors....
 
"1. Start the engine and remove the starter motor relay in the IPM. Check voltage in cavity # 85; there should be no voltage. If any voltage is present, the PCM will think the engine is in crank mode and will not energize the relay.

2. If voltage is present, cut wires that can leak voltage on circuit. Starting with pin #4 C4 from IPM circuit #T751 Yellow wire, pin #1 C7 circuit T751 Yellow wire and pin #5 C1 circuit T750. "


Pin #5 on connector 1 circuit T750 wire is a YL/GY wire.

I would pull the battery and battery tray and locate these wires listed above coming out of the IPM and check your harness closely, these three circuits are the possible source of finding voltage on cavity 85 of the starter relay . The pcm monitors this circuit and with a voltage it is not energizing /grounding the acc. relay.
 

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As a dodge tech try a known good ignition switch. If no go then check the splice in the driver kick panel.Ive seen several things cause this type of malfunction. But without seeing it myself its hard to guide you. PM me. ill help if I can.
 
roughidle said:
Would tranny fluid deteriorate the wires insulation? I had a cooler line leaking and it soaked the harness that runs from what I am assuming is the PCM to the IPM... I haven't torn into that harness, but I guess it's possible that could be where I am having issues?? What do you think?
Click to expand...
Yes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and the harness rubs the trans case look for it.
 
roughidle said:
Just cutting the wires one at a time will have no ill effect?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't start cutting wires, unless you found a know bad section in your harness.
I would look closely at your harness as why you have voltage when you shouldn't
You may want to pick up a factory service manual on E-bay etc. to check this wiring out .
With the IPM module next to your battery and with the harness coming out of it going under the battery , that would be where I would check out closely.
 
Alright, well it rained all night last night, so I didn't get anything done there, and now I'll be out of town all weekend, no we'll have to put a pin in this till Monday... Hopefully with this new information I can nail this bit*h down. Thanks to the both of you. I'll check back in Monday night...
 
bet my quarter on ignition switch. Seen it too many times and not just in Chrysler products either. Manually operated switches are always suspect, especially those high repetition switches. heck I had a GM here once ( Lumina I think ) that wouldn't start but would cycle the electric fuel pump on and off with the hazard flasher switch. Took a while to figure out this was a backward feed signaling a relay but the ignition switch was the culprit.
 
TIPM. We see a lot of them, and don't buy a used one because most of them have failed as well. They are expensive, but if you own a Pacifica you will eventually buy one. Listen to blown71duster and check it out, but we have replaced many of them here in the shop. Hell, if you own any mid 2000 and up Mopar, especially the trucks, you will likely run into a lighting problem and end up replacing your Totally Integrated Power Module.
 
I was reading about problems related to the IPM and of course all power and grounds are recommended to be checked , but the main one that seems to give problems is Ground #G103

" one common one is a Black/Yellow ground wire at the C5 connector on pin 14."

May want to check that out also, not sure exactly location . Some talk about it on the left front frame area .

You could always throw a good ignition switch on it and see if that takes care of your problem, not seeing that as a common problem on these related to the IPM feed problem. But with electrical anything is possible.

Several reports of this ground bad at G103 with symptoms of Wipers, windows, radio all inoperative as you are describing . Checking that ground is a must
 

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Some owners of the newer minivans (2001+) report similar problems where they have to wack the dash to "fix it". In my 2002 T&C, when the battery has gotten low the whole dash goes crazy, flashing lights, chimes, actuating windshield wipers, shows all tranny gears. I agree w/ first checking grounds. A bad dash ground would be the same as "low voltage".
 
So, this is where I ended up...

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And after all that pulling harnesses apart and checking all the wiring that I could....

IT WAS THE F*CKING GROUND CONNECTION ON THE FRAME!!!!!! G103....

So, thank you to all above. Pulling this ground connection was actually one of the first things that I did. However, I was more focused on making sure that the connection of the ring terminal to the body was good that I completely overlooked the poor condition of the wires within the ring terminal itself. So, after pulling most of the ground wires off of the ring terminal with almost no resistance due to corrosion of the wires themselves. I split the multitude of wires that were going to one single ring terminal up into two separate ring terminals and soldered them on. Put everything back together and uala!.... EVERYTHING is back to working as it should..... This was easily the most brain teasing and painful work I've ever done to a vehicle (and I've completely rebuilt vehicles from the ground up before)....and it all came down to something that I had my hands on in the beginning.....F**K...Oh well. It's fixed. I couldn't have done it without your help and just make sure you double check yourselves as you go along....You may very well save yourselves some huge headaches...
 
Luckily I wanted to pull the front end apart anyway so that I could replace the tranny lines that the dealership can't seem to find for me....
 
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