Nitrous plumbing A1A...??..

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I agree,I would ASSUME coming from Ted that means all is ok but it would be nice to know where the actual gap is set. I'm just leery of the speedmaster plate, I guess I think anything for $45 is too cheap to be quality but what the hell do I know. I aint saying it won't work but I would be really critical of it and make sure all the threads/fittings etc are not junky. I am all about budget but I still try to be careful on critical things. The way things are going for me at this point I am just hoping to be able to get some tires to run my car this summer. But, if things come together for me and you get a kit it would be a hell of a race.
It looks like God is talking to you.. lol..
 
Then again 6 or 7 years ago when I bought my pistol grip shifter it was well under $200 and now it doesn't look like you can get one for less than 250... non-original of course....
 
You missed a legendary bench racing session last Friday night and another one Sunday afternoon. Some really cool guys who bust each other's balls and love their cars.

Can't beat that.
Thanks for the invite...
Well you had to be vetted first, you know how guys come across on the internet you just never know who or whats going to show up :poke:,I am happy to say you passed lol:D
 
Well you had to be vetted first, you know how guys come across on the internet you just never know who or whats going to show up :poke:,I am happy to say you passed lol:D
Well I'm glad yellow rose finally got vetted...
 
Well you had to be vetted first, you know how guys come across on the internet you just never know who or whats going to show up :poke:,I am happy to say you passed lol:D
Is that the crispy cream crowd you're referring to doing the vetting. lol
 
Is that the crispy cream crowd you're referring to doing the vetting. lol
No,these guys, gotta make sure he's worthy of the Chinese goodness!
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Now I want some pork fried rice dam!
Ok, I just realized we are pulling a jpar on jpars's thread lol, carry on
 
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Here ya go J par.

I think this guy is runrunn around a 500 shot?
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Here you can see the back fire blow off plate. This keeps the carb from going to the moon during a nitrous back fire.

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Okay the research continues...
In my mind I always had it (the bottle)mounted on the passenger rear floorboard so I can just reach over and turn it on? There must be a reason people put it in the trunk? To hide it? LOL... I'm asking this because of the length of hose from the tank to the solenoid? I assume I want it as short as possible as I don't want to be putting a half a tank into an 18 foot line LOL..
I've been adding stuff into my Summit cart and looking at blow off valves and of course a purge system... Most of it is the zex brand and I've noticed even the complete dual quad kits don't come with quite a few things.. Beyond simple wiring some T fittings and some trigger switches I seem to be puzzling something together here for $100 or so less then a complete kit, but yet with all the extras as far as Purge kits blow off valve and so on.. right now the real money saver seems to be the Speedmaster plates with all the bracket tree and hoses and bottle mounting brackets that come with... I have it in my mind to just order those through Summit and see their quality before I start buying the rest of the kit around it... If I had those and just the solenoids I would be able to mount them under my carburetors and the solenoids would have any vacuum leaks blocked off??.. I would also probably want to get my starter Jets in there as well??..
I have the 2in risers for my carburetors thought I was going to put on my tunnel ram and now deciding whether I should put a nitrous plates right under the carbs or down low between the spacer and the tunnel ram?? Seems like down low near the action would be the best? if they don't have anything really to do with the carburetor except for the full throttle trigger...
 
Where are the nitrous guru's, please stand up and help a newbe to the world of nitrous with some of your knowledge. :thankyou: :popcorn:
 
I put my bottle behind the passenger seat and shortened the feed line for the reasons you mentioned. I also bought a large Speedway Motors gym bag, then cut the bottom out so that it fits over the bottle & valve. The bag also has an end compartment that zips up, I gutted the inner wall of that compartment as well so that it's zippered opening can be opened to expose the valve. Easy to open from my driver's seat, with the rear window tinting people rarely notice my nitrous system.

I have a purge system and used to use it, but it hasn't been on the car for several years. Purge system is good to have if you use a bottle warmer so you can bleed off excess pressure, but I want to use the nitrous at a moments notice without waiting for the bottle to warm up. For that reason I now calibrate for typical bottle temperatures and leave the warming blanket and purge system at home.

I also have a 50lb digital postal scale that is very handy for monitoring how full the bottles are. A nitrous pressure gauge basically only tells you the temperature of the nitrous, it won't tell you how much nitrous is in there. You need to weigh the bottle to tell how much is in there.

I also have a couple "mother bottles" that I use to keep the 10lb bottles topped off. Think I paid around $400 each for owner bottles full of nitrous. I have two because you want to get every ounce of nitrous out of the bottles that you can get, but when that bottle is empty my local welding supply store doesn't always have another full bottle in stock to swap it out. So far having two bottles has gotten me thru every supply shortage to date. Prices to swap the bottles out varies, so does the amount of nitrous that you can get out of them. Some mother bottles don't have a dip tube so you can flip them upside-down and completely empty the bottle. Others are upright bottles with dip tubes that don't always reach to the bottom. Never know which you are going to get or how long a dip tube is going to be. As a result of that, it's hard to pin down a number for nitrous cost per lb, but filling my own bottles using the freezer method I guess averages around $4 a pound. I also fill a couple friends bottles as well, what they pay me for the convenience ends up cutting my cost of nitrous down to around $2 a pound. If I had more local nitrous friends I could probably end up with free nitrous.

Grant
 
I put my bottle behind the passenger seat and shortened the feed line for the reasons you mentioned. I also bought a large Speedway Motors gym bag, then cut the bottom out so that it fits over the bottle & valve. The bag also has an end compartment that zips up, I gutted the inner wall of that compartment as well so that it's zippered opening can be opened to expose the valve. Easy to open from my driver's seat, with the rear window tinting people rarely notice my nitrous system.

I have a purge system and used to use it, but it hasn't been on the car for several years. Purge system is good to have if you use a bottle warmer so you can bleed off excess pressure, but I want to use the nitrous at a moments notice without waiting for the bottle to warm up. For that reason I now calibrate for typical bottle temperatures and leave the warming blanket and purge system at home.

I also have a 50lb digital postal scale that is very handy for monitoring how full the bottles are. A nitrous pressure gauge basically only tells you the temperature of the nitrous, it won't tell you how much nitrous is in there. You need to weigh the bottle to tell how much is in there.

I also have a couple "mother bottles" that I use to keep the 10lb bottles topped off. Think I paid around $400 each for owner bottles full of nitrous. I have two because you want to get every ounce of nitrous out of the bottles that you can get, but when that bottle is empty my local welding supply store doesn't always have another full bottle in stock to swap it out. So far having two bottles has gotten me thru every supply shortage to date. Prices to swap the bottles out varies, so does the amount of nitrous that you can get out of them. Some mother bottles don't have a dip tube so you can flip them upside-down and completely empty the bottle. Others are upright bottles with dip tubes that don't always reach to the bottom. Never know which you are going to get or how long a dip tube is going to be. As a result of that, it's hard to pin down a number for nitrous cost per lb, but filling my own bottles using the freezer method I guess averages around $4 a pound. I also fill a couple friends bottles as well, what they pay me for the convenience ends up cutting my cost of nitrous down to around $2 a pound. If I had more local nitrous friends I could probably end up with free nitrous.

Grant
There's a speed shop by the airport that says $7 a pound.. and from what I gather they just filled the bottle they don't exchange.. what about the pressure release valve hose? Do have something that exits the cab?..
 
I really want to order the Speedmaster plates? I'd really like some nitrous Guru opinion on them? I want to buy them and examine them and see if they're Worthy? there's so much that comes with them as well... Not to say I would necessarily use the Jets but the lines the brackets would all be great stuff to have... Summit will price match Speedmaster and again Speedmaster says ships within 24 hours so I'm not morning to wait till the end of February like Summit site says but that's not the biggest problem quality is...
Speedmaster PCE151-1001
 
I really want to order the Speedmaster plates? I'd really like some nitrous Guru opinion on them? I want to buy them and examine them and see if they're Worthy? there's so much that comes with them as well... Not to say I would necessarily use the Jets but the lines the brackets would all be great stuff to have... Summit will price match Speedmaster and again Speedmaster says ships within 24 hours so I'm not morning to wait till the end of February like Summit site says but that's not the biggest problem quality is...
Speedmaster PCE151-1001
I thought you didn't like internet gurus lol, jk, seriously order them up and take them to a few local speed shops and get some opinions. There are a few performance shops that will give you an honest unbiased opinion and deal with nitrous. Best case is you discovered a great deal to be passed on to others and worst case you send them back. I'm guessing most guys have never even laid eyes on them as they just buy a kit or used name brand plates so really you won't know until you have them in you're hands.
 
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My blow-off is a hose that attaches to a bulkhead fitting that goes thru the pass side rear floor. It's purpose is if for some reason the safety plug blows, nitrous goes outside instead of inside the passenger compartment.

You really don't know much about a nitrous plate until you see it's spray pattern. It would be nice if the bars are drilled and aligned properly so that the nitrous sprays fairly evenly and is aimed to break up the fuel spray. All you have to do is hook it up to a bottle and crack the valve, you will also be able to see any leaks it might have where the bars are epoxied to the plate.

Grant
 
I thought you didn't like internett gurus lol, jk, seriously order them up and take them to a few local speed shops and get some opinions. There are a few performance shops that will give you an honest unbiased opinion and deal with nitrous. Best case is you discovered a great deal to be passed on to others and worst case you send them back. I'm guessing most guys have never even laid eyes on them as they just buy a kit or used name brand plates so really you won't know until you have them in you're hands.
Got any recommendations on speed shops that deal with the stuff? The only thing I noticed locally is the tuner people using the stuff and a lot of that is dry systems..
 
My blow-off is a hose that attaches to a bulkhead fitting that goes thru the pass side rear floor. It's purpose is if for some reason the safety plug blows, nitrous goes outside instead of inside the passenger compartment.

You really don't know much about a nitrous plate until you see it's spray pattern. It would be nice if the bars are drilled and aligned properly so that the nitrous sprays fairly evenly and is aimed to break up the fuel spray. All you have to do is hook it up to a bottle and crack the valve, you will also be able to see any leaks it might have where the bars are epoxied to the plate.

Grant
Unfortunately I just don't happen to have a bottle of nitrous hanging around LOL...
Kind of trying to get started here...
 
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