Oil Mods 440

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tooslow

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There is lots of info on this , almost to much , confusing .
A fresh look
I drive my Dart w a 440 at Road America and other tracks for fun, track days . I also drive it to work and pretty much all over
I have trouble with the main bearings failing.
446 CI RPM is 3500 to 6000 for 20 minutes at a session
10.5 to 1
Crane Roller rockers 1.6
Source one AL heads
M1 intake
EFI Carb
Milodon Pump HV
8 quart road race pan w swivel pickup and baffles
3 quart engine accumulator
Purplestick 557 lift dur 296 108 centerline
Manual Trans
> Should I use full grooved bearings or 3/4 ?
> too bush mech lifters or not to ?
> I have read about opening up some of the oil passages with a reamer ?

Any suggestions besides use a smallblock or an after market block are appreciated

Thank You,
Bill
 
every big block I have built for myself or buddies has had, full groove mains and the oil passages to the mains opened up with a ream. I also debur the block and clean off any major slag. you may want to consider an external pick up in that pan. a single line should be plenty. that's my 2 cents, opinions will vary but its worked for me and anyone I have built one for.
 
What is happening to the mains? How long does it take to happen? How do the rod bearings look? What are the clearances on the mains and rods?
 
There is lots of info on this , almost to much , confusing .
A fresh look
I drive my Dart w a 440 at Road America and other tracks for fun, track days . I also drive it to work and pretty much all over
I have trouble with the main bearings failing.
446 CI RPM is 3500 to 6000 for 20 minutes at a session
10.5 to 1
Crane Roller rockers 1.6
Source one AL heads
M1 intake
EFI Carb
Milodon Pump HV
8 quart road race pan w swivel pickup and baffles
3 quart engine accumulator
Purplestick 557 lift dur 296 108 centerline
Manual Trans
> Should I use full grooved bearings or 3/4 ?
> too bush mech lifters or not to ?
> I have read about opening up some of the oil passages with a reamer ?

Any suggestions besides use a smallblock or an after market block are appreciated

Thank You,
Bill


Full groove mains only help with Rod bearing issues.

I hate accumulators. If the pan is made correctly there is no need for it. All that plumbing and extra crap reduces flow and pressure. You'd better have a big pump and keep the pressure way up.

You can open the oil feed galleries up to 9/32 (.287) because the factory was pretty sloppy doing that kind of work.

Of you are killing mains that's a pan/volume/pressure issue.

Or you have an internal leak somewhere.
 
If you're staying below 6000 or 6500 rpm then just make sure the oil feed holes to the main are open and not full of slag. Use 3/4 groove main bearings if they are available. You can experiment with oil pumps and springs to get an oil pressure that you're happy with. It is a balance of pump volume, oil viscosity, oil temp and bearing clearance.
 
If you're staying below 6000 or 6500 rpm then just make sure the oil feed holes to the main are open and not full of slag. Use 3/4 groove main bearings if they are available. You can experiment with oil pumps and springs to get an oil pressure that you're happy with. It is a balance of pump volume, oil viscosity, oil temp and bearing clearance.

Pretty much where I was going. Basic machining has to be good, clearances need to be decent (high end of stock or a little bigger), the feed holes clear, I like the 3/4 groove myself but the bearing dujour is full grooves, and it "should" be fine.
 
I'm a fan of 3/4 grooves. When I've tried using full grooves I was left running heavier oil with minimum oil pressure requirements.
 
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