NuMetal?

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naji408

naji408

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Question for my body veterans. I bought this car from a Mopar enthusiast who supposedly restore many Mopars. I’m Questioning one thing though, he used NuMetal epoxy puddy around the perimeter of the rear windshield to cover up rust some spots. The rust didn’t reach the roof, but on the channel. It looks solid, but I’m timid about spraying epoxy primer over it if it isn’t going to last and/or bubble.

Has anyone tried Numetal, and should I leave it, or go the hard route and cut it out and weld strips in?

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IMHO

You should remove at least some of it to see what is really going on underneath.

Maybe you can see the back side and see what's going on?
 
If the rust was not removed, it will come back. Its a simple fact and it doesnt matter what you cover it up with.
 
Valid points on the rust. That’ll be a plan to make sure there’s none, but let’s say I take the lazy route and use the NuMetal, has anyone had any good results with it?
 
Seal it up, and never drive the car in the rain or wash it with a garden hose. Just clean with a spritzer using distilled water and a terry cloth towel to keep it clean.

Keep the water and moisture off your car and don't park the car on a humid floor or poorly ventilated garage shack.

If it's not getting wet it's not activating the rust. These classics I always keep the water away from them.

Don't want to give them a reason to start bubbling out, especially with a nice paint job on them.

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Rust takes three things to happen. Metal, moisture and air. If you can completely seal it, so moisture and air cannot get to it, you will likely win. There are lots of products on the market for it.
 
George Jets said:
Seal it up, and never drive the car in the rain or wash it with a garden hose. Just clean with a spritzer using distilled water and a terry cloth towel to keep it clean.

Keep the water and moisture off your car and don't park the car on a humid floor or poorly ventilated garage shack.

If it's not getting wet it's not activating the rust. These classics I always keep the water away from them.

Don't want to give them a reason to start bubbling out, especially with a nice paint job on them.

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Yeah, my Duster has never seen the rain. Also, I’m in Silicon Valley, CA so we hardly see any humidity.

I can say though, I wish I knew the things I know now when I had my Duster Restored. I plan on making a lot more changes when coming to the body prep.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Rust takes three things to happen. Metal, moisture and air. If you can completely seal it, so moisture and air cannot get to it, you will likely win. There are lots of products on the market for it.
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I think the bigger concern is using the NuMetal epoxy instead of welding I. metal patches. It’s super solid, but I just want longevity, and if I decide to sell it I wouldn’t want to screw the next guy.
 
naji408 said:
Question for my body veterans. I bought this car from a Mopar enthusiast who supposedly restore many Mopars. I’m Questioning one thing though, he used NuMetal epoxy puddy around the perimeter of the rear windshield to cover up rust some spots. The rust didn’t reach the roof, but on the channel. It looks solid, but I’m timid about spraying epoxy primer over it if it isn’t going to last and/or bubble.

Has anyone tried Numetal, and should I leave it, or go the hard route and cut it out and weld strips in?

View attachment 1715989879

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It depends, how old are you? Personally, I would grind that **** out and the rust it's hiding and do it right. But I'm only 50, and I don't want any rust bubbling up over the next 20 years.
 
naji408 said:
I think the bigger concern is using the NuMetal epoxy instead of welding I. metal patches. It’s super solid, but I just want longevity, and if I decide to sell it I wouldn’t want to screw the next guy.
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I understand. There are some really good products on the market these days. My friend Matt runs a restoration shop just down the road. He uses a similar product. It has metal in the name but it's not Nu Metal. I forget what it is but that stuff works really well. If you're second guessing it and it sounds like you are, get it outta there and start over.
 
Ottmundr said:
It depends, how old are you? Personally, I would grind that **** out and the rust it's hiding and do it right. But I'm only 50, and I don't want any rust bubbling up over the next 20 years.
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That's probably the best choice.
 
Maybe someone else can chime in and let me know.

if there is a dime size rust hole, and all the rust is cleaned out, can I use a mig welder to just slowly close it up, or do I need to put a piece of sheet metal?
 
My Duster ( I Was Blessed with) was restored by one of the Baddest Mopar dudes around, works for Caddy full time. Well, they took it to Carlisle to roll, it didn't make the auction. Cat was Ina barn till Brian's Dad died. Kept Outside, on the Grass, in Tampa, for over years. It's what I'd call rust free, BUT there are a few tiny bubbles popping in the trunk gutter. Cars 2 shades of red, I'm gonna have to get it matched. One day..... After I grow a pair and grinder up, what to me is, 1 of the best looking rides I've EVER had. Moral? Don't keep yer **** outside when rainy season is half a year of Thunderstorms every year... and the Humidity is.98% when it aint
 
RustyRatRod said:
I understand. There are some really good products on the market these days. My friend Matt runs a restoration shop just down the road. He uses a similar product. It has metal in the name but it's not Nu Metal. I forget what it is but that stuff works really well. If you're second guessing it and it sounds like you are, get it outta there and start over.
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All-Metal? Is one I think
 
I use "metal 2 metal" on places like roof to quarter seam. I don't recommend "all metal", not very good stuff. Never used Nu metal so I cant comment on it but im sure its a similar polyester resin with metal mixed in. Should be waterproof and would be fine as long as the prep was good under it.
I would sand that out in an area to see what your working with. There is a reason why painters don't like to paint over other peoples bodywork.
 
Ironracer said:
Dude, if You make the right Decisions, You have Yer Whole life ahead of Ya, cut it out, and close it up! Unless the climate police come to take it to the crusher....
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My biggest fear, I’m in the Bay Area Climate Police Headquarters. That’s why I bought this Road Runner. My fear is that all the cars I’ve ever dreamed of will get crushed.
 
naji408 said:
Maybe someone else can chime in and let me know.

if there is a dime size rust hole, and all the rust is cleaned out, can I use a mig welder to just slowly close it up, or do I need to put a piece of sheet metal?
Click to expand...
Tried that, that hole may and probably will turn into a quarter size . Better to cut it out larger and add solid piece of metal. You dont know what it looks like on the back side. Been there done that, adding a new piece of metal more work but piece of mind.JMO jesse
 
I have never used that type of product. I always thought the purpose of that, was so the filler would pass a weak magnet test!??
A smart guy once told me, many decades ago.. He said son " these old Mopars were built back in the day to drive and drive them hard. If a few survive 50 years, that would be a miracle!"
 
As far as I am concerned metal fillers are to be used when the thickness will be more than what ordinary fillers can be used for (1/8"?). I'll use a metal filler like All Metal when I install new quarters instead of lead. As with all fillers its as good as the surface you are applying it to and its not structural.
 
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