oil priming engine

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Snake

Mopar Nut
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Hi guys my shop that has been rebuilding my 360 is jerking me around now.Me thinks because I took my 340J heads somewere else for the rebuild, they wanted 2 grand for a simple valve job but i got them done for 854 were would you go.Now there saying well maybe 3 weeks befor they get at it.Man alls thats left is install the heads intake prime the engine.Ok so I maybe doing the top end myself no bige been there done that,but never primed a new engine.So some tipssss would realy help here guys,and what tool do I need to spin the pump,or make my own tool.I know a drill is a must.So step by step on how to prime the new 360.
 
You need a drive shaft for the oil pump. I took an old drive, cut off the gear, and welded it to the end of a pushrod years ago. Works fine for me. You need to make sure it's at least 20" total length. You need to have someone turn the engine over while running the oil pump with a drill. Just turning the pump doesnt get oil up to the heads.
 
If your hardware store has hex stock that might work... But I think maybe welding a 5/16 allen wrench with the 90° cut off on a peice of straight stock. The hex has to be hardened steel.
 
I would think a 5/16 allen bit tacked or even JB welded into a cheap 16" extension with an adapter for the drill would work. Cant be too expensive. All you have to do is get creative in how you get from the drill to the pump without letting anything fall into the engine ie bits and such. I think you have to turn a small block clockwise and like Moper said, turn the engine slowly by hand at the crank to make sure the holes line up to get oil to the rockers.
 
I used 2 oil pump driveshafts to make 1. Just like in the above post, I machined off the gear teeth off of 1 shaft. Next I cut the shaft off the other. I then welded the "shaft only" into the top of the "missing teeth" drive.

Before using it, I put a generous amount of greast on the underside of the toothless gear, as to not scar the bushing. I then spin it at slow rpm with the oil sender unit removed. Once I see a drip of oil at the sender hole, I stop and install a plug or sender. Putting a gauge there too would work.

Once I reinstall the "plug". I'll spin the drill at med speed for 2 min, rotating the crank every few turns.

Good enough for gov't work....
 
If your hardware store has hex stock that might work... But I think maybe welding a 5/16 allen wrench with the 90° cut off on a peice of straight stock. The hex has to be hardened steel.

Some machine shops carry 5/16 hex stock. You will need about 16 inches of it. Get them machine off the hex portion off the shaft 1 1/2 inches either side of center. (three inches total) This will stop any wear on the intermediate bushingwhile priming. And yes it doesn't have to be hardened steel for this application.
 
And it needs to be fully welded. JB weld or tacking wont do it. It takes a LOT of torque to spin the pump.
 
I agree, even speed shops carry them.....and at 7.95, my time is worth WAY MORE THAN THAT.
 
lol.. All depends. No shops near me have Mopar ones, and Summit bags me $10.95 to "handle" it. I own a welder and the pushrod and drive came from an RB core. Took me about 20 minutes.
 
Make sure you rotate clockwise, and protect the bushing(black tape, or grease) I turn the crank around by hand a couple of times like others have mentioned. I just read an article that said to open up the oil pump, and fill it with assembly lube also. Never done that, but it sounds like a good idea. It's pretty eassssssy.
 
I just read an article that said to open up the oil pump, and fill it with assembly lube also. Never done that, but it sounds like a good idea. It's pretty eassssssy.


I was just reading that in MM magazine. R Bolig was doing it for his Valiant's new engine. I thought it was a good idea too. I might drop my pan and do the same since my pump is new.
 
You should always pull the cover and inspect a new oil pump. I use a "sludge" of white lube and assembly lube in the gears. It can take some effort with nothing in there to get it primed. Put something gooey in there and it primes instantly. I dont use grease or straight white lube in there because it can get into lifters and stick them initially. (until it melts)
 
i cheated a little. when i put my crate motor in i also installed an accusump. when it was ready for its first fire, i just pulled a lever and it ran 80 lbs. through the entire motor. you can actually hear the oil going through everything.. pretty cool.

Manila Feb 09 221_1.jpg
 
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