I apologize for acting like that @Dana67Dart
No spark
- Thread starter bbmopars
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TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
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OK, so you have spark at the coil, but the distributor is saying "Sparks check in, they don't check out." There's a fairly narrow list of things that can cause spark at the coil but not making it to the plugs.
- Distributor cap
- Rotor
- Spark plug wires
- Timing so far off that the spark can't make it to either terminal
Ok l see,did change the cap&rotor.l could look the plug wires and check the timing on it next.
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Check to be sure there isn't anything wonky with the contacts on the cap, or the center terminal on the rotor not being bent high up enough to reach the center contact, etc. New isn't always the same as good!
Can't you read my post,lm gettin spark goin to into distributor by doin that.not comin out. Clown dumb response l did that pulled a plug wire to check.Pull the coil wire out of the cap, stick it on your togue have someone crank it over...
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
didnt they have different rotors? like if its the incorrect one it will fit but not work?
I took Zero offence to it. We have all been there. We all live in our own worlds and it easy to forget that others don't know what's in our heads.
So another question.
- Did your adapted OEM Chrysler electronic ignition system ever work on your engine?
- Pull the dist cap off and verify the rotor is rotating as the engine is cranking.
As noted earlier there are limited causes for a no spark to the plug with spark from the coil.
Some are...
- Carbon traces / grease or other contamination on the inside of the dust cap
- The rotor not turning ( but if it is producing spark, zap zap zap while cranking vs zap once when you release the key. Then the reluctant is rotating and the rotor should also be rotating)
- Plug wires not pressed all the way in
- Bad wires (all wires being bad at the same time is unlikely, but check other wires too)
- The spark from the coil is too weak to jump from the rotor to the dist cap
Posting some photos too would be helpful.
Like the front of your engine with a shot of the dist and coil, the dist with the dist cap off, maybe a video of the spark from the coil and how you tested that. (Some times video can be uploaded directly to FABO but other times posting a link to the video shared on Apple or Google photos works easier.
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Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
I'm just joking with you I figured you'd get butt hurt so I deleted it then added about the different rotors.
Yah it did
I think you're narrowing it down to the distributor pickup.
Put the old rotor back in...
He has spark but not out of the dist cap.
Yep thanks for help with that,that is true l do.l see why with what you asked all that.Your trying to help me diagnose my problem. Wrong of me to be total idiot about it.im sorry
That's the problem with bein an idiot. It jumps around from person to person. My turn is probably next. lol
Hahaha lol
Your fine. Diagnosing problems and figuring out the root cause is not easy.
So back to the issue at hand..
How about some photos of the outside of your dust and the inside without the cap on.
And
Crank the engine with the cap off and report back that the rotor is rotating.
And
A couple photos of the inside of the dist cap, good lighting and I focus photos.
Btw... My bold text is just to make my request stand out from the rest of the text.
I just confirmed that in1969 big block with points uses the same cap and rotor as 76 big block with Chrysler electronic ignition.
SO.. assuming your cap and rotor are for a 63-76 (probably even back farther and forward farther)
The cap to rotor gap SHOULD be proper.
BUT... if you mix and match brands you CAN get a bad fit.
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I changed the whole distributor with a new cap&rotor.l could crank it with cap off tho
Did you put the new one in 180* out...??
That was a though I had but would not explain no spark OUT of the cap.
It would cause a no start condition but there would still be spark at a spark plug wire.
Please do and post a bunch of photos PLEASE!!!!!!
Yep, but based on what I've read so far I'm not sure how the "no spark" at the plugs has been determined. Now it's a complete new distributor, cap and rotor has been installed vs the thing had rust on it etc. No response to is the rotor on the bench, etc. I'll just move on while he sorts it out...
I got spark after replacing the ballast resistor,another distributor. There also something wrong with electronic ignition connector prong. the blue alternator keeps gettin smoked.I have something wired wrong somewhere? Not sure where
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