Nuts and bolts

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Tadams

Tadams
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My wife says I've lost it, but when I disassembled my 65 formula s I sorted the nuts and bolts by size. Now I'm putting things back together I noticed the bolts have different markings. I found the correct valve cover ones. These may not be correct, but some have 3 dots across the top. Some have a large circle with smaller circles inside.
I think I've watched to many episodes of graveyard cars. Thoughts
 
If you post pictures of the hardware someone maybe able to tell you were it belongs. In this case size does matter and so does length.
 
Probably doesn't. Just one of those dumb thoughts I have.
 
Just go to the hardware store and get all new. Won't cost that much and will insure that you have plenty to work on in the future when that nice Taiwanium gives up the ghost.
 
How correct do you want to be? Are you planning to have this car concours judged? Why are you doing this? I am trying to do a concourse resto on my '68 cuda and I describe this as a form of insanity. When disassembling a mopar with concourse in mind, arranging nuts and bolts by size is a mistake. If you pay attention to head markings, you will see that there is no common usage of any size bolt. Usually each bolt/screw is unique to it's location. Even this changes within a production year and between years. As you can see by some reply's, that some people are content with hardware bolts. I don't mean to discourage you- just give you a heads-up going down this path. But if you insist, we will try to help.
 
My wife says I've lost it, but when I disassembled my 65 formula s I sorted the nuts and bolts by size. Now I'm putting things back together I noticed the bolts have different markings. I found the correct valve cover ones. These may not be correct, but some have 3 dots across the top. Some have a large circle with smaller circles inside.
I think I've watched to many episodes of graveyard cars. Thoughts

You should separate them according to application, not size....
 
I purposefully put the wrong ones in the wrong places just to drive the purest nuts. I don't care what others think about my stuff. And most that scoff don't even have a car ! :lol:
 
3 dots sounds like a grade 5. Low level below grade 2 pan and valve cover bolts will possible be unmarked while engine fasteners would be marked. Even the rod nuts are marked with 3-6 dashes
 
Hardware bolts most generally look like crap on a Mopar engine. I've noticed that Mopar bolt length usually in between the hardware bolts-then they use the flat washers to make up the correct length.
Years ago I had a friend that had a Stage V Hemi headed 440 put together by a Chevy guy. Needless to say he used hardware bolts with the above flat washers and lock washers on top of that, mainly on the water pump housing. It ruined that beautiful engine. Those Stage V Hemi heads are works of art, he had a crossram on top of that. I think it dynoed right at 800 horsepower. Just my thought. Get an AMK catalog for the correct bolts.
 
My wife says I've lost it, but when I disassembled my 65 formula s I sorted the nuts and bolts by size. Now I'm putting things back together I noticed the bolts have different markings. I found the correct valve cover ones. These may not be correct, but some have 3 dots across the top. Some have a large circle with smaller circles inside.
I think I've watched to many episodes of graveyard cars. Thoughts
I always replace everything underhood with new stainless bolts. Look great and fight dreaded condensation. I use alloyboltz kits .Not correct but on an early -a who cares but a complete purist.
You saw what my 64 looked like & sold for at auction. Just sayin.
To each there own.
 
R/T Specialties has original bolts. You can view them and locate them in your stash.

I am not hung up on originality, else I WOULDN`T HAVE PUT A 505" WEDGE IN A 68 340 s CAR.
I like grade 8 bolts in everything, as long as possible, full thread engagement w/o bottoming out.
 
I always replace everything underhood with new stainless bolts. Look great and fight dreaded condensation. I use alloyboltz kits .Not correct but on an early -a who cares but a complete purist.
You saw what my 64 looked like & sold for at auction. Just sayin.
To each there own.
I did a 340 all in stainless allen heads and polished them on a wheel before I installed them. Looked great but was a pita working on it. I bought them by the lb. at a swap meet.
 
I have about 5 coffee cans of factory Mopar bolts,,, But never have the ones I need !!!:BangHead:
 
These guys dont know what thwy are talking about....
Just toss them all in a 5 gal pail like I do. It makes the reassembly much more fun.

I have buckets of mopar bolts... never throw one out unless it is unusable.
 
I've watched to many episodes of graveyard cars.

One episode was too much.

That said, the more original cars you take apart, the more differences you will see.

Some original cars that have never been apart before have different head stamps used in the same applications.

When bagging & tagging, it is best to note where they came from & photograph any differences noticed at the time when possible.
 
manufactures will use several vendors for components so that if one has issues it wont shut the line down. I however found that the fasteners tend to be pretty consistant as far as marking within a reasonable range of years.

After you have taken enough of these cars apart you can identify almost all of them in your sleep.
 
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