Orange Box?

sabre67

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Hi all, my new to me 70 Dart 440 has the orange box and the ballast resistor still all hooked up. Is this correct? Is the distriutor electronic,no points? Thanks

dart 440.jpg
 

motorpirate

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it's probably an MP electronic conversion kit, put on the engine when it was installed. it is a factory type electronic set up, but not any more factory to the car than the 440 is..
 

RustyRatRod

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but correct for modified, not stock?
Anything is correct for modified. To answer your question as specifically as I know how, electronic ignition did not debut from Chrysler until May of 1971. Also, the orange box, to my knowledge was never offered right from the factory. It was a Direct Connection/Mopar Performance piece. But as mentioned, it is an improvement over points, at least in the sense that you no longer have points to wear out. Plenty of racers have proven through the years that a point type ignition in good shape with a hot coil can run every bit as good as electronic ignition. The difference is normally, the electronic ignition does not wear out like points do.
 

sabre67

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Thanks for al the replies,Im going to run it as is.Its working fine, so Ill let sleeping dogs lay.
 

Bakerlite

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You can change the coil and get rid if the ballast resister if you like as well.
 

Dave_J

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That old "Orange Box" is good as gold. The newer ones are crap and will not hold the Dwell as tight.

Make sure there is no rust or paint under the two screws holding it down. It uses the ground reference through those two screws to switch the coil on and off, just like POINTS.
 
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Swinger 340

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Anything is correct for modified. To answer your question as specifically as I know how, electronic ignition did not debut from Chrysler until May of 1971. Also, the orange box, to my knowledge was never offered right from the factory. It was a Direct Connection/Mopar Performance piece. But as mentioned, it is an improvement over points, at least in the sense that you no longer have points to wear out. Plenty of racers have proven through the years that a point type ignition in good shape with a hot coil can run every bit as good as electronic ignition. The difference is normally, the electronic ignition does not wear out like points do.
It's all about on how you set them up. I have ran a stock single point Distributor that has been curved with no issues. I now run a older Axcel duel point with a Super coil on my van (340) with no issues. My 69 340 Swinger has a Prestolite duel point (stock) with no issues. I just did the first tune up sense installing the 340 in 87' (around 65,000 miles) and the points looked the same as the day I installed them, but the rubbing block was a little thin as for why I changed them out. I hope the new set and condenser will be as good. Go back to my first sentence, it's all on how you set them up. I always set the points with the distributor out of the engine and if the dwell is off a little, I again remove the distributor and do the adjustment. The electronic ignition is not "FAIL SAFE" you still need to adjust the Air Gap. The modular and or control box can also fail without warning. Note: Never had an electronic ignition so I can not tell you which is best but I am content with the points set up. My 340's are mostly stock but I would think at a higher RPM the electronic set up would be better, though the duel points is better on the bounce than the single points.
 

Bakerlite

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It's all about on how you set them up. I have ran a stock single point Distributor that has been curved with no issues. I now run a older Axcel duel point with a Super coil on my van (340) with no issues. My 69 340 Swinger has a Prestolite duel point (stock) with no issues. I just did the first tune up sense installing the 340 in 87' (around 65,000 miles) and the points looked the same as the day I installed them, but the rubbing block was a little thin as for why I changed them out. I hope the new set and condenser will be as good. Go back to my first sentence, it's all on how you set them up. I always set the points with the distributor out of the engine and if the dwell is off a little, I again remove the distributor and do the adjustment. The electronic ignition is not "FAIL SAFE" you still need to adjust the Air Gap. The modular and or control box can also fail without warning. Note: Never had an electronic ignition so I can not tell you which is best but I am content with the points set up. My 340's are mostly stock but I would think at a higher RPM the electronic set up would be better, though the duel points is better on the bounce than the single points.
65,000 miles out of a set of points?
 

Bewy

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If the points rubbing block wore down, which they do with mileage, your ign retarded & you would have lost mileage & HP. It is gradual, might be hard to notice, but it happens. Assuming the timing was correctly set in the first place.
With elec ign, timing doesn't change with mileage, a more powerful ign system [ compared to points ] can be used such as HEI module + E core coil, allowing for 0.060" plug gaps, more reliable starting. When you look at the percentage failure rate of elec igns, it is very small & in my opinion the pros outweigh the cons.
The most simple elec ign to wire up is the HEI 4 pin module. No bal res, dead simple, compact, mount anywhere convenient. Another HEI benefit is variable dwell, important if high rpms are to be used. Points & Ch ECUs do not have this.
The module is the most likely part that could fail & if you are worried about it you can keep a $25 spare in the glove box....Takes 10 m in to change...
 

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