*NEW* Solid Roller Lifters From MRL Performance

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MRL Performance

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My Fellow Mopar Gear Heads,

Introducing our NEW line of Solid Roller Lifters for Small/Big/Hemi Blocks. These NEW lifters are the top of the line in terms of design, metallurgy, fitment, fit and finish, durability and best of all PRICE ! Read along to find out all there is to know about these great NEW lifters for the MOPAR crowd. You simply will not find a better solid roller lifter for the price. Beware of the low quality, poorly designed cheap lifters that are out there. Our lifters are CAD designed and have been test fit into many blocks to ensure proper fitment. They are race track and Dyno proven to be winners!

Go to www.MRLPERFORMANCE.com and sign up for our news letter and get a coupon for $50 off cam/lifter package.

SBM Pro Sport $450
BBM Pro Sport $450
BBM Pro Plus $580 COMING SOON!
SBM Pro Plus COMING SOON!

MRL Performance ROLLER LIFTERS

Pro Sport Series

Lifters feature increased diameter oil band for maximum rigidity. Roller bearing pocket is designed for excellent shrouding of the roller bearing, providing strength and stability with smooth rounded edges that minimize lifter bore wear.

Pro Plus Series

Lifters feature 4-column design for ultimate strength and rigidity while minimizing mass. Deep roller bearing pocket provides maximum roller bearing shrouding, maximizing rigidity and thrust surface area with smooth rounded edges that minimize lifter bore wear.

Key Fetures That Make These Lifters The Best On The Market

Triple Alloy Steel Billet Lifter Bodies machined on state of the art CNC equipment.

Machined with "One & Done" concept for ultimate relational accuracy of all part features.

Superior 3D CNC programming removes sharp edges that scrape and damage lifter bores.

Heat treated for Maximum strength, hardness and straightness in ISO certified furnaces.

Precision Ground Bodies for proper fitment in aftermarket and stock lifter bores.

Link Bars made of hardened, high strength, and high ductility Nickel-Chromium Alloy Steel.

The fully hardened alloy steel button is secured with a non-removable, high strength, fatigue resistant rivet.

Premium Alloy Steel Needle Roller Bearings feature crowned outer rings, micro-polished and micro-sorted roller needles, hardened and nitrided bearing steel axles.

Pressure fed oiling provides continuous oil to the axle and roller bearing.

Additional reliefs on each side of the roller slot allow engine oil from the cam lobe face to lubricate the needle rollers.

Edge Orifice design push rod oiling won't clog and rob upper valve train of engine oil. This feature can be modified to increase oil flow to the top.

All lifter bodies will clear both stock and aftermarket .300" tall lifter bores.

Custom modifications are available.

100% Made in the U.S.A.
 

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Good Luck Mike!
Looks like a sweet setup and a good price!
 
Thanks. We did a lot of R&D on these. They fit without grinding, oil band wont come out the top and are TOP quality. They work in the older blocks with the DEEP chamfer, all the way up to the R blocks and Ritter blocks.
 

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they fit the tall resto blocks? there were no solid rollers available for them since the link bar was too low
 
Yup, they will fit in the tall blocks as well. But as with anything, you have to check fitment. We can customize them too to make them fit if need be.
 
Are you the manufacturer or a vendor??Will they live in the street with higher spring rates??How much is a rebuild?

I have been through a few failures$$$$$$$$$.
 
Both. They are race track and dyno proven to withstand some serious abuse. They will last on the street for many years and many miles. These lifters are top of the line and are better than lifters that cost 2X as much.
 
Are you the manufacturer or a vendor??Will they live in the street with higher spring rates??How much is a rebuild?

I have been through a few failures$$$$$$$$$.

Al - Looks like they addressed everything that might hurt street use/life... I like the pressure fed needles and the attention to needle prep especially.

Mike - Looks very good. What's the "Edge Oriface" thing? I've had a coupled burned pushrod ends before that led to rocker issues and I sttiributed it to the particular pushrod used. Never thought it might be a problem a lifter could address.
 
Its a self metering way to oil up thru the pushrod. If your not using oil thru pushrods, its no big deal. Just like the hydraulic flat tappets we use now, they all have the ability to oil thru. There is a hole that runs parallel with the roller axle that intersects the hole in the pushrod seat. This send oil up thru the pushrod.

Our rollers are the best, plain and simple. They get a constant supply of oil to them to keep them lubed and cool. Blocking all the oil going to the lifter is a bad idea, and a lot of lifters have failed because of this. Tubing and bushing the lifter bore was the norm because the lifters would not fit right and oiling issues were rampant. Those days are over. I fixed it for all. Our Pro Sport rollers are better than the "Elite" rollers from the other guys, and our Pro Plus well that the best.
 
So Mike, are you saying that MRL actually manufacturers these lifters? If so, that's great. Looks like yall have addressed some long needed problem areas.
 
How much taller are these than Comp hyd lifters? Do you suggest getting hollow pushrods for these (I am assuming that matching pushrods will be needed)? These eliminate the need for all the zinc in the oil?

BTW, what weight and brand oil did you use in that 418 that made so much torque and used these lifters?
 
So when are you going to fix the lifter bore machining issues too??!!!! :)
 
Zinc is still a good idea in a HP engine, good oil is good oil. We ran the VR1 in that engine, 20w50. I break-in and run almost all my engines with that. Later he can run like a Dominator 10w30 and pick up another 10hp or so.

You know how manufacturing goes, but yes they are made here in the USA, buy Americans using American Steel. Not to say there is anything wrong with having stuff done outside the USA, but we can control everything as its right here. We can do short run customs too. All in house basically. I can not man the phones, plunk on this thing, sell parts, go to shows, build killer engines, and make lifters all by myself. Its a partnership if you like. Quality is #1, and it really shows.
 
hey mike i know this is the small block section but i have a big block ????..will this work in a unbushed block?????if so about whats the limit on the lift??? i know it all needs to be check and the core shift stuff but do you have any idea on how much lift????? thanks and glad to see more parts for the budget guys..mike
 
Yeah, I dont know why I put this in the Small block section, it should be moved to a General type section.

Anyhow, these lifters will handle as much lift as you want. The BBM Pro Sports can handle upwards of 1000hp, and the Pro Plus, well if you can build a 1000+hp engine, you can not do better than those. I have them test fit in stock and world/mega blocks with .575" lobe lift.
 
Well man, that's awesome. With the few things Rodney and I have gotten from you it was easy to see what a stand guy you are. I'm sure this venture will prove nothing different.
 
Zinc is still a good idea in a HP engine, good oil is good oil. We ran the VR1 in that engine, 20w50. I break-in and run almost all my engines with that. Later he can run like a Dominator 10w30 and pick up another 10hp or so.

I asked because I went from 20W-50 to 10W-30 in the 416 and didn't like the 20 PSI hot idle pressure I was getting but did like the way the engine wasn't so darn cold blooded at cold start/idle. Next try will be Rotella T3 15W-40 and I was wondering if with that 560 HP Voodoo cam and these lifters if I could get away from the zinc.
 
20w50 will get the pressure higher, but as long as the pressure is good(10psi per 1000rpm), its not an issue. Pressure isnt flow, and flow is very important. You can get away with a lot less zinc running a roller cam, but its a good idea to still run it in a HP engine running high spring pressures.
 
nice and the price is good to are your lifter good to go with any can choice or strictly your stuff.
 
Thanks. We did a lot of R&D on these. They fit without grinding, oil band wont come out the top and are TOP quality. They work in the older blocks with the DEEP chamfer, all the way up to the R blocks and Ritter blocks.

Mike, it looks like the lifter bores were bushed in that pic. Were they, and do you recommend bushing the bores when these rollers are put in? Is it required or "nice to have"?
 
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