Oiling vs non oiling pushrod

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alex perini

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Looking for pushrods for my 440 build need to be 9.150 long ball to ball I've found tons of oiling push rods but none non oiling I can see my luniti lifters have oil hole but I know mapar uses the shaft mount system for oiling will I see any issues if I get oiling pushrods is my question
 
alex perini said:
Looking for pushrods for my 440 build need to be 9.150 long ball to ball I've found tons of oiling push rods but none non oiling I can see my luniti lifters have oil hole but I know mapar uses the shaft mount system for oiling will I see any issues if I get oiling pushrods is my question
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I have never done it that way, but I don't see any issue with both rocker and pushrod oiling.
Doubt you would even see any oil pressure difference running both.
 
I should mention that I am running Harlan Sharp rockers. Maybe bushed or stamped rockers would be affected differently. I will also be restricting the rockers a little.
Both HS and Crower techs thought it was good to run both.
 
mbaird said:
I should mention that I am running Harlan Sharp rockers. Maybe bushed or stamped rockers would be affected differently. I will also be restricting the rockers a little.
Both HS and Crower techs thought it was good to run both.
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Ok and how are you restricting.them ?
 
.060 insert in oil galleys under rocker stands is what was recomended.
What rockers are you using?
 
Ball/ball with stock rocker = not what I would do

Ball/cup with rocker adjusters = good idea to have a positive pressure oiling source at adjuster.

my 2 cents.

Any of the PR or some cam companies should have pushrods to fit the bill.
 
crackedback said:
Ball/ball with stock rocker = not what I would do

Ball/cup with rocker adjusters = good idea to have a positive pressure oiling source at adjuster.

my 2 cents.

Any of the PR or some cam companies should have pushrods to fit the bill.
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They are not stock rockers 1.6 prws with ball to ball
 
Comp makes PR that have the holes in that length. Look in their catalog.

I might use the oil through with a non stamped rocker. Depends on how much oil gets to the when in use.
 
crackedback said:
Ball/ball with stock rocker = not what I would do

Ball/cup with rocker adjusters = good idea to have a positive pressure oiling source at adjuster.

my 2 cents.

Any of the PR or some cam companies should have pushrods to fit the bill.
Click to expand...

That I agree with.
 
mbaird said:
I should mention that I am running Harlan Sharp rockers. Maybe bushed or stamped rockers would be affected differently. I will also be restricting the rockers a little.
Both HS and Crower techs thought it was good to run both.
Click to expand...


I don't think you want to restrict the oil on needle bearing rockers,
You actually need more oil, a bushed rocker has a lot of surface area on the shaft, a needle bearing has very little compared to the bushing, I think you should talk to Harland Sharp about it.
 
I had oil through push rods on in my motor Ball&Ball style with T&D rockers. 800 miles tore the motor down after an accident. All 8 intake push rods were gulled. I never had this problem with non-oil push rods, I ordered a new set of cranes . Ball&Ball. The ends seam soft. and the intake push rods are at a hard angle

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Oldmanmopar said:
I had oil through push rods on in my motor Ball&Ball style with T&D rockers. 800 miles tore the motor down after an accident. All 8 intake push rods were gulled. I never had this problem with non-oil push rods, I ordered a new set of cranes . Ball&Ball. The ends seam soft. and the intake push rods are at a hard angle

View attachment 1715153955

View attachment 1715153956
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What block is that in the pictures?
 
It is a high nickle content. 59 degree 340 Resto block. It doesn't have the upper and lower head bolts the R-3 does. This block has the factory 340 casting numbers. I wish it was an R-3 for the extra head bolts need for the heads I am using. The block will take high flex under torque with factory mounts.

Factory blocks usually need to have a front engine plate and a mid plate. so not to distort #5 or #7 cylinder walls when under high torque on launch when pulling on the mount . This usually causes the piston to come through the wall. Destroyed many factory blocks in my day.
 
Good to know, I just googled the different block and a r3 block pooed up and looked just yours. Lol google doesn't know everything lol
 
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