Odometer fix?

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65MagnumFish

65MagnumFish
Joined
Jun 3, 2018
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Location
Zeeland, MI
I did something potentially stupid. I removed the odometer to clear garbage out and now it won’t go back in or spin. Anyone could help that would be great. Also a pick of how the tabs on the numbers line up with the straight piece in the back would be great. Thought it would simple . Oops?
 
There are number of teeth lines cast into the gear housing. Rotate the housing until the line matches up to the dot at 6:00 on the tranny case.
 
Its his spedo/odometer he took apart.
Correct. The odometer was taken out and thought I could pop it back in. I can get it in but the numbers are wonky. As when the lowest number moves instead of the next set of numbers rolling over it moves all the numbers. Didn’t know if the little tabs are set against the steel bar or notched in. I have a 64 cluster I might use as a reference. I should have left it alone in hindsight.
 
Correct. The odometer was taken out and thought I could pop it back in. I can get it in but the numbers are wonky. As when the lowest number moves instead of the next set of numbers rolling over it moves all the numbers. Didn’t know if the little tabs are set against the steel bar or notched in. I have a 64 cluster I might use as a reference. I should have left it alone in hindsight.
There's a little forked plate attached to each dial. The notch in that forked plate needs to straddle a bar to hold them all in alignment.
 
There's a little forked plate attached to each dial. The notch in that forked plate needs to straddle a bar to hold them all in alignment.
Yesssss! Now we’re on to something. There are 2 forked areas on each dial? Is there a way to tell which goes where? Feel like I’m working on a rubics cube. I’ll give it a try and let you know how it works out. Thanks for the guidance. It’s the last thing before cluster goes back together.
 
Yesssss! Now we’re on to something. There are 2 forked areas on each dial? Is there a way to tell which goes where? Feel like I’m working on a rubics cube. I’ll give it a try and let you know how it works out. Thanks for the guidance. It’s the last thing before cluster goes back together.
I don't have one out where I can take a photo, but, you need to line up all the "forks" and lock them in place on that bar.
 
Sometime back in the 70s, I remember someone saying that's one way to tell if the mileage had been rolled back. Once they were taken apart and mileage changed, the numbers wouldn't line up properly. Over the years, I have seen lots of cars on ebay and on this site where the "low mileage" or "survivor" car odometer is shown in the pictures with the numbers all up and down.
I had several cars that rolled over from 99999.9 back to 00000.0 and started counting again, and the numbers were always perfectly straight.
Now, when looking at cars that are nearly 50 years old, I am more concerned with the condition of the body and interior regardless of miles on the drivetrain.
 
Sometime back in the 70s, I remember someone saying that's one way to tell if the mileage had been rolled back. Once they were taken apart and mileage changed, the numbers wouldn't line up properly. Over the years, I have seen lots of cars on ebay and on this site where the "low mileage" or "survivor" car odometer is shown in the pictures with the numbers all up and down.
I had several cars that rolled over from 99999.9 back to 00000.0 and started counting again, and the numbers were always perfectly straight.
Now, when looking at cars that are nearly 50 years old, I am more concerned with the condition of the body and interior regardless of miles on the drivetrain.
All set gentlemen. Got the odometer back in but gained 10,000 miles! Funny how things work out. I am happy it went in and works, bottom line. Told the wife we only have 5,000 miles to drive to get to 0 again. My entire drive train will be rebuilt or new and the body completely redone. I even removed the factory body defects so it’s freakishly straight. Thanks everyone for the help. Much appreciated.
 
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