Oil coming out at intake. Please help!

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Logan Horsman

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Hey guys, I have a 69 440 HP.

I put an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake on it and I am getting oil coming out the half circle port on the intake side. Why is this? Is this supposed to be blocked off with a special intake gasket?

It seems to be only on the driver side.
I am pretty new to any type of engine work.

Please help!

Thanks in advance
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Logan Horsman said:
From that thread it sounds like intake bolts
Click to expand...

It could be, although that seems excessive to a degree.

Did you use any kind of sealant on the intake bolts when you put it together?

If not, that "could" be where it's coming from, oil can wick up the threads and pool on the intake like what you are seeing.

Do you have a working PCV in place?
 
It has a new pcv valve.

First intake bolt pulled has no thread sealer on it. Likely found the culprit, will post back once im done and confirmed

Thanks again guys
 
The way it's pooled up in the cavity around the exhaust crossover port leads me to believe the the valve cover gasket is pouring but may i ask what that big gob of debris is at the forward center bolt? If that is a gob of silicone or the like under the gasket flange it is probably the source of the leak. I don't remember if there is water in that part of the head but it possibly could be crack in the top of the head down to the opening around the exhaust crossover. On a side note, I think you would be doing yourself a great favor if you go into the tech section and read the article on setting up a Holley carb for a Mopar, there should be a bell crank type bracket bolted onto your side linkage that will help your throttle cable alignment and assure proper travel of pedal without any binding or stickiness going on.
 
IMO
the only way the oil can get on top of the flange there is if it's creeping up the bolt threads, probably forced there by crankcase pressure,and aided by the wrong intake bolts. The factory had special bolts there with a pressure ridge under the flanged head.
I agree as to the throttle cable bracket, it needs to be way higher; check out the kink on the firewall side of it.That is a disaster waiting to happen. Plus without the proper stud on there, I can't see how the secondaries can fully open.
Also, I see you have no KD linkage so I'm guessing you took it off for a reason.
 
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AJ/FormS said:
IMO
the only way the oil can get on top of the flange there is if it's creeping up the bolt threads, probably forced there by crankcase pressure,and aided by the wrong intake bolts. The factory had special bolts there with a pressure ridge under the flanged head.
I agree as to the throttle cable bracket, it needs to be way higher; check out the kink on the firewall side of it.That is a disaster waiting to happen
Click to expand...
Thanks once again, I am curious about the PCV as well. That looks like a small block kick down cable bracket assembly. It has been a long time ago, but if I remember right, the big block bracket was shaped completely differently to bring the throttle cable and kick down linkage up even with the carb. A little modification/fabrication could help a whole lot.
 
I do know I need to get a different throttle cable bracket. This is the one it came with so I made it work for now.

I pulled the intake bolts out and put thread sealant on them, it seems to have slowed down but still seem to get some coming out at higher RPM.

The gob of stuff is a clump of mud. I didnt grab it before the picture because it was hot.

I have a new PCV valve, so dont know why there would be positive crank case pressure?

Temp gauge gets up to 194°, the heads shouldn't get hot enough to boil the oil though right? I noticed the oil in the cavity is bubbling while the engine is running when I checked it. Never checked it right after turning it off though. Could have a head gasket leak too?
 
Logan Horsman said:
I do know I need to get a different throttle cable bracket. This is the one it came with so I made it work for now.
Click to expand...

Where's your throttle pressure linkage as mentioned above? (AKA kickdown) Or is this a manual trans?

If it's an auto with no modifications you'll want to get that fixed ASAP. You risk burning it up.
 
The oil is boiling because hot exhaust is passing under it.

Did you use a new belly pan gasket when you installed the intake?
 
Oil is bubbling in cavity because the crossover is running close to exhaust manifold temperature, a real hazard in the unlucky event of a fuel leak getting mixed with it , it's almost already burning... I would recommend taking the two center bolts out, cleaning with carb cleaner, and coating them with Permatex aviation form a gasket and reinstalling. Follow up with cleaning the valve cover gasket and mating surfaces, put a very thin swipe on valve cover gasket ridge on head, put gasket in place and put a light coating of the magic goop on top of it. Re torque after everything gets hot. Be careful with this stuff, wear gloves and, be conservative as possible, a little goes a long way and anti-seize is clean in comparison! Imagine hot road tar mixed with liquid rubber, I use it only when all else fails...
 
Hyup, unless your trans is set up to not use variable throttle pressure, you can fry that trans pretty quick. A bandaid is to tie the KD/TV lever back on it's stop. This is the lever just below (See note below) the shift-lever on the trans. This will buy you as much time as you need to get the proper linkage installed. If it shifts too hard or too late for you, you can lengthen the tether, but you really ought to also disconnect the secondaries then, or again risk frying the trans. Drive nice until you get it sorted.

Edit, Below is wrong. Should be above, thanks to Jadaharabi's keen eyes.
 
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AJ/FormS said:
Hyup, unless your trans is set up to not use variable throttle pressure, you can fry that trans pretty quick. A bandaid is to tie the KD/TV lever back on it's stop. This is the lever just below the shift-lever on the trans. This will buy you as much time as you need to get the proper linkage installed. If it shifts too hard or too late for you, you can lengthen the tether, but you really ought to also disconnect the secondaries then, or again risk frying the trans. Drive nice until you get it sorted.
Click to expand...
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The lever above the gear selector lever.
 
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