oil pan - rear main - rope seal?

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RustyRatRod said:
I think it's time to take a step back. Look at what you're trying to do. You're trying to get by with the absolute minimum labor required. Just stop. Just go ahead and DO the work required to do the job right. Not gonna worry about the rear main? And the rear seal? seriously? That means all the work you've done to this point is for nothing. How much of a pussy are you? Do you want the thing fixed or do you want to just band aid it the rest of its life. Fix the damn thing and fix it right and stop wasting our time and yours.
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Don’t put five bottles of STP in your engine! It’s not oil!
I questioned the 5/20 because it is not what your engine requires 10/30, 30W 10//40 or 40W, the 5/20 is for late models and there engine design.

The late model engine is designed for absolute efficiency trying to get the last half mile per gallon out the gasoline possible and the thin oil does that so bearing clearance are built with that in mind. There also built to run with fuel injection so fuel wash in the oil isn’t the problem it was with carbureted engines. So use the correct oil not 5/20.

Part of your massive oil leak might be using the thin as piss oil you have.
 
I would use diesel not gas
Then may trans fuild after
If your going that deep then Need to pull the intake too
Thats where all the crud is going to sit
 
Oldiron440 said:
Don’t put five bottles of STP in your engine! It’s not oil!
I questioned the 5/20 because it is not what your engine requires 10/30, 30W 10//40 or 40W, the 5/20 is for late models and there engine design.

The late model engine is designed for absolute efficiency trying to get the last half mile per gallon out the gasoline possible and the thin oil does that so bearing clearance are built with that in mind. There also built to run with fuel injection so fuel wash in the oil isn’t the problem it was with carbureted engines. So use the correct oil not 5/20.

Part of your massive oil leak might be using the thin as piss oil you have.
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Not good results with 15w-40 as well. I skipped over the 10w ideas.

I have no oil leaks. Just no oil pressure once thermostat is starting to open.

Verdict is worn pump or possible valve stuck.

This morning tuning the carb I was getting 60 psi ice cold.

Back to 3-5psi once its warm again.

It does/can make decent pressure, so the crank and bearings shouldn't be that sloppy. But there maybe was a reason it was ran without a thermostat and fed a 25w-50 diet

I'm still debating to pull pan where it sits or nurse it to the shop and pull engine.

Its not tow friendly.
 
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I think I'd pull the engine and put it on a stand to do all that work where I could see it all better and clean it all better. It might even be faster that way.
 
New high volume pump.

Did it in the frame. It was ugly. beer kept telling me it was easier. Didn't do the rear main, and used 1 tube of rtv on the old brittle oil pan gasket.

Makes nearly 80psi cold, and a nice slow 500rpm idle @ at least 180*, as the fan trips around 200*, she makes 35psi on SAE 60 weight on worn bearings that were new 3 timing chain and gears ago.

**** it. Don't care. And worked out perfect.

But its hard to tune the carb with 3 hydraulic pumps turning off the crank plus a torque converter the diameter a 55gallon drum. Seems it exceeds California emissions with or without A/C.

But its a brute. Cashed out $14000 on that tube of RTV. Don't judge it.
 
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Oh yeah, the spray wand and gasoline worked out the best.

Even used some copper tube for the stand back and spray gaslone up.

Highly recommend doing it outside in the breeze.

Not really something to d o indoors.
 

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