Not another 318 VS 360 Thread.

[Cope]

Im sorry to do this to ya but I got questions.

First off I live and drive at 6,250'.
My car is a bone stock 1971 Dart 318 Daily driver.

My 318 runs ok for how old she is. 2 Barrel carter all stock.

I have a Junkyard 360 long block on a stand.

My questions are.

I want to move air, what platform is best at that?

What parts will interchange between the 318 and 360?
Distributer?
manifolds- EXT/INT?
front cover?
Timing assembly?
Oil pump, pan and pick up?

On a long shot..

Cam shaft? ( With new cam and lifters )

Bellhousing? 318-360?

318 Auto trans, Drive shaft and rear end to 360?= destroyed?

If theres any casting numbers I should be looking for as to desirability, Please let me know.

Thanks for the time and advice.

 

[OldmanRick]

Just to get started, and assuming you'll be using a LA360 and not a Magnum.......

Yes[/COLOR]
manifolds- EXT/INT? Yes
front cover? Yes
Timing assembly? Yes
Oil pump, Yes pan and pick up? No

On a long shot..

Cam shaft? ( With new cam and lifters ) For later, depends on what you're going for as far as use.....Daily driver, Hot street, Street strip, Race, etc.

Bellhousing? 318-360? Same

318 Auto trans, Drive shaft and rear end to 360?= destroyed? Not necessarily.....read above.

If theres any casting numbers I should be looking for as to desirability, Please let me know.

Thanks for the time and advice.

I'm just trying to get the ball rolling for you, let us know how you intend to use the car, and that will help us know a better way to procede.

 

[pishta]

everything crosses over except: pan, crank, balancer and pistons. there will be balance issues with "other" convertor...Id say drop a RV cam in the 318 and add a 4bbl and headers. Done.

 

[RustyRatRod]

If you're looking for any type fuel mileage, stick with the 318.

 

[Cope]

I would like to use the car as a daily driver with enough cam over lap that she sounds good and runs strong stop light to stop light.

Keep in mind that I lack @ 16 percent less O2 than most all yall. ( Due to elevation)

If not for my elevation I would say " The only time you have to much fuel is when your on fire"...

so no milage is not a factor. My commute is verry short.

Thanks again

 

[RustyRatRod]

If mileage is not a factor then 360 all the way. Whiplash cam would do what you want.

 

[OldmanRick]

At this point, I'd do a stockish rebuild on the 360, even using cast pistons if you have to overbore. Find a good shop that does meticulous work and do a nice valve job on the existing 1.88 heads. As RRR said, a mild Whiplash or possibly a milder Lunati voodoo will give you some sound. Just keep in mind that the cam choice becomes more critical with stock compression, a stock torque converter, and stock gears.

I can see a 360 in that configuration, with a good dual plane, 600ish carb, and dual exhaust, putting out a legit "installed" 250/260hp. In a 71' Dart, that would be a fun driver imo?

 

[318willrun]

If you want to move air, at 6250 ft., the best way is boost. Turbo or blower....

 

[Dartnut]

The trans will bolt up and work fine. (Probably a 904)
It will last as long as you're not an animal with it such as neutral drops etc.

 

[Dragonbat13]

If sticking with the 318, I would do a four barrel, and dual exhaust. Headers if the budget allows. That with a GOOD, well though out timing curve and carb tune would be fun.

But if anything more, Then I just say go with the 360. I was in the same boat. Found my 318 needed an overbore. Found a decent magnum 360 at the boneyard.

How far is your daily drive? 150 miles a day, maybe the 318. 10 Miles a day, 360 all the way.

As far as the cam, see if you can find some videos of cars with stock camshaft and the exhaust you want to use. After doing that, I decided I didnt need to worry about "the sound" at this time.

 

[69 Cuda 440]

If you're pulling the Engine,

Go with the 360. The Torque difference will be like 'Night and Day'.

 

[ir3333]

if you want stop light to stop light then go with a stockish cam with short duration

 

[Cope]

Thanks guys.
My bigest concer was parts interchange between the 318-360.
I did not want a gaint headache with motor swaping.

It looks like Im gonna start calling around and find a good machine shop to drop the 360 off at.
The last Hi Po motor I built ( LC Engeering Stage 5 Red head) had to be machined 60 miles away. ( No one would bore .80 over in this little town... )

What are folks thoughts on ballancing the internals?
Is it just a waist of time and money on something will never rev past 4,500?

I still need to finish the driver side suspension so I have time, If theres any thing you think Im not thinking about please let me know.

I dont drive the car to work. Its just for getting beer and smokes. What I do not want is a motor that need constant attention, Im more looking for a " key in the front gass in the back" motor build.

Thanks again.

 

[Dragonbat13]

I built a 22R before. I had the same deal with boring a block .080 over. Amazing how thick those walls are.

Im dealing with the same deal as far as rebalancing. If your gonna change rods or pistons or both, its highly likely your gonna end up rebalancing. Some others may chime in otherwise, but that is the conclusion I am coming to.

 

[Cope]

So i got this.
Holley 600-650? DP.

Im thinking of putting it on top of this.




http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wnd-8007

Will this all fit on top of the 360 and hide under a stock hood?
I like hood scoops but MOPAR forward faceing scoops dont work good in snow....


Thanks again for your time and advice.

 

[OldmanRick]

Cope, It's a 650 and that's good intake. Clearance wont be a issue, especially with a standard style drop down air cleaner.

Everything about that carb is good, except the mechanical secondaries. If you keep the stock stall speed and rear gearing, it's gonna be up to your right foot to control the secondary engagement. It certainly can be done, and you can feed the throttle, but if you hammer it off idle or at low rpms, the engine's not going to like it. I'd much rather see a vacuum sec'd carb for your application.

 

[pishta]

balancing internals is up to you. Detroit did it with formulas and neutral balanced components. All the variances stacked up, they still got away with it. 360's were spun after assembly and then balanced "after the fact" due to heavier rods and cranks. If you keep the 360 short block together and keep balancer and torque convert off same motor, your good. 318's were neutral balanced: Mix an match..Drive an LA based V6 Dodge pickup and then drive a Lexus LS4xx, you will feel what a balance job can do. Auto will absorb lots of imbalance, manual wont. Under 4500 is just not as crucial. Ever throw a weight off a tire, you can drive right through the imbalance, same with a motor. The initial cost is a little overwhelming, ~$175 but youll know you you are good to go afterwords. Just skip the titty bar that weekend ;-)

 

[Cope]

Im a huge fan of solid linkage.

Why bother with vacuum?

I dont want vacuum on my breaks let alone my fuel delivery.

No disrespect, Just putin the stick to ya.

 

[Cope]

Got this on the porch today.

Soda can for scale..

This sucker is HUGE!
I hope this fits under my stock hood.
How much of a drop in my aircleaner do yall think I will want?
Isolator or just a good gasket?

oh man Im gettin tingels just looking at this beast...

Thanks again for all the advice.

 

[m880]

If you want to move air, at 6250 ft., the best way is boost. Turbo or blower....

agree with turbo,been used on recipicating aircraft for ever to have power at altitude,i would expect an improvement in mileage also as you are now getting some air to the engine.