NSS Wiring Help

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Tims 66 Cuda

Tims 66 Cuda

Mopar mid life crisis
Joined
May 28, 2018
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Location
Poquoson, Va
First off let me say electrical is my weak point. Ive put a 76 727 trans in my 66. I have the ground that runs from the relay to the NSS. How do I go about wiring up my reverse lights. I also have the original harness that went to console. Any help appreciated.

Thanks, Tim
 
Tims 66 Cuda said:
First off let me say electrical is my weak point. Ive put a 76 727 trans in my 66. I have the ground that runs from the relay to the NSS. How do I go about wiring up my reverse lights. I also have the original harness that went to console. Any help appreciated.

Thanks, Tim
Click to expand...
Someone should come in and give you some better advice than this but I think if it's two wires it should just be a ground connection. Likely you already have power to your reverse lights it's just that switch that makes the connection to the ground.. or not...
 
Yes I have to convert to a 3 pole switch. There is a reverse light swtch on the B&M shifter. I,m trying to figure out how to get it wired correctly.

Thanks, Tim
 
Tims 66 Cuda said:
Yes I have to convert to a 3 pole switch. There is a reverse light swtch on the B&M shifter. I,m trying to figure out how to get it wired correctly.

Thanks, Tim
Click to expand...
Oh that simple then you don't need the one on the transmission at all you just hook it to the one on the shifter. Again you should have power going to your reverse lights or if you have power going through that shifter button it's a switch that makes the connection when it gets into reverse... Actually I think that's how I connected up a 57 Chevy recently...
The shifter has a momentary switch for Park and neutral which is your neutral safety switch or Park safety switch whatever it has to be in one of those for it to crank over. And then it has a little switch for reverse which activates power or ground...
 
Likely the three wire is a power that's either given to the reverse lights or to the neutral safety switch..
 
Remember I just know enough to be dangerous lol there's somebody here who will probably be able to tell you the colors of the wires and exactly what they do just give it a little bit... On a times I'll just post what I do now or what I don't know to keep the thread moving so people will look at it and give you a good answer...
 
The 76 727 NSS is 3 prong. The center prong is for the NSS the other 2 work the back up lights. Just make a connector and or use the the 3 prong connector and hook your 66 single wire to the center wire only. The NSS should work. I have a 77 727 in my 65 Belvedere and have it wired that way.
 
I,ve got that. I,ve seen it suggested before. I,m trying to figure if I need to use the other 2 connectors on the harness or tap into the switch on the shifter.

Thanks, Tim
 
Sorry about that,I read the post and was thinking that you were using the shifter switch for the back up lights already. So it sounds like your car was a console shift from the factory.Are you using a factory console shifter ? There should be 2 wires from the harness to the shifter,and one wire for the light that is usually orange. The other 2 wires according to the factory service manual are violet in color these can be used to connect the NSS going to each of the 2 extra wires/connections on the 3 prong plug. One of the violet wires should show power with the key on.The other violet wire will run back to the backup lights. Either violet wires can be hooked to the plug on either side as the switch completes the power transfer to the lights.
 
You can use either the shifter switch or the transmission switch. On earlier cars the reverse lights did not appear a t the bulkhead connector unless it was a "stick" car (and maybe even then only for 4 speed cars, I do not remember)

If you go to MyMopar and download 'the closest you can find' of a shop manual AND get the 66 aftermarket wiring diagrams on that page, they will show the connector routing for that wiring.

You need to disconnect it at the column, run them out into the engine bay, and connect to the two outer NSS pins. I assume? you already have the 3 pin connector for the transmission

The original wiring was down near the bottom of the column if column shift, and on the console shifter if that was used
 
Yes the car was originally console shift and I have the original harness to the console. I dont have power up in the car as of yet. Finishing up the engine bay and will start on the dash soon. I,ll paste and keep your post for reference later.

Thanks again, Tim
 
"I'd be tempted". Since this is a console car I'd be tempted to add a grommet and run the wiring right through the floor down in the console area and over to the transmission switch
 
If your car is an original console automatic, I'd use the factory wiring and connect it to your B&M shifter backup switch if it has one. The factory switch is just a simple 12V in, and the backup light bulb load out. You can also use the NSS switch instead if you like. As has been mentioned, the center pin is for the actual neutral safety, and the outer pins are the backup light section of the switch. It would mean getting the proper plug for that switch and doing a bit more wiring to connect it up. You pretty much will need to get that plug wired in anyway if you want to get the neutral safety part working, so not a bad choice either way.
 
I just happen to be at the same point with my wiring and found this post. I think from reading many other post in addition to this one, I have my wiring
laid out correctly. But if anyone sees an error please let me know. The way I understand the NSS wire is from the middle pin on the (727 NSS) to the (S) stud on the solenoid? Also, do I jumper the wires on the mini starter since I am using the ford solenoid to trigger the 12vdc ? This is strictly a drag car application.

244715084_1219685518544472_3173415579269177666_n.jpg
 
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That is NOT a Ford solenoid. Ford solenoids have the coil (magnet) grounded. The "S" terminal gets 12V from the key and energizes the solenoid. The second small terminal "if present" is the "I" coil ballast bypass circuit

To use a "Ford like" solenoid you need one with a so called "insulated base" or else retain the Mopar starter relay, or use a Bosch style relay, and fire the Ford relay from one or other of first two

If you insist on using a Ford, you need a 2 terminal NSS like on your shifter, IE start wire from key--through NSS---to S terminal of Ford relay

Another route you can go if you insist on having a "Ford like" solenoid is to find the oddball AMC Ford style relay which has THREE small terminals and was made EXACTLY for that purpose---to interface the Chrysler NSS (behind AMC engine) and fire a Ford built starter

One such is
Starter Solenoid 1M1025 AMC AMX Eagle Pacer Jeep CJ7 Cherokee 1979-87

AMC1.jpg


AMC2.jpg


You can see the one side has the same two terminals (and wired the same) as Ford, IE the I and S terminal, but instead of the coil grounded, the other end of the coil goes to the button terminal on the BACK side, which hooks to the Chrysler style NSS

DO NOT use a so called "continuous duty" solenoid for starter use.........they are wired "like you want" but the coil is "weaker" (for continuous use) and the contact ratings are much less current
 
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I went with the Ford relay based on a number of posts that referenced this sketch.

p8qI1hX.jpg


I liked the concept of having a remote solenoid that mounts to a panel I made
the houses the coil and mallory ignition, inside of the car. I can easily change the solenoid to an isolated ground type, which appears to make
sense.
 
^^The "red neck"^^ way out with a NSS and Ford solenoid, would be to mount the Ford solenoid on an insulated mount, then just connect your NSS to the mounting ears of the solenoid
 
I think I'll swap out the ford relay with the AMC type and maintain the circuit in my diagram. (If I'm picking up what your laying down?)
When doing so, does the mini starter require a jumper as pictured?
 
YES if you use an external solenoid, you need to jumper the Mopar one.

I am not particularly "in favor" of this method I believe it adds unneeded complication with questionable addition to safety. But do what you want
 
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