Dave999
Well-Known Member
The chinese/Australian one, is a version of the bosch distributor used in the GM Holden 6 cylinder cars.
the chances of that vacuum can actually working are low
The GM Holden I6 (aus)
The Mopar slant 6 (USA and SA and AUS and Mexico and Spain)
The Australian Mopar hemi 6 (Aus and NZ)
all have the same bore of hole
all use a similar nylon, bronze or steel drive gear with the same pitch
Only difference is the depth that the dizzy goes into the block
Hence it is easy to make that distributor in China, and get the shaft and base machined to the right length to cater for each application.
The australians use a Bosch module that has the same stuff inside as the GM HEI 4 pin, but it is more expensive and a different shape same old s41t diffrent shovel
The benfit of this distibutor, is that the advance weights swing out and hit "easily bent" stops on the perifery of the advance mechnaism. So reducing total mechanical advance involves bending them in, away from the case of the distributor, with a fat screw driver and nothing else. No slots no welding, no additional discs from FBO
BUT the best bet is still an original slant 6 electronic
drill a hole in the side of the body
mount a chunk of aluminium angle, to act as a module mount and heat sink
mount your 4 pin HEI module on it , with the paste for heat transfer, bolt it down tight to ground it.
cut off the dizzy plug and put on spade connectors , you will have to work out which way to connect the wires (runs good runs bad or won't start. its obvious when wrong)
Wire the lot in to a coil like this one, link below (cheap and good spec. dunno about brand) the 2 connectors to the left of coil output when the output stud connector is facing you are + the other 2 on the other side are -
negative from coil to negative on module
negative on coil to tacho
negtive on coil to diode, easiest way is to use a piggy back female with male connector spade on the diode wire
positive on coil to +12volt
positive on coil to + on module
Cobra/Filko Ignition Coil NEW GM HEI ignition coil 1975-1984 GM 4cly/6cly 91769004750 | eBay
This is the truck version (hence ref to 6 cyl) (remote mount coil) of the "mounted in the dizzy cap" HEI coil used on most other V8 GM stuff 1976 onwards.
Presumed cheap, beacuse anyone who hot rods a GM truck sticks a 350 in it and uses the big coil in cap dizzy.
you will need to make a bracket for it. A nice bit of 1 inch by 1 inch by 1 inch aluminium channel works fine. 2 holes for orginal block mounting, 2 offset for the top two coil holes and 1 for the diode....(diode??see below)
and get 4 m4 bolts 2 for coil to bracket mounting, and two for the free end of the coil, just to hold liminated parts togther. use spring washers and locktite.
Use a short plug lead, male stud is same as spark plug tip, as your King lead, to connect coil male stud to your female distributor cap
buy a
VS-40HFR40 Diode (stud mount diode, R in name means reversed anode/cathode)
mount it into the bracket as well, and run a wire from the free end to coil negative
This diode clamps total voltage seen (back emf) at the transistor juncton (as the secondary voltage rises to 10... 15... 30 KV) in the module to 400 Volts.
A modern HEI module can stand 500 Volts without the diode as protection, and the original GM spec stated 350V was maximim and used a 350V diode.
The 400 volt one is a nice compromise and is just belt and braces/suspenders protection from spikes that could take out HEI module and your tacho..
If your tacho suffers intermittent fault at the momnet with standard igntion, pointer pegged to the end stop. This will reduce likleyhood of that occuring when you replace your coil with what ammounts to a 12 volt welding pack.
For the cautious or electronically curious, zener diode position and orientation shown here
https://lotuselan.net/lel/28739/1/v12 ign1.jpg
open up plug gaps to 35-40 thou and if yoru plug leads are good
enjoy
If Anyone asks you what your coil is, just tell em you got it from a broken microwave oven and the diode supresses the cooking rays. They all move quick, when you close the hood you start the car......
HEI convesrion is a complete waste of time if you don't run the HEI liminated core coil, The canister coils just don't cut it....and don't be tempted to use that old but nice and expensive 1980s race coil that specified a ballast resistor... that's not going to work.
With the right parts you can have an ingition system that creates the same spark energy as a basic CDI like an MSD6 for $50 if you have the dizzy.
see notes from some bloke who seems to know what he is doing here
CDI vs MDI CAPACITANCE DISCHARGE IGNITION and MAGNETIC DISCHARGE IGNITION high voltage rise times and the ability to fire fouled spark plugs.
Dave
PS i'm bored so i looked it up...
Cobra and filko seem to be 1980s service station brands made by wells. i belive wells were resonably well respected ... its all greek to me, this is US branding of US made stuff and i wasn't there to witness it
too young and too far away, different country etc we just had Lucas "Prince of Darkness" with his hell hounds intermoto and unipart, or the respected Bosch, Hella or Quinton Hazell
the chances of that vacuum can actually working are low
The GM Holden I6 (aus)
The Mopar slant 6 (USA and SA and AUS and Mexico and Spain)
The Australian Mopar hemi 6 (Aus and NZ)
all have the same bore of hole
all use a similar nylon, bronze or steel drive gear with the same pitch
Only difference is the depth that the dizzy goes into the block
Hence it is easy to make that distributor in China, and get the shaft and base machined to the right length to cater for each application.
The australians use a Bosch module that has the same stuff inside as the GM HEI 4 pin, but it is more expensive and a different shape same old s41t diffrent shovel
The benfit of this distibutor, is that the advance weights swing out and hit "easily bent" stops on the perifery of the advance mechnaism. So reducing total mechanical advance involves bending them in, away from the case of the distributor, with a fat screw driver and nothing else. No slots no welding, no additional discs from FBO
BUT the best bet is still an original slant 6 electronic
drill a hole in the side of the body
mount a chunk of aluminium angle, to act as a module mount and heat sink
mount your 4 pin HEI module on it , with the paste for heat transfer, bolt it down tight to ground it.
cut off the dizzy plug and put on spade connectors , you will have to work out which way to connect the wires (runs good runs bad or won't start. its obvious when wrong)
Wire the lot in to a coil like this one, link below (cheap and good spec. dunno about brand) the 2 connectors to the left of coil output when the output stud connector is facing you are + the other 2 on the other side are -
negative from coil to negative on module
negative on coil to tacho
negtive on coil to diode, easiest way is to use a piggy back female with male connector spade on the diode wire
positive on coil to +12volt
positive on coil to + on module
Cobra/Filko Ignition Coil NEW GM HEI ignition coil 1975-1984 GM 4cly/6cly 91769004750 | eBay
This is the truck version (hence ref to 6 cyl) (remote mount coil) of the "mounted in the dizzy cap" HEI coil used on most other V8 GM stuff 1976 onwards.
Presumed cheap, beacuse anyone who hot rods a GM truck sticks a 350 in it and uses the big coil in cap dizzy.
you will need to make a bracket for it. A nice bit of 1 inch by 1 inch by 1 inch aluminium channel works fine. 2 holes for orginal block mounting, 2 offset for the top two coil holes and 1 for the diode....(diode??see below)
and get 4 m4 bolts 2 for coil to bracket mounting, and two for the free end of the coil, just to hold liminated parts togther. use spring washers and locktite.
Use a short plug lead, male stud is same as spark plug tip, as your King lead, to connect coil male stud to your female distributor cap
buy a
VS-40HFR40 Diode (stud mount diode, R in name means reversed anode/cathode)
mount it into the bracket as well, and run a wire from the free end to coil negative
This diode clamps total voltage seen (back emf) at the transistor juncton (as the secondary voltage rises to 10... 15... 30 KV) in the module to 400 Volts.
A modern HEI module can stand 500 Volts without the diode as protection, and the original GM spec stated 350V was maximim and used a 350V diode.
The 400 volt one is a nice compromise and is just belt and braces/suspenders protection from spikes that could take out HEI module and your tacho..
If your tacho suffers intermittent fault at the momnet with standard igntion, pointer pegged to the end stop. This will reduce likleyhood of that occuring when you replace your coil with what ammounts to a 12 volt welding pack.
For the cautious or electronically curious, zener diode position and orientation shown here
https://lotuselan.net/lel/28739/1/v12 ign1.jpg
open up plug gaps to 35-40 thou and if yoru plug leads are good
enjoy
If Anyone asks you what your coil is, just tell em you got it from a broken microwave oven and the diode supresses the cooking rays. They all move quick, when you close the hood you start the car......
HEI convesrion is a complete waste of time if you don't run the HEI liminated core coil, The canister coils just don't cut it....and don't be tempted to use that old but nice and expensive 1980s race coil that specified a ballast resistor... that's not going to work.
With the right parts you can have an ingition system that creates the same spark energy as a basic CDI like an MSD6 for $50 if you have the dizzy.
see notes from some bloke who seems to know what he is doing here
CDI vs MDI CAPACITANCE DISCHARGE IGNITION and MAGNETIC DISCHARGE IGNITION high voltage rise times and the ability to fire fouled spark plugs.
Dave
PS i'm bored so i looked it up...
Cobra and filko seem to be 1980s service station brands made by wells. i belive wells were resonably well respected ... its all greek to me, this is US branding of US made stuff and i wasn't there to witness it
too young and too far away, different country etc we just had Lucas "Prince of Darkness" with his hell hounds intermoto and unipart, or the respected Bosch, Hella or Quinton Hazell
Last edited:
