NOT another "Green" bearings post

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Nick I

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So just when I thought I was done with this damn Barracuda ('67 383, 4 Speed, Formula S for those that require such info), the last mechanical piece of the car I have not touched has decided to stomp it's feet and throw a tantrum like my 4 year old.

Took it for a test drive and watched the fuel gauge drop like I had a 5th wheel on the back. I did not build a fuel efficient motor for sure, but seemed a bit dramatic still.

It's got an 8 3/4 Sure Grip, 741 factory original rear end. The adjuster looks like it was abused by an air chisel by the fucktards I bought it from (see picture). They replaced the housing seals on it before I took delivery. It needed adjusted as it had close to an 8th of an inch of play on it. Discovered this when checking for brake drag. No can do with the adjuster that's on it.

FWIW, I removed the original bearings to make sure the axel shafts were true and that the spin weld caused by the adjuster rubbing against the axle was minimal. They're good, and I'll be using them because I don't think the car deserves new wheels and tires with due to a larger bolt pattern. Also, I'm tired of spending money on it.

I'd like to put OE style bearings on it and all I can seem to find are the Dr Diff ones or Yukon. Dr Diff is a complete kit with gaskets, billet retainers and adjuster, third member gasket, plus a new set of thrust buttons, I'm looking at $200 all in. Yukon has OE style retainers and adjuster, but no gaskets at all and no thrust buttons for $300 ish. Both use Timken bearings, or at least Dr Diff does for sure.

I know, I know, both OE and the 'Green' setups have pros and cons. I searched the forums a lot before posting this. Greens are cheaper. But, I plan on getting my money's worth out of this car and beating it like it owes me money. Because it does. I've been bent over by this car so many times, I'm about ready to file charges and set it on fire.

Any input from anyone with experience with either, or alternate suggestions (no 'green' bearings) please let me know.

PXL_20220923_030516048.jpg
 
Dangit. Those normally turn by hand. That's pretty funny and sad at the same time. Either bearing setup will work, but I'm a fan of the original stuff. Some fifty plus year original stuff still runnin around out there. That's good enough for me.
 
Dangit. Those normally turn by hand. That's pretty funny and sad at the same time. Either bearing setup will work, but I'm a fan of the original stuff. Some fifty plus year original stuff still runnin around out there. That's good enough for me.

Thanks RRR. I mean, some PB blaster and a bit of heat probably would have fixed the adjuster. But what do I know. I'm under the impression that both have the Timken bearings so that's a wash. Billet anything is hit or miss. I'm leaning towards spending the extra $130 (price difference plus gaskets and thrust buttons) on the Yukon setup unless anyone else has something to add.
 
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“I've been bent over by this car so many times, I'm about ready to file charges and set it on fire.”


Any input from anyone with experience with either, or alternate suggestions (no 'green' bearings) please let me know.



Let me save you all the frustration, I’ll come take it off your hands.
 
I’ve been running the Green bearing since before I ever heard of Green bearings ! Never knew there was ever a problem with running them , till I got on this site lol !! Not sure what all the problems are , apparently many ! I can say I’ve never had a problem with them at all !
 
I’ve been running the Green bearing since before I ever heard of Green bearings ! Never knew there was ever a problem with running them , till I got on this site lol !! Not sure what all the problems are , apparently many ! I can say I’ve never had a problem with them at all !

What car and powertrain are you running these with?
 
“I've been bent over by this car so many times, I'm about ready to file charges and set it on fire.”


Any input from anyone with experience with either, or alternate suggestions (no 'green' bearings) please let me know.



Let me save you all the frustration, I’ll come take it off your hands.

$42,359.86 and it's yours. Not that I'm keeping track or anything ha ha!
 
I’ve been running the Green bearing since before I ever heard of Green bearings ! Never knew there was ever a problem with running them , till I got on this site lol !! Not sure what all the problems are , apparently many ! I can say I’ve never had a problem with them at all !

Same here, mine are going on 16 years of street use and hard beatings and they are just fine....:)
 
I’ve been running the Green bearing since before I ever heard of Green bearings ! Never knew there was ever a problem with running them , till I got on this site lol !! Not sure what all the problems are , apparently many ! I can say I’ve never had a problem with them at all !
I don't think there's a problem with them. Based on my research anyways. I don't have any practical experience and I'm sure they'd be fine. Just want OE.
 
I too am running the version 2 green bearings, 13 years (in my ownership), were in car when I bought it, no issues at all. I just ordered new axles from Dr. Diff and have new green bearings. I wouldn't be worried one iota.

This is not a knock at tapered bearings either, just don't feel all the concern over the green bearings is justified.
 
Go with DoctorDiff! Timken bearings are worth the added price, and his billet adjusters are bombproof. I have a set installed in my Duster, they install just like the original adjusters (with longer axle flange studs obviously). Great parts like everything else DoctorDiff sells. Here’s some pictures, off and on the car. I’ve since gone to DoctorDiff rear disks but the last picture shows them with 11x2.5” drums.

A5FD3966-3490-4B6F-8613-5A132208A1B5.jpeg

89CAA41E-0228-4D37-B724-8961BD1B8233.jpeg

2E207E5B-93F7-4C54-A0BC-9AE265120CED.jpeg


I have also run green bearings, as DoctorDiff himself says on his tech page the 2nd generation ones work fine. I still prefer the tapered bearings though.
 
Go with DoctorDiff! Timken bearings are worth the added price, and his billet adjusters are bombproof. I have a set installed in my Duster, they install just like the original adjusters (with longer axle flange studs obviously). Great parts like everything else DoctorDiff sells. Here’s some pictures, off and on the car. I’ve since gone to DoctorDiff rear disks but the last picture shows them with 11x2.5” drums.

View attachment 1715990282
View attachment 1715990281
View attachment 1715990283

I have also run green bearings, as DoctorDiff himself says on his tech page the 2nd generation ones work fine. I still prefer the tapered bearings though.

Boom! This is the type of input I'm looking for.
 
I think there was a bad batch of green bearings on the market some 15 years ago. This is where the bad rap really took off. That being said, I only run stock bearing and they are better than green bearings when it comes to durability. If I was to build a drag only car it would get green bearings...less rolling resistance. To me its worth the extra cost for the tapered bearings. Mopar knew what they were doing when they (over)engineered these cars.
 
I think there was a bad batch of green bearings on the market some 15 years ago. This is where the bad rap really took off. That being said, I only run stock bearing and they are better than green bearings when it comes to durability. If I was to build a drag only car it would get green bearings...less rolling resistance. To me its worth the extra cost for the tapered bearings. Mopar knew what they were doing when they (over)engineered these cars.

It wasn’t a bad batch, there are two different designs of the green style bearings. You want the style that has the snap ring on the outside of the bearing.

@DoctorDiff covers it in a tech page on his website
Why Green Bearings? - Quality Body Shop Drivetrain
 
I have no problem with original tapered bearings, just go to your local auto store and buy bearings and seals. Pack the bearings and set the end play and you're done.
 
Go with DoctorDiff! Timken bearings are worth the added price, and his billet adjusters are bombproof. I have a set installed in my Duster, they install just like the original adjusters (with longer axle flange studs obviously). Great parts like everything else DoctorDiff sells. Here’s some pictures, off and on the car. I’ve since gone to DoctorDiff rear disks but the last picture shows them with 11x2.5” drums.

View attachment 1715990282
View attachment 1715990281
View attachment 1715990283

I have also run green bearings, as DoctorDiff himself says on his tech page the 2nd generation ones work fine. I still prefer the tapered bearings though.
X2

I have Dr. Diff’s same setup, it’s a nice addition.
 
I’ve been running the Green bearing since before I ever heard of Green bearings ! Never knew there was ever a problem with running them , till I got on this site lol !! Not sure what all the problems are , apparently many ! I can say I’ve never had a problem with them at all !
I have a Bro with a mint #s 71 340 4spd Cuda. Had the shaft pop on one side. Something to do with a groove cut some shop screwed. Or a failed clip... I dunno. He's an old school dude, and told me NO, dont
 
Green bearings for going straight and tapered for turns. Side load with weight must be considered for cornering. Try straight roller bearings on the front to replace the tapered bearings and see what happens. Green bearings would last a long time on most cars. Its the driver that likes to set a car into turns that will notice wear from side loads on a straight cut or ball bearings.
 
I bought a set of green bearings for my 65 Dart about a decade ago for my 8.75 swap. I went to the old auto parts store that’s been family owned forever. Got an old green bearings came in the green box, they’ve worked great. My car is not a drag racer but a daily driver style with upgraded suspension and a 273.
 
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Green bearings for going straight and tapered for turns. .... Try straight roller bearings on the front to replace the tapered bearings and see what happens.

This sums it up 100%. I am no fan of green bearing because I have blown through two set on my 70 'cuda back when it was on the road. Alter-k-tion/ triangulated 4-link car. I cornered that ***** hard.
Like someone else said, if I were building a drag car I would use the Green bearings but I'm not.
I find it comical that some on here try to tell me I'm wrong, that Green bearings are superior, yet, when they describe their car it's
440 30 over 452 heads purple shaft SFT cam ! 6.90’s in the 660 1.50 short time 101 mph !
Sounds lie a real Dan Gurney, huh.
 
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