None of my factory gauges work 65 dart gt

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Shaun65dart

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Like the title says, my alternator, temp, and gas gauge do not work. Speedometer doesn’t work either which is strange because the cable is attached to the back of the Speedo and to the transmission. The lights for the guages all work. The turn signals indicators work, wipers work, but those 3 guages do not. All fuses are in place and fine. What should I check?
 
Honestly I’m going to need a refresher. Been 5 years since I’ve had my dart. Where is that regulator at?
 
Op stated:
my alternator, temp, and gas gauge do not work

Maybe the 5v cluster VR

Do you have a good ground?

If it was just the fuel and temp I would agree a good place to check.

But with Alternator (Ammeter) also not working I would suspect something else.


The lights for the guages all work. The turn signals indicators work, wipers work, but those 3 guages do not. All fuses are in place and fine

Do they work when the engine is not running?

Did this just start one day?

What wiring modifications have you made?

How did you determine the alternator gauge was not working?
 
Op stated:






If it was just the fuel and temp I would agree a good place to check.

But with Alternator (Ammeter) also not working I would suspect something else.




Do they work when the engine is not running?

Did this just start one day?

What wiring modifications have you made?

How did you determine the alternator gauge was not working?
I bought the car a few weeks ago. It has an aftermarket stereo installed and a viper alarm that controls the door locks. The alternator gauge never moves no matter what power on or off. Previous owner said in the 3 years he owned it, guages never worked. I also have zero lights turn on when I turn the key on before the engine starts. Not sure if the dash has been out but I assume most likely at some point
 
my alternator, temp, and gas gauge do not work.
NONE of them are fused.
Alternator gage is not related to the others. It should normally be centered. Since you say it doesnt move with anything (like turning on lights) its probably been bypassed. Post some photos and we can help you trace the wires.
Temperature and Fuel are power through the IVR.
We'll have to look at '65 wiring diagram to see if the power for the IVR comes from the run, or the accessory terminal.

On this, take a look here (FABO) for some examples of the '65 wiring.*
Speedometer is mechanical. There should be a cable from the transmission through the firewall to the back of the speedometer.
Alternator. The Alternator gage is actually an ammeter in the battery line. Why Chrysler called it an alternator gage I don't know, but if it indicates discharge, then the battey is discharging and the alternator is not working. When the engine is running it should show charge or be centered (not charging or discharging).
Temperature, and Fuel level are powered through their own instrument voltage regulator (IVR).

Unlike a house or business electrical system, the fuse box is NOT the central point of power distribution.
On a '65 there was a welded splice behind the instrument panel where the alternator output line and the battery line are joined with the power feeds to other stuff. These wires are always hot because they are all connected to the battery positive.

1965 Main wiring
View attachment 1715901140
Turn signal flasher is powered off the accessory splice and not fused.

*examples
65 dart alternator guage

Bulkhead Connector Stripped Threads?
 
This photo shows the alternator and battery feed connections.
convertible-bulkhead-pass-thru-jpg.jpg

The battery feed has fusible link between the junction on the starter relay and the firewall multiconnection.
Here's someone's photo of a '65 that where the fusible link is obvious. I added an arrow.
upload_2020-1-18_14-35-12-png-png.png
 
Just noticed this. The for sale picture for my car, I noticed this in the engine compartment firewall. And how it looks today with the yellow circle. So something is going on for sure with the wiring the PO did to the car

2F9E554C-819A-4A8A-A537-6EE0411C5BCF.jpeg


6F6A406F-9106-4E4A-A6B3-46B3208AEE13.png
 
I also have zero lights turn on when I turn the key on before the engine starts.
None of the lights should require a key.
You're going to have to look to see what the previous owner did.

For the ammeter look in the engine bay. Follow the alternator output wire and see where it goes. It should disappear into the harness and show up and the bulkhead. Same with the battery line except it should go to the starter relay, then to the bulkhead connector.
Take photos and post if this sounds overwhelming.

For the lighting connections, you can make some simple tests.
upload_2022-4-6_17-51-53.png


The brake light, and dome light get power from the same fuse. Step on the brakes and the brake lightts should come on.
Open the door, or twist the headlight switch all the way and the dome light should come on.
Pull the headlight switch one click out, and the park and tail lights should turn on. All of those are on the same fuse. None should need a key.

Pull the headlight switch two clicks out and they should turn on. They get power from the main splice. Their circuit breaker is in the switch.

Brake warning lamp and IVR get power from the same wire coming off the ignition run terminal on the key switch.
If that wire is disconnected at either the key switch or behind the panel, that could be the issue.

Turn signals get power from the accessory terminal.
Since the wipers and heater fan work can eliminate that line being one at fault.
 
Last edited:
Just noticed this. The for sale picture for my car, I noticed this in the engine compartment firewall. And how it looks today with the yellow circle. So something is going on for sure with the wiring the PO did to the car

View attachment 1715902561

View attachment 1715902562
All I can see for sure is the starter relay was changed. Also there is paint spray on the wiring.

On the upside, with the wire loom instead of cable wrapping tape, its sometimes a little easier to follow individual wires.

I *think* if you take the photos in landscape mode, the forum software won't shrink them so much.
It seems that the software limits the vertical sizing to roughly 600 pixels, but horizontal can be 800.
 
Borrowing this one from @dibbons 'cause it shows the bulkhead connector orientation vertical.
Alternator line connects at the top and the fusible link on the bottom.
upload_2022-4-6_18-13-31.png


Inside the car, the wire from the bottom of the bulkhead connector to the ammeter should be red.


In my opinion, the alarm and door locks should have been installed in the fusebox. There is often an empty slot for options (tach or a/c, or rear defogger).
Sometimes accessoris that weren't used when the car was running would be tied into the red post on the ammeter. Convertible tops and clocks for example.

You'll have to figure out what was done in this case by the installer.
 
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Is that half fast replacement wire going to the lower terminal?
If so, the routing there is correct. Of course it will be best to replace with 16 gage fusible link.

Not seein ganything else connected different than a factory.

The wire to the starter solenoid should be secured somehow, like this one (circled in brown)
upload_2022-4-7_11-36-31.png
 
On the fuel and temp gauges, I think I'd start by removing the sender wire and connect it to a good ground. Then turn the ignition switch to the on position for a second or two to see if that gauge now moves. Don't leave the ignition switch on as it may burn out the gauge. Just on long enough to see if the needle moves. If they now move, you have a sender problem. If they still don't move, I'd pull the instrument cluster and bench test EVERYTHING. You can easily check the speedometer now too by spinning the input shaft. I'd also check (and probably replace) all the light bulbs too while I had the cluster out. It's not all that hard to pull on a '65 Dart. Just make sure you disconnect the battery before you start.
 
Strange that your bulkhead connector is in sideways. There is a little plastic triangle at the top to key it. 1965 was the best year for bulkheads, as yours has the dedicated big feed-thrus for the large ALT and BAT wires, so ignore other's problems with melted plastic. Notice that you have some spare terminal positions if you need to run another wire thru like for AC clutch or washer pump. The terminals are "Packard 56", shared w/ GM cars.

Be careful working on the ammeter, as those wires are always hot. I just threw a spark a few days ago when tightening a bolt at the temp switch and my wrench touched a terminal. P.O. might have done the "MAD Bypass" for the ALT charging, which would make your dash ammeter show little, though not needed for a 1965 (or 1963). Insure the circular plug on the back of the dash cluster didn't come out, but you said the turn signal lights work so at least those are connected, but the individual terminals on that plug can backout and the pins on the board can crack the solder. Otherwise, read up on the voltage-limiter. You can replace the electro-thermal one built into your fuel gage with a $10 external one as most people do. A post on just that currently.
 
The first thing you need to do is go over to mymopar.com and download a free factory service manual. This will give you a complete wiring diagram.
 
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