Oil Change Frequency

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Jax

Jax

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What is the suggested oil change frequency for a build 410 small block.
My engine is running on a regular gas and racing fuel, no alcohol or whatsoever that can hampered oil quality.
I am using Lucal Oil conventional 20W-50

Racing Only Motor Oil

It is mostly a drag car with very limit street use.
 
Jax said:
What is the suggested oil change frequency for a build 410 small block.
My engine is running on a regular gas and racing fuel, no alcohol or whatsoever that can hampered oil quality.
I am using Lucal Oil conventional 20W-50

Racing Only Motor Oil

It is mostly a drag car with very limit street use.
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I would try and change mine twice a season at the beginning in the middle.
 
Lol, sometimes when I can afford it LOL like $85 for 8 quarts of Penn grade and an oil filter LOL sometimes I would need the money for gas to get to the racetrack!
 
If you change twice a season do it mid season and end, that way clean oil is sitting in the motor all winter.
 
mderoy340 said:
If you change twice a season do it mid season and end, that way clean oil is sitting in the motor all winter.
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I'm not trying to bust your nuts here or anyting but exactly what does that oil sitting at the bottom of the pan do to the motor while it's it's all winter? I'm saying this because literally I don't change my oil till I can afford to the next spring.. LOL
 
Also someone needs to remind me why I'm supposed to change it while it's hot?
Wasn't it previously hot and all the oil was draining and running down? Now hasn't it had plenty of time to get all down to the bottom?
 
j par said:
I'm not trying to bust your nuts here or anyting but exactly what does that oil sitting at the bottom of the pan do to the motor while it's it's all winter? I'm saying this because literally I don't change my oil till I can afford to the next spring.. LOL
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Acid contaminants float to the top and sit there and chemically attack any metal at that level. Read any manual for winter or long term engine storage, change oil and filter is always in there.
 
mderoy340 said:
Acid contaminants float to the top and sit there and chemically attack any metal at that level. Read any manual for winter or long term engine storage, change oil and filter is always in there.
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Ring around the collar..lol
 
It sits in the pan all winter and collects moisture, but I guess thats what you can do.

I'd just drain it and zip tie the dipstick to the battery cable after disconnecting it so I dont forget.

I change mine by color which seams to be about every 2000 miles on my current 410 only because I live at the beach, its solid roller and driven on the street.


When I race I run a K&P removable screen type billet oil filter Store and change the oil A. By color or B. As soon as found any metal/parts debris in the oil filter screen ...lol
I'm funny, it kind of depends on what's in the motor and what I'm doing with it. If you pull the dipstick wipe it on your finger and it doesn't have any golden aura 'around darker center' left on it 'or green or red depending on the oil you use'...then carbon is taking over and diminishing the viscosity and overall film strength to hang on the bearings, lobes etc.

Now I'm running a street roller of course I've up the pressure beyond what they told me I needed because I just couldn't sleep at night with that little seat PSI... So I change a little early maybe just to keep it extra clean.

My 340.... every 7k with 2 filters along the way, but only with Schaeffers oil.
 
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...ummm....splain sumthin Lucy...... if the oil sitting in the pan collects moisture all winter, and the acids rise to the top, why put new oil in to collect moisture/acid film over the winter? Let the old oil do it. If moisture and acid are that great of a concern, shouldn't you change the end of the season new oil for more new oil at the beginning of next season? Unless I'm missing something here, besides a few brain cells that tree limb knocked out of my head years ago, seems a waste?
 
Depends on how many runs I have on the oil and filter,but usually when I run most of the season I like to change it every 25-30 runs..
 
ragtopfury said:
...ummm....splain sumthin Lucy...... if the oil sitting in the pan collects moisture all winter, and the acids rise to the top, why put new oil in to collect moisture/acid film over the winter? Let the old oil do it. If moisture and acid are that great of a concern, shouldn't you change the end of the season new oil for more new oil at the beginning of next season? Unless I'm missing something here, besides a few brain cells that tree limb knocked out of my head years ago, seems a waste?
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for winter storage fill to top of valve cover breather, that way whole engine protected.
question: have any of you bothered to spent the few $'s on doing an oil analysis? Blackstone Labs it's pretty cheap and you won't be throwing away good oil, which = good $$. i've done the 74' a few times over the years. i change it at 8000mi. the heads have never been off and it has over 100,000mi, but the castrol hi-mileage does a good job until then
 
stroked340 said:
Depends on how many runs I have on the oil and filter,but usually when I run most of the season I like to change it every 25-30 runs..
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What was you reason to use that baseline to change it every 30 runs down the track? Oil pressure drop ? Or something else?
 
For winter storage I usually change the oil and filter, drain the fuel and either run the engine for a minute or two before draining the fuel system until the clean oil circulates, or pull the distributor and oil pump drive and use a drill to build oil pressure and crank the engine over with plugs out to circulate oil everywhere. Then fog the engine with oil and back off the rocker arms to seal the cylinders. Cap the exhaust to keep critters out.

Circulating the fresh oil gets fresh oil to the bearings, ...
A good spring drive or warm up will burn off the condensation.

Other option I use is to start the car every couple of weeks to keep condensation down after the fall oil change. I make sure fuel bowls get filled before turning it over.
 
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