Oil cross over or not I need help please.

Small Block Mopar Engine

  1. Retroboy

    Retroboy Well-Known Member

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    I'm looking to increase my 360 LA oil volume to the rod bearings by drilling numbers 2,3,4 galleries from the main supply gallery (lifter) to the crank. I have solid roller lifters. Do I need to block the second lifter gallery supply and fit the valley oil cross over or does it need the restriction in the right supply gallery to force the oil back down to the crank. I have had some ordinary looking rod bearings but the mains are fine. I spin up to 7000 rpm
    often.
    Cheers
     
  2. Jadaharabi

    Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    • Retroboy

      Retroboy Well-Known Member

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      Yes Most of it and it makes me feel I don't need the cross over just block off the second lifter gallery after the number 1 main and the drivers side lifters can be splash oiled.
       
    • MOPAROFFICIAL

      MOPAROFFICIAL Well-Known Member

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      I run solid rollers and I don't block anything.


      Best of luck with whatever it is you're trying to accomplish by whatever means you may think or have been adviced to do.
       
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      • Jadaharabi

        Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        If you block the drivers side, you will need to run a crossover line to oil the rocker arms.
         
      • Retroboy

        Retroboy Well-Known Member

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        Thanks for the additional brain fodder. I definitely need to increase oil to the rods and after considering some replies and info and I think misinformation, I'm going to enlarge the supply galleries to the crank to 5/16" and restrict flow to the heads to increase flow to the mains.
         
      • MOPAROFFICIAL

        MOPAROFFICIAL Well-Known Member

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        It's TRUE , the main saddle/galleys are sometimes not finished drilled to size... but once they are...it oils fine.

        Misinformation or... 'application' that's different 'in some way' ,maybe more accurate.I run solid roller lifters, oil band style morrel brand... no oiling issues!!
        Drill, plug, hard line your heart out if that's what you wanna do....
         
      • Jadaharabi

        Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        There is a constipation of the oil flow at the back of the motor. This is underneath the oil pressure sending unit in the main line going up to the passenger side galley.
         
      • AJ/FormS

        AJ/FormS 68 B'cuda fb, Form S clone ... 367/A833/3.55s FABO Gold Member

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        My streeter has hit 7000 thousands of times since I built it in 1999, without the crossover; jus saying.
        Streeters with 3.55s,on the way to 65mph, are only revved out for a second and change, and ending at ~5700@85mph in second gear. With street suspension, most of the time yur gonna burn right thru first gear anyway so you might as well short-shift into second..It would take a heck of a cam to want to spin 7000, often.
        I must admit tho, that hearing my 367 screaming thru dual 3s at 7000, is rather addictive, so I do it every chance I get.
        I did, however, do all the other mods, plus a HV pump to help cool my topend, and a road-race pan,for a modicum of aeration control and possibly some extra cooling.
        The most important thing, IMO, is to keep air out of the oil circuit, especially to the rods. I lost two 340engines before starting with oiling mods. On one it was the #1 rod bearing, and the second was #3, go figure. Both times the factory oil level was a little low. Both times the rpm was under 6000. I was just out joy-riding.
        When restricting oil to the topend, keep in mind that the rocker shafts only get oil every second crank revolution, and they only get oil for a few degrees of cam rotation. The oil that pisses out everywhere up top, after lubing your rocker arms, is what cools your valvesprings, and those 16 buggers are some very hard-working boys. I did the reverse, and tried to supply more oil to the top. My Hughes springs have over 80,000 miles on them, and the last time the engine was freshened was in 2004.
        ____________________________
        For a 340/360 (I can't speak to others)
        to properly use a shift-rpm of 7000, you would probably select a cam to peak at 6000 or a lil more. so, yur looking at 255*@.050 or more. The Mopar 292 peaks at about 5700, give or take, and IIRC is 249*@.050. That's one heck of a street-cam, even for a 360. I yanked it after the first summer. With iron heads, it wants something like a 3200 hi-stall, and more than 3.91s.
        With my A833, that cam was OK with 4.30/4.10s but that put a serious damper on hiway cruising. An automatic with a hi-stall might get away with 4.10/3.91s. But all of those suck when kicked down into First at 32mph. In an automatic streeter, IMO, 3.55s to 3.73s,are the right gear because@32mph; 3.55s will get you ~3600 in first gear and 3.73s will get you ~3800. These are right around peak torque with a typical ~228@.050 cam, and the tires will instantly light up; let 'er rip. You'll need some traction control,lol.
        BTW, for a car equipped with 3.55s and an A833; 32mph is 2710 in second,3750 in first. With a 3.09 deep-low, it is 4360..... lots of choices, none of which normally lead to 7000 rpm. Unless, like me, you just crave it,lol.
        And finally
        With a 904/3.55s you could hit 60@6800..... at the top of first gear; I like it.
        My combo hits it at 6380 in first-over.
         
        Last edited: Feb 15, 2019
      • Retroboy

        Retroboy Well-Known Member

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        Hey All. I need help here please. I've been around cars and racing for 46 years - Since I could get a drivers license. This is my first and maybe my last Chrysler unless some thing magical happens! While I like some stuff they have yikes this 360 LA has been a nightmare. I have come over from FoMoCo and after an absence from the drags of a few years I think now maybe I should have listened to others and gone to a cheap belly button SBC . No I had to go down the path least traveled LOL. Parts are non existent in Australia because Chrysler went bust here in the early 1980's and first hand knowledge is limited. This engine is in a slingshot dragster has 4.3 gears a 904 with an 8" turbo action converter. The engine is pretty mild has small dome KB pistons and I'm going to a Comp Cams solid roller. I have Lunati Lifters which seem to fit okay and don't expose the dumb bell section in the middle, so yes I rev it every time it runs. So I have had problems with the rod bearings showing some transfer of material and maybe something that resembles blistering on the cap side while the rod side (upper) bearing shows a bit of oil starvation. Mains looks fine. I have used bi metal bearing for years without incident. The machine work on the crank and rods is sweet and I run .003" clearances. My crankshaft guy has retired so I took my crank and rods at a shop that does a lot of Sprint Car stuff for a fresh set of eyes.
        That's the back story. so I have now drilled to 5/16" the galleries 2,3,4 that supply the mains
        and have restrictors in the rocker feed gallery to help keep the oil down at the crank. I don't see any advantage with the cross over? What am I missing. As was pointed out earlier I can't block the oil to the drivers side of the lifter gallery because the rocker gear needs that gallery to oil. Help me here before I go crazier!! Also how far up the rear gallery from the oil pump does that plug sit? I have 1 5/8" from the bottom of the block.
        Cheers
         
      • nm9stheham

        nm9stheham Well-Known Member

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        Are you using full groove main bearings or ones with the groove only on the top half (in the block's web)?
        Are all rod bearing showing this problem, or just some? If just some, which ones?
        What rods are you using?
        How is clearance being checked/measured?
         
      • AJ/FormS

        AJ/FormS 68 B'cuda fb, Form S clone ... 367/A833/3.55s FABO Gold Member

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        It stops when it hits a step in the bore size
        I also drilled out the feed lines I forget how big,(perhaps 9/16 or even larger,I forget), to and from the filter, plus from the pump and "ported" all the turns smooth, including inside the pump. I doubled up the filter base plate as an anti-balloon measure, and drilled 4 additional holes thru both. I did not use the 90* adapter. Then drilled out the filter retaining fitting. And finally used a larger than stock supply pick-up. I think there is a sticky in the tech section.
        I didn't do the X-over cuz I'm a streeter and seldom is the engine working hard.
        In your case, I would do it,for the protection it offers. It's cheap,effective. and not hard, and it might save you thousands of dollars; you'll feel it on the driver tool during installation. Shine a lite in there and poke a rod (or the shank of the drillbit you used to enlarge the passage) in from the filter pad; you will see the rod at the end of the passage. I tried to port that corner too.
         
      • Jadaharabi

        Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        .
        Do not drill any of the passages to 9/16 unless you are trying to ruin the block. Drill the rear passages to 1/2.

        If you read all of guitar Jones's thread you would have seen a link to this thread where we continue to talk about the oil system modifications.


        My take on the oiling system crossover tube for the small block
         
      • MopaR&D

        MopaR&D Nerd Member FABO Gold Member

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        Isn't restricting oil to the rockers kind of pointless since they get such a small "momentary" bit of pressure in each engine revolution? I also saw it written probably 20 times in my Mopar Performance Engines manual "DO NOT RESTRICT OIL TO THE ROCKERS" on any Mopar V-8...?
         
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