new 408 build..

[Icetech]

So after 10 months i got my block back and picked up my stroker kit.. Am making this thread cause i know i will have questions as i go along..

Right now i'm just opening boxes like it's xmas and planning ahead

One thing that surprised me is that the ARP main studs came with bolts for the oil pump clearance.. everything i have read has said you have to call them for bolts or start grinding (i had planned on grinding)

I assume the bolts should go to 110# same as the nuts on the studs? The bolt that holds the kevco pickup says 110 also.. just double checking. I plan on using CMD lube not arp. not sure how much that skews the torque numbers...

P.S. plan to get a rod bolt stretch gauge. a buddy is trying to talk me into just using a torque wrench but after reading about stretch and how far off a torque wrench can be.. i don't feel like taking a chance

block is a 85 360, .030 over, line honed, decked and all the fun stuff.. cam bearings actually went perfect in one go which the machinist said is a miracle

Kit is a Molnar forged 408 with -20.5 dished Icon pistons

Jones solid roller with bam lifters

Soon as i get home from work, first thing will be putting the cam and lifters in to make sure no lifters pop up outa the bores too far, then onto cleaning/building.

 

[Murray]

Yes, Christmas has come early.

 

[Icetech]

It's funny since i rarely feel happiness anymore.. but this so far is making me happy

 

[Icetech]

Kit came with UEM rings, never heard of them... they are +.035.. hoping that's not an issue.. and also hoping i can find my ring filer i put away 2 decades ago

 

[4eighteener]

It's funny since i rarely feel happiness anymore.. but this so far is making me happy
View attachment 1716550833

That pales in comparison to the first start

 

[FWest]

Mind if I ask an approximate cost for the block ? I just picked up a 1976 360 and will be getting it to the shop shortly.

 

[jbc426]

Best of luck to you. Why not ARP lube and a name brand set of rings? Maybe send the pistons out for de-burring and coating, blend all the internal oil passages in the block, measure everything twice, debur the block inside and out including any threaded holes, clean the block inside and out including oil passages in block and crank. Keep the bores oiled.

What heads are you planning on running?

 

[Icetech]

Mind if I ask an approximate cost for the block ? I just picked up a 1976 360 and will be getting it to the shop shortly.

soo.. no itemized receipt.. just a cash deal..
block was baked, cleaned, bead blasted (or whatever)
decked, bored, finish honed
line honed
cam bearings installed (was gonna do them myself but glad he did)
Also came with a ARP main stud kit that was $80

Total i gave him was 1300... which i expected 1200-1500...

BUT.. the guy i used isn't a normal shop.. he works out of his own giant pole barn doing very specific work and mopar race stuff.. so not sure how a normal shop would charge for all that..

 

[Icetech]

Best of luck to you. Why not ARP lube and a name brand set of rings? Maybe send the pistons out for de-burring and coating, blend all the internal oil passages in the block, measure everything twice, debur the block inside and out including any threaded holes, clean the block inside and out including oil passages in block and crank. Keep the bores oiled.

What heads are you planning on running?

Pistons have the skirts coated already.. i will be cleaning everything and measuring it all very well through the process... as far as oiling mods, i won't be going over 6000, MAYBE 6500 if i'm slow shifting.. everyone i talked to said the stock setup is fine til you go much over that. Plus.. everytime i use the damn die grinder i get chatter and bounce off ****.. or the bit comes out on me and hits ****.. i know my luck and 100% would hit a cyl wall or something.

Heads are Trickflow 190s that are on my 318 right now.. with arp studs, Mancini/harland sharp 1.5 rockers

 

[Icetech]

I ever show you guys my crank? It's big and heavy....

Balance sheet... i dont know exactly what the numbers mean but the before force on the crank is crazy compared to after.

 

[Icetech]

BTW.. the whole kit came from @PROSTOCKTOM here on the forum... he got it out to me pretty quick and kept me informed along the way.. great service.

 

[Icetech]

bah.. machinist forgot the tower bushing

 

[TT5.9mag]

You have the parts to build a very nice shortblock. Be diligent about cleanliness. When you think it’s clean, wipe it with a white, lint free towel, and clean it until the towel comes back white after wiping. Use the ARP lube, their torque values are based on that lube. If you’re measuring stretch it really doesn’t matter but IME the ARP lube has the most consistent results.

 

[Icetech]

You have the parts to build a very nice shortblock. Be diligent about cleanliness. When you think it’s clean, wipe it with a white, lint free towel, and clean it until the towel comes back white after wiping. Use the ARP lube, their torque values are based on that lube. If you’re measuring stretch it really doesn’t matter but IME the ARP lube has the most consistent results.

yeah, i'm nut bout keeping it clean.. spent the weekend cleaning my garage getting ready for this.. (garage still isn't great but the motor will be)

i have a buddy that works on vettes and i have seen literal dirt go into **** "Doesn't matter" makes me lose my mind...

BTW.. any tip for installing a tower bushing without the tool? i keep a old dist drive in case i needed it to drive in the bushing.. not sure about "Burnishing" it though..

 

[TT5.9mag]

yeah, i'm nut bout keeping it clean.. spent the weekend cleaning my garage getting ready for this.. (garage still isn't great but the motor will be)

i have a buddy that works on vettes and i have seen literal dirt go into **** "Doesn't matter" makes me lose my mind...

BTW.. any tip for installing a tower bushing without the tool? i keep a old dist drive in case i needed it to drive in the bushing.. not sure about "Burnishing" it though..

I just did one in a magnum block. I froze the bushing over night next to my fresh bluefin tuna steaks then dropped it in and tapped it with a bushing driver the correct size. Was easy. I did not need to burnish it or ream it to size at all.

 

[Icetech]

I just did one in a magnum block. I froze the bushing over night next to my fresh bluefin tuna steaks then dropped it in and tapped it with a bushing driver the correct size. Was easy. I did not need to burnish it or ream it to size at all.

Ahh.. just read 30 seconds ago that the newer ones come sized to not need burnishing and i wouldn't have thought of freezing ( i know about it.. but when i work on **** i tend to forget at the moment i need it)

thanks much

 

[Icetech]

I just did one in a magnum block. I froze the bushing over night next to my fresh bluefin tuna steaks then dropped it in and tapped it with a bushing driver the correct size. Was easy. I did not need to burnish it or ream it to size at all.

BTW TT, you know what brand bushing you used? durabond? pioneer?

And it's silly to build such a bottom end to spin 6k. but i want something i never worry bout

 

[Icetech]

BTW.. i know some people frown on it.. but should i go plastigauge or buy a inside bore gauge and do it proper?

 

[TT5.9mag]

BTW TT, you know what brand bushing you used? durabond? pioneer?

And it's silly to build such a bottom end to spin 6k. but i want something i never worry bout

Nope don’t remember the brand. Just had the machine shop get me one.
To make a stroker rev (correction, make power) above 6500 you’re going to need a whole lot more cylinder head and camshaft. You’re building a perfect street engine that’ll make great power for a long time. No need to spin up there if it don’t make power up there.

 

[Icetech]

Nope don’t remember the brand. Just had the machine shop get me one.
To make a stroker rev (correction, make power) above 6500 you’re going to need a whole lot more cylinder head and camshaft. You’re building a perfect street engine that’ll make great power for a long time. No need to spin up there if it don’t make power up there.

yeah.. that's what i was thinking.. and i know eventually i will drop to 3.23s or 3.55s anyway

 

[TT5.9mag]

BTW.. i know some people frown on it.. but should i go plastigauge or buy an inside bore gauge and do it proper?

How many engines do you plan on building? Plastigauge don’t lie but I use micrometers and bore gauges when I put something together.

 

[Icetech]

buying the stretch gauge is killing me... everything other than the ARP one get bad reviews.. and the ARP is almost $200...

 

[Icetech]

How many engines do you plan on building? Plastigauge don’t lie but I use micrometers and bore gauges when I put something together.

this will be my last engine (20 years ago i also had my last old car.. so you know how it goes...)

 

[Icetech]

BTW.. inverse radius lobes feel weird as hell...

And i'm too hyper today and will be posting too much. i even annoy myself

 

[Icetech]

this is the cam btw..