NOS Super Power Shot or Nitrous Express Hitman Plus?

[glockr]

Kind of leaning towards the NOS 100 - 125 - 150 kit with 10 lb. bottle. The Nitrous Express kit is 50 - 100 - 150 - 200 with a 12 lb. bottle. Main concern is quality and ease of add-ons. Is there any significant difference in quality between the 2 kits? Any difference in ease of add-ons? Mainly I want a limit switch so the nitrous won't hit before a certain (programmable?) RPM and a dedicated fuel system for the nitrous. I realize the add-ons might cost as much as the basic kit.
This will be going on a 318, fresh short block, forged pistons (shooting for about 9.5 compression ration), o.o.b. Speedmaster heads, Torker II intake, and a Holley DP carb (probably a 750). Besides running forged pistons, anything else I need to do? Cast crank is OK? How much does a "nitrous cam" help? Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[Just Send It]

I'm partial to Nitrous Express. I just like the quality of their products and their customer service is good. I have their billet crossbar kit.

Couple of items:

Nitrous loves higher compression, so if you have the ability to raise your c/r at this stage, I'd look into it. Hopefully that block was machined with torque plates as that will definitely improve longevity. Not gonna lie - a cast crank isn't ideal. I use forged rotating assemblies when I build nitrous motors. Cast will be okay, but don't get carried away and spray a moon shot at it.

Your pistons. Even though they're forged, you'll need to call the manufacturer and ask about the thickness of the crown material, and how much nitrous they recommend you throw at it. Also, they'll be able to recommend ring gap specs.

HIGHLY recommend quality main cap, rod, and head hardware. Also, look into quality head gaskets. You need a good fuse in the event you lift a head

A separate fuel system could be warranted, but it really depends on how much you're looking to spray and your pump's pressure. I've used a 250hp wet kit without a separate cell/pump and my A/F never got scary. Just depends.

Camshaft: I'd call a manufacturer and tell them your combination. They'll be able to look at the head flow, c/r, and displacement and tell you which cam you'd need for nitrous. Just keep in mind that your torque converter will need to be on-point to handle the shot as well.

Lastly, I'd invest in a good Programer, bottle warmer, dual bank A/F gauge, and retard switch. The programmer will allow you to ramp the shot so you're not hitting the motor all at once. This will help to keep it alive longer. You can also delay the shot, which is nice if traction is an issue.

The bottle warmer will help you to keep a consistent PSI. And the retard switch is pretty self explanatory.

Start with the lower jets to get everything sorted and make sure the mill isn't eating itself. After that, spray the piss out of it! Nitrous is awesome if it's respected. Just like everything else, if you follow the golden rules, you'll be fine.

 

[ch1ll]

Everything in above post is good stuff. I would recommend you tell your machinist about how much nitrous you are going to use so he can recommend bearing clearance’s and piston ring end gaps. I probably wouldn’t go more that 100-150 with a cast crank.

 

[ch1ll]

Also if you are going to port the heads, have them ported for nitrous. David Visard covers these porting techniques on his YouTube channel, good stuff. A nitrous cam that compliments your heads and intake is a good idea. I would call your cam manufacturer.

 

[el5dart]

omg10

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[glockr]

I'm partial to Nitrous Express. I just like the quality of their products and their customer service is good. I have their billet crossbar kit.

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Lastly, I'd invest in a good Programer, bottle warmer, dual bank A/F gauge, and retard switch. The programmer will allow you to ramp the shot so you're not hitting the motor all at once. This will help to keep it alive longer. You can also delay the shot, which is nice if traction is an issue.

The bottle warmer will help you to keep a consistent PSI. And the retard switch is pretty self explanatory.


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Thanks for the info. Just have a couple more questions...
What programmer would you recommend? By A/F gauge, do you mean the one that has O2 sensors plugged into bungs on each header collector? I'm assuming the retard switch plugs into the ignition box, is there a specific box you'd recommend? Thanks, hope to start ordering parts next week.

 

[Just Send It]

Thanks for the info. Just have a couple more questions...
What programmer would you recommend? By A/F gauge, do you mean the one that has O2 sensors plugged into bungs on each header collector? I'm assuming the retard switch plugs into the ignition box, is there a specific box you'd recommend? Thanks, hope to start ordering parts next week.

For sure.

I have the Maximizer 5 for a programmer and a MSD retard switch for the timing. They're about $150.00 on Summit.

Edit: Here's the module MSD Ignition 8676 MSD Retard Module Selectors | Summit Racing

AFR gauge: Correct. You can also use a single bank style as well, but I like to see both banks. The gauge I use is made by Innovative Motorsports. It's spendy but worth it