Oh NO!! not another small block build

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Princess Valiant

A.K.A. Rainy Day Auto
Joined
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ok, so the story behind this engine is that it was rebuilt by the previous owner.
It came in a 71 duster that I ended up scrapping the car but that is another story for another day. The kid claimed he went WyoTech so I assumed at first the engine was probably what he said because that is supposed to mean something...I guess.

So I had the engine out and going into a 74 Duster. Then I noticed a few things that seem off such as only some not all of the freeze plugs had been replaced. It looked like RTV sealant oozing out from the head gaskets....Ummm is that a thing to do??

So I just decided to take it all down and see what I have here just to be sure and then I can have a documented rebuilt engine with receipts and dates marked

So a gasket kit already in stock, a reeses buttercup, and a Harbor Frieght engine stand and we begin.....

Only complaint I have about the engine stand is it sets the engine too high. I need to cut it down and weld it. the way it is, I am eye level with the carb and air cleaner (when on the engine) … step stool added and now I begin

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So the heads are first to come off. With an assistant I get the heads off and to the workbench.

They are really stuck on with the RTV sealant. Had to get a prybar in there

All the sealant is under the Felpro Permatorque gaskets....black sealant on one side and orange sealant on the other side …...kinda odd

Also there are a lot of dead bugs and debris in the cylinders ….hmmm...rebuilt??

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Had the altenator bracket on the wrong side and plenty of washers

seems to have quite a bit of slack on both sides of the timing chain....good thing I am checking this rebuilt motor

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Got the cam out and the cam looks great, definitely not the original cam

Not sure why it looked like sludge on the back of the cam however it wipes off to reveal a relatively nice cam surface

I did notice the plate that holds the cam in the block had three bolts and there are holes for four bolts, so I think a bolt was missing which is even more reason I am glad that I didn't trust this engine and took it down.

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there was new oil in the pan and the oil filter was new and empty of any oil ….not sure why that was.

However I found two dead grasshoppers in the oil pan. The oil pan is pretty beat up, definitely seen better days

When I turned the engine upside down, a bunch of dry rust came out of the water jackets

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I got the rods out and then I am really starting to wonder how this engine ever ran with any reasonable oil pressure

with an assistant, I got the crank out. Mains and the crank don't look too bad, probably the best part of the assembly so far

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Got the cam out and the cam looks great, definitely not the original cam

Not sure why it looked like sludge on the back of the cam however it wipes off to reveal a relatively nice cam surface

I did notice the plate that holds the cam in the block had three bolts and there are holes for four bolts, so I think a bolt was missing which is even more reason I am glad that I didn't trust this engine and took it down.

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Rani, some of those were sent from the factory with 3 bolts, but this one has been gone through... The pass side upper cam thrust plate bolt should have a small hole through the middle of it for oiling...

See my thread on how the front of a small block goes together...

How to Assemble the Front of a Small Block


Who would run a single row timing chain???? :realcrazy:

Get a double roller....

Edelbrock Performer-Link True Roller Timing Chain Set

You don't need sealer on the head gaskets.... :wtf:
 
Ok the moment came when I realized this engine is in dire need of a rebuild.

Check out the cam bearing. WOW!!!! how the hell isn't this cam destroyed?!?!?!?!

I think this engine was cam slapped without changing the cam bearings ...ever

probably the original cam bearings. This shows me why it is Rani policy to change cam bearings on all engines built in my shop.

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Ok the moment came when I realized this engine is in dire need of a rebuild.

Check out the cam bearing. WOW!!!! how the hell isn't this cam destroyed?!?!?!?!

I think this engine was cam slapped without changing the cam bearings ...ever

probably the original cam bearings. This shows me why it is Rani policy to change cam bearing on all engines built in my shop.

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Look at the back of the bearings for a date code....
 
the back of the rod bearings say 6- 76 in very small stamping

I don't see any dates on the cam bearings

So those bearings are from June of 1976... I would say that they are original.... :rolleyes: :mob:

who rebuilds an engine without changing the bearings???? :realcrazy:
 
the block is completely stripped out. None of the cylinders look bad at all and the ridge is minimal and only is felt at the tip of a finger nail.

Its nice that I have a set of 340/60 mounts for another project. These really look like re-pop Schumacher replacements. Those are going on the shelf because I am using spool mounts on this engine for the 74 duster.

I am trying to keep everything organized with my new yuppy (as my dad calls them) style shop organizers LOL

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all of this for this car. 74 Duster bought from a fabo member. @dart_68

It is a 318 and the 318 in it is unknown, its possible it runs but who knows. Someone started taking parts off the 318.

The 360 will wake it up regardless and the 318 will be taken down and if it is a good core then it can be used in another project like the scamp next to it

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the block is completely stripped out. None of the cylinders look bad at all and the ridge is minimal and only is felt at the tip of a finger nail.

Its nice that I have a set of 340/60 mounts for another project. These really look like re-pop Schumacher replacements. Those are going on the shelf because I am using spool mounts on this engine for the 74 duster.

I am trying to keep everything organized with my new yuppy (as my dad calls them) style shop organizers LOL

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Get a 4" - 4 1/2" ball hone from Napa and run it through each cylinder before assembling.... It will give you a good surface finish on the walls and will take the ridge off...

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/compare
 
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Get a 4" - 4 1/2" ball hone from Napa and run it through each cylinder before assembling.... It will give you a good surface finish on the walls and will take the ridge off...

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/compare
my self, I wouldn`t depend on using a ball hone to remove ridges, it will not do the cyls. the same honing that much.
Low h.p. street grocery getter , no performance at all, el cheapo , maybe if the ridges ain`t that bad. I still wouldn`t ! Bearings are into the copper , worn out -----------
 
You thinking about do a quick refresh in the garage or is it going to the machine shop?
 
You thinking about do a quick refresh in the garage or is it going to the machine shop?
I'm sure it is.
If it doesnt go out for machining, may as well throw it all in the trunk and push it off a cliff.lol
The last 2 inches of the bore can feel smooth and also be .003 out of round.
 
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