Need some advice. If I disconnect the larger A/C lines on my slant Duster. What will need to be done to get it working again. What will I have to replace? fix to get it working again? Also would like to remove some black stuff that was slatted around the fan motor -under hood what should I use to get it off?
No A/C experience?
- Thread starter TF360
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If you have no A/C experience, as the title suggests, the the best thing to do is take it to someone that does. Not bein smart at all. A/C is not something you learn on an internet forum in ten minutes.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
The correct way, is to recover the refrigerant that is in the system. Then disconnect what ever needs to be undone. After replacing whatever needs replacing, add the correct amount and type oil to make up for the oil lost from a leak or replacing components. Connect the system back up using new "O" rings and/or gaskets, and drier. Evacuate the system using a good vacuum pump. Then add the correct amount and type of refrigerant. If the system has had a mechanical failure, or has been empty for an extended length of time, the system should be flushed.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
If you leave anything disconnected seal all the openings, to keep moisture out. You will definatly want to change the drier when going back together.
What refrigerant is in the system, now?
What refrigerant is in the system, now?
Exactly Rusty. Does your air work? if it doesn't, does it have freon in it? If yes it needs to come out before the system can be opened. If the air doesn't work and no freon in the system (you have to check pressures with a/c gauges) you can open the system, make your repai................Sorry, I had 3 paragraphs prepared and gave up.
Demonic
Well-Known Member
What Charlie and Mike said. It has to be immaculate inside. As clean as Larry Sheppard wants your engine. If you want to get fancy, gets caps that match the fine thread compression fittings at the evap and other components. You’ll need a dryer, oil to match your refrigerant, a vacuum pump and a bit more knowledge.Ok- so I will seal all the openings.. The a/c is working- maybe it could be a hair cooler. not sure what kind of refrigerant is in it. I'm going to do some work under the hood, and I want to disconnect the big lines that are in the way
Demonic
Well-Known Member
Be careful with the fittings. Use a good line wrench or good quality open end if you can. A little Kroil or PB blaster on them first if they’ve never been apart.
Sealing goop around the blower motor? Might not need to discharge the system.
Post 12 before you go.
Oops see post 11
Please show us a picture of the goop you are trying to remove.
Show us a photo. They used black sealant back in the day. Sweat tape.
Good. Thanks
pishta
I know I'm right....
if you disconnect the lines, you'll vent the refrigerant. Not good but it does it by itself millions of times a year across America via slow leaks. Once the dry R12/R134 (what year is it, anything after 1993 is probably R134) has degassed, ambient moisture from the air will creep in and saturate the desiccant in the drier. That's why you want to seal it up. If you plan on getting a new drier, they are usually pretty cheap. Also R134a refrigerants produce an acid when exposed to moisture so you want to flush that old stuff out ASAP. You must determine what oil to use for R134. R12 Mineral wont work. POE is universal and PAG is R134a only. Once you get the system back together, you can add your oil then fill with an inert gas to test for leaks with soapy water at joints and condensor. Once its determined to be airtight, vent and pull a vacuum for 30 minutes and then introduce the required weight of refrigerant. It will be on the A/C sticker under the hood if its still intact. Use of a gauge manifold makes this process easy as everything is hooked up at once (vacuum, freon, low side fitting) and is isolated via the valves. You can use a refrigerator pumps inlet as a poor mans vacuum pump. It will pull down to almost 27.0 and @ 100F (running engine bay) thats enough to boil moisture out. let it run for a while. Tighten the valve for the vacuum source and turn off pump. Now you got an evacuated system, ready for the charge. Hook up the refrigerant to the other valve side, and burp the line to make sure there is no air in it. Once everything is hooked up, start the motor and turn the A/C on full. Open the freon side valve and it will start to flow into the system. The compressor will not kick in until there is enough pressure in the low side to kick the safety switch, then it will start to cycle the A/C clutch. Use a scale on the freon tank to get the proper charge. you can use the low side guage but its better to use a scale to get the proper charge. An A/C guy can chime in and flame my process on this but this is how I have done numerous cars. See my post on Propane as a refrigerant if your uber cheap and your **** has a slow leak anyway and you must pay $20 for 12oz of R134, welcome to California. Now in Texas, where its $3.99 a can, go for it.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
Like I stated "the correct way".
You will probably get several replies stating "I did it like this", or "you don't need to do that". You make that decision.
The oil to use is easy. Use PAG 100. It is universal.
Don't forget safety glasses. Some type of gloves wouldn't hurt. A straight shot of refrigerant to the skin can be very painful.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
If it was converted to R-134A, the PAG oil will quickly absorb moisture from the air to form acids, which quickly corrode the innards, in even 6 months. If flushing, I suggest Hella PAO 68 oil, which doesn't absorb moisture, is more efficient, and compatible w/ all refrigerants. Can buy on ebay. I suggest HC refrigerant (Duracool or Envirosafe), but you can find many rants from gomers who know nothing about combustion yet state it is explosive. Millions of cars use it and no fire anywhere. I use in all my cars. R-134A is being outlawed and R-12 is very hard to get. The RV-2 compressor is dependable, but a heavy beast. You can find a post on the slant six forum giving options for newer compressors (mostly Sanden).
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