Oil Pan and Rear main parts advice

Slant 6 Engines

  1. Naplm00

    Naplm00 Well-Known Member

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    64 dart, cleaning up oil leaks. I want to do this once so id like to get the best gaskets available.

    For oil pan:

    Tennessee Gaskets Silicone set Oil Pan Gasket Set - Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth & Truck Slant 6 - Silicone Gaskets - Real Gaskets Tennessee
    OR
    Felpro OEM style (cork)More Information for FEL-PRO OS12705C1
    OR
    Some rubber one I haven't found yet?


    For Rear main seal:

    Felpro OEM style with a TON of little side seals More Information for FEL-PRO BS40240
    OR
    426 HEMI rear main seal https://www.scegaskets.com/store/ch...er-short-block/sce-gaskets-part-number-26605/ Ive seen some posts that this is better quality, does not come with the side seals ?



    Ill be doing this on my back, on the ground, jacking up the engine to the firewall and wood blocking it. Sucks but Ive done it before on other vehicles. Looking for that tribal knowledge especially on the rear main seal. Thanks in advance
     
  2. Naplm00

    Naplm00 Well-Known Member

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    Thoughts?
     
  3. nitro_rat

    nitro_rat FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    My tribal knowledge on the rear main says pull the engine. A slant is easy to yank.

    Stock gasket for the oil pan. Silicone is worthless unless it's molded in one piece. You'll still have to RTV the corners. Use High Tack on the corks and it won't leak.

    I prefer the rope seal on a slant and you can't do that in the car. It's possible to make the upgrade hemi style rear seal work in some instances, you have to verify that the lip of the seal will sit on a smooth surface on the crank. Maybe possible to do this on YOUR back under the car but not on MINE!!!
     
  4. Naplm00

    Naplm00 Well-Known Member

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    Good info , appreciate it !

    I'm going to pull the pan and see if there is a rope seal on this thing
     
  5. Naplm00

    Naplm00 Well-Known Member

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    I ended up receiving both the viton and the rubber rear main seal set.

    Viton is marked on the package "nitro funny car high performance"

    It is EXACTLY the same as the rubber one down to the same mold numbers on the seal itself .
     
  6. nitro_rat

    nitro_rat FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Viton has a higher temperature rating than rubber.
     
  7. BillGrissom

    BillGrissom Well-Known Member

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    I used the Real Gasket oil pan gasket on my 1964 225, and also on my big-block recently. Seems wise. They began making silicone gaskets for aircraft piston engines, which is certainly more critical. No experience on the sealing since not driving them.

    It is easy to change the rear oil seal with engine in the car. The slant has a separate aluminum seal holder as I recall, but even removing a main bearing block, like in a V-8 is not hard. The 2-piece crank seal pushes around. Insure the joint between the 2 pieces is offset from the block line, and I recall use a drop of superglue between the 2 parts. I think all rear seals I bought came with the side seals. I use Viton wherever I can. Unlike nitrile rubber, it lasts almost forever. I think it is the inner liner in both bio-diesel fuel hose and "barrier" AC hose. Similarly, I replace all vacuum and coolant hoses with silicone when I can. While you have the rear seal holder out, verify a gomer didn't strip the oil pan tapped holes. Now is the time to fix with a threaded insert (Heli-coil). Don't overtighten yourself, since easy to strip aluminum threads.
     
  8. Naplm00

    Naplm00 Well-Known Member

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    I pulled off the pan today. Was extremely easy to get it out.

    I remove the upper big nut from the driver side motor mount and the two bolts from the passenger side motor mount.

    Jacked it up underneath the transmission pan with a wood block. My pan is cast aluminum.

    Plenty of room to get all the bolts and remove the pan easily. Only four of the bolts required a universal joint.

    My oil leak was definitely from the rear main seal. It was an original rope seal and was totally shot. I was dreading removing the whole engine to pull the rest of the seal out but then I talked to my neighbor and he gave me a tool called the sneaky Pete.Essentially a flexible corkscrew that you put into the seal from underneath the car rotate the engine and pull at the same time. Rope seal yanked right out cleanly.

    I then used a flexible bore brush to clean the engine side seal groove. Unfortunately the crank mating surface was pitted slightly and kind of ugly. I took my time with red Scotch Brite while turning the motor by hand and cleaning up as much as I could. Couple final blasts with air some pipe cleaners etc to get it as clean as I could.

    I put a small amount of black right stuff on the back of the seal that touches against the engine block. on the lip side of the seal I used heavy duty green grease.

    I inserted the seal while rotating motor slightly if it got hung up and it went in without issue. I left a small amount of seal protruding from the block approximately 3/8in.

    I then cleaned the seal retainer thoroughly and placed the two side seals into the assembly. Unfortunately the side seals that came with the supposedly correct kit were slightly undersized so they also got a treatment of black right stuff.

    The other side of the seal was then inserted with a small amount of black right stuff on the back edge and green grease on the sealing lip. I also used a small touch of black right stuff on the mating ends of the seal.

    Snapped into place and then tighten to 30 ft pounds.

    I couldn't finish the job today because the paint was taking longer than expected to dry on the oil pan.I'll give an update tomorrow and whether or not the silicone gasket sucks ass.
     
  9. Naplm00

    Naplm00 Well-Known Member

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    good news/bad news. oilpan gaskets are great. bad news leaking from the rear main still. im assuming the crank is shot
     
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    • nitro_rat

      nitro_rat FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      There are grooves in the crank to lubricate the rope seal. If the lip on your new seal is on these serrations it will leak. That's why you can't retrofit a lip seal in the car. There's a one-in-a-million (ok, 1 in 25) chance that the lip will fall in a good spot. The seal needs to be set up with the engine out of the car. The catch-22 is that the engine has to be out to change the rope seal too.

      Pull the engine and tweak the thrust bearing and or the seal retainer to get the lip seal properly aligned or pull the engine, yank the crank and slap in another rope/clean and soak the old one in mineral spirits to swell it back up; oh wait, trash day was yesterday?
       
    • Naplm00

      Naplm00 Well-Known Member

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      no grooves on this crank., the sealing land was flat but pitted.
       
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      • Aaron65

        Aaron65 Well-Known Member

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        I think we've all been there and feel for you...you spend a bunch of time and follow all the instructions, and you fire it up with no difference. Ugh! Take a breather and regroup. Good luck!
         
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