Tried starting it and it gave me the same issue as about a week ago. I turn the key and it tries turning over real slow like the battery is dead and then just clicks. The voltage at the battery is 13+v. I tried jumping the starter relay, not sure if i did it right, turn the key to acc, take a screw driver across the 2 studs with the red wires, it sparked and i heard a click.
new starting issue, help before I have to call dr hook
- Thread starter SR77
- Start date
-
barty005
Well-Known Member
Check wiring making sure your earth is good use you jump leads if you not sure to help eliminate the earth.
mopar56
Well-Known Member
how are you checking your battery, a volt meter will only give you a reading of a surface charge, you also need to to a specific gravity test with a hydrometer ( should be 12.75 ) in each and use a proper carbon pile battery load tester, not a wafer tester, you probably wont have one but most parts stores do and usually will test it for free, also a bad starter, (as well as many other things ) will also cause the solenoid to click you could try jumping it direct start with the battery
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
There are really only 4 main things this could be.
Battery can't put out the amps to crank it. (have it checked with a load tester)
Autozone and such other places can do this for you as well as some battery sales places.
We have a Budget Batteries store that does it, and I'm pretty sure Interstate battery houses also do.
The connections must all be clean and tight (especially if you have those temp terminals)
For fixing cable ends.
Make sure you have good clean and tight connections, and a good ground from the battery, to the body and especially from the battery to the engine.
The relay (which you jumped to bypass but still had the same problem so probably not the relay)
The starter, because the brushes can get worn down to where they don't make a good contact on the starter armature to make it turn when power is applied.
This one is fairly easy to diagnose.
When it just clicks, smack the end farthest from the engine a decent whack with the hammer and try it again.
If the hammer smack made it work again, then it is for sure the starter.
While there make sure the starter is bolted down tight. (it can't ground well if it isn't, and can cause the same symptoms.)
After all this is done IT WILL TURN OVER or you will find why it doesn't.
Battery can't put out the amps to crank it. (have it checked with a load tester)
Autozone and such other places can do this for you as well as some battery sales places.
We have a Budget Batteries store that does it, and I'm pretty sure Interstate battery houses also do.
The connections must all be clean and tight (especially if you have those temp terminals)
For fixing cable ends.
Make sure you have good clean and tight connections, and a good ground from the battery, to the body and especially from the battery to the engine.
The relay (which you jumped to bypass but still had the same problem so probably not the relay)
The starter, because the brushes can get worn down to where they don't make a good contact on the starter armature to make it turn when power is applied.
This one is fairly easy to diagnose.
When it just clicks, smack the end farthest from the engine a decent whack with the hammer and try it again.
If the hammer smack made it work again, then it is for sure the starter.
While there make sure the starter is bolted down tight. (it can't ground well if it isn't, and can cause the same symptoms.)
After all this is done IT WILL TURN OVER or you will find why it doesn't.
Usually, a clickety-clickety buzz sound from the relay and or solenoid is a dead / weak battery or bad cables and connectons
usually, just one "thump" from the starter solenoid means a bad starter
This is not always the case.
usually, just one "thump" from the starter solenoid means a bad starter
This is not always the case.
Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
throw jumper cables on it
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxpYN-NK54Y"]Dr. Hook - When You're In Love with a Beautiful Woman - YouTube[/ame]
I called Dr Hook for you
I called Dr Hook for you
^thanks,
threw a jump station on it last night and it turned over, learn something new everyday, i always assumed if the voltage was good the battery was good, anytime any of you are in Michigan stop in I'll get you coney dog pizza
threw a jump station on it last night and it turned over, learn something new everyday, i always assumed if the voltage was good the battery was good, anytime any of you are in Michigan stop in I'll get you coney dog pizza
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Battery voltage IS a good indicator of a battery condition, but you have to measure it after the battery has 'rested' a few hours to let the internal surface charge dissipate. 12.6-12.7v is an indicator of a good charge in a 'rested', healthy battery. Measuring battery voltage right after the car has shut off or a quick charger is removed will give high battery readings due to the surface charge referred to.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Yes it is but...
I have seen batteries show the right voltage but not be capable of the amps output it should.
Sounds like the OP found that out.
-
Similar threads
