next project...rear plow

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  1. diymirage

    diymirage HP@idle > hondaHP@redline

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    hey guys, i am working on a deal for a rear plow for my plow truck

    im sure i can figure the mechanical part out (stay tuned for pictures) but at this point my main concern is the electrical
    its a full sized truck and i intend to run the pump in the back, with no separate battery (the truck allready has two)

    so im looking at running about 25 foot of welding leads to the back of the truck
    would 4 guage be sufficient?
     
  2. Murray

    Murray FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Don't forget a big alternator.
     
  3. Syleng1

    Syleng1 Karma is real and Life is short... FABO Gold Member

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    Due to the length and amperage of the pump (180-250amps on most plow pumps) I would go 2/0 welding cable. Easier than hydraulic hoses all the way to the back like one truck I had with a pull plow out back. The guy put the pump up front next to the master cylinder - short battery cables and then two hydraulic hoses to the back like 20ft long each. It worked actually as a pull plow and the front push plow it was a awesome combo.
     
  4. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Without knowing the power the plow pulls, impossible to recommend. Remember that all this puts TREMENDOUS load on the charging system, not just the alternator, but the wiring as well. You have to re-charge those two big batteries

    There is another caveat........the more load you put on a vehicle system, and start to pull it down, the electrical noise caused by both the alternator (ripple at minimum) and the loads (motors and switchgear) goes UP. This can raise hell with the vehicle electronics

    You might want to investigate a much larger alternator and direct wiring charging line. similar to an "ammeter bypass" except---there probably is no ammeter, but the point is, get a direct heavy route from alternator to battery.

    It MIGHT even be time to consider isolated systems..............Two batteries, one only for the plows, with a separate added alternator
     
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    • fishmens67

      fishmens67 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      I just pull plow with my front plow. lol
      A couple passes the length of the truck.
      I've had a total of 8 different plows, never felt the need for a pull plow.
       
    • Tooljunkie

      Tooljunkie King of cobble/master of the broken bolt FABO Gold Member

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      I have a plow on my truck, it draws a lot of power. Two batteries. Chevy 1/2 ton. Guessing 100 amp alternator. Been on the truck 8 years.
      I use 1 run of welding cable to rear battery and heavy grounds to frame. Having a rear mounted plow has always been on my mind, plowing in reverse. Too much expense, time and abuse to make a rear plow worthwhile.
       
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      • diymirage

        diymirage HP@idle > hondaHP@redline

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        thanks guys

        the truck allready has 2 batteries and a V plow up front
        i think the charging system should be adequate, but ill keep an eye on it

        one of the main reasons i want to add a rear plow is because i do a few large parking lots and i spend a lot of time backing up
        i was thinking it would be awesome if i could use that backing up to move snow...even if it is just to clean up some windrows


        as far as the amperage, the pump im looking at is advertises as 1.6 KW, so that should be 130ish amp
         
      • Syleng1

        Syleng1 Karma is real and Life is short... FABO Gold Member

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        Look- as a person who has owned them commercially for plowing they work great. especially in condo units. Back up, drop both plows drive forward just past one truck length. Pick up both- back up and drop the front only and done. Also good for residential driveways because it cleans up over spills when making corners.
        Again mine was 8ft and pulled about 200amps when hot but when it’s ice cold possibly a lot less. Go for it! Saves on the neck muscles too!
         
      • diymirage

        diymirage HP@idle > hondaHP@redline

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        i dont suppose your commercial ones were hitch mounted were they?

        the one i just picked up was originally bolted to the frame of the truck, but i want to convert it to hitch mount
        it has a bog ole plate so i can just cut that off the I beam and weld a hitch bar on it
        im not sure if it makes sense to get a class V drawbar, cut it off and weld it, or buy one of the solid weld on bars

        (if yours were hitch mount, was the part that slid into the hitch solid or heavy wall ?
         
      • diymirage

        diymirage HP@idle > hondaHP@redline

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        Took some measurements and it looks like the new plow mount would bolt right to the frame, and replace the rear bumper

        i would just need to figure something out with the hitch, because i cant keep my hitch on it
        in the summer i use the plow truck to pull the boat so i would have to do something

        right now, the plan is to bolt on the plow frame and get all that operational, and then have a shop weld in a new receiver tube

        71I7GXW79YL._AC_SL1500_.jpg


        (i got a welder, but i only have fluxcore wire, no gas, and i dont want to have to worry about anything as i pull with this)


        one of my buddies had fallen on hard times so i let him borrow the truck so the whole project is on hold for a while
         
      • diymirage

        diymirage HP@idle > hondaHP@redline

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        got the truck back today and started pulling things off
        the bumper and the hitch are now on the side yard

        i took a good look at the plow frame and it looks like it can not slide flush on the truck frame because of the shock mounts
        long story short, it will portrude of the truck frame by about 3/4s of an inch
        not a big deal but it meant i couldnt copy the plow frame holes onto the truck frame, so i swapped it around and put the stock bumper mount holes on the plow frame

        by then, i had lost all daylite so i wont know for sure untill tomorrow if it fits, but i got high hopes it will slide right in

        best part of this set up is, the stock bumper mounting bolts were pressed into a plate together so they only take one socket to torque down

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