Orange or Chrome box??

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dustoff440

dustoff440

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My question is---it seems that quite a few of you think the chrome ignition module is a little too hot for a daily driver. I was thinking I could have the best of both by rigging a straight wire from the battery to the coil on the same momentary switch I will be using for the nitrous. That way I have the benefit and dependability of an orange box and the extra volts to the coil only when I engage the nitrous. The nitrous blasts will be limited to 15 seconds, I'm thinking that extra juice for brief periods won't hurt the coil.What do you think of this????
 
Not sure about the rest but I've run a chrome box, trouble free on the street for 25-30 years. It doesn't get more reliable than that.
 
Whether you run a stock, orange, chrome or gold igntion box they do not by themselves have any impact on the output of your ignition.

The performance modules (orange, chrome, gold) when mated with the recomended coil and ballast resistor will result in more current flow through the coil resulting less drop off at higher rpms resulting in reliable spark to a higher rpm.

A chrome box with the recomended coil and ballast resistor that spends most of it's time at low rpms will have a coil that runs hot which can shorten it's life expectancy. The same chrome box with a stock coil and ballast or an aftermarket coil and recomended ballast for street use will be no different than the stock system.

The modules are nothing more than electronic switches that replaced the coil. The performance ones use parts that have a higher current capacity and operate more reliably at higher rpms but they do not change the output of your ignition system.
 
be careful of buying the orange boxes as there are alot of cheap knock offs made overseas that will leave you sitting on the side of the road. i know from experience.
 
The Orange box is recomended to 6000 rpm's. It is fine for a replacement box to mild bolt on's (And/or with a small cam)

I like standard products for this area. I've had issues with the Orange boxs.
 
I have a new orange box, and have never ran it. You guys are scaring me into just leaving the chrome one plugged in. :D
 
If your going to be spraying i would want all the spark you can get..ie:msd system...why are you spraying for 15 seconds??...
 
I had read that the maximum time on the spray should be 15 seconds or less. Right now the car will be set up for 1/4 mile in street trim. (3.91 /3500 converter/24 or 25 inch tire)Eventually I will put an A500 in it so that when I get to the end of the quarter on the open road I'll shift it into OD(from 3.91 down to about 2.60 ratio) and hit the nitrous for top end. Or I could hit the nitrous out of the hole and hold it as long as i dare. LOL I want to have my cake and eat it too. A quarter miler and top end machine in one.

360 Magnum engine,The cam is 548lift exhaust 278 duration/ 535 lift intake 268 duration on a 112 lsa, an airgap knock off, a holley 750 vac sec with a proform carb body, hooker headers 1 5/8, and an MP distrib. Sounds to me like I'll be needing a chrome box and an MSD 6AL???????????????????????????
 
I've had a Standard LX101 chrome box on my car since 1990 and now with my new motor I'll be trying a HEI
 
The four pin HEI modules functionality is no different than that Standard LX101 you are using. To just swap out the module will not get you anything and in fact when mated with a stock mopar coil and ballast resistor has less rpm range that the stock factory ignition. Also, just swapping the module doesn't elminate the need for a ballast resistor as many of the postings on the web claim. It will work but so will elminating the ballast from a mopar system, it's just a matter of how long before the excessive heat generated in the coil results in failure.

To get an advantage you need to use an HEI coil with the module.
 
Chrome will work fine on a daily driver. Or you see Don at 4secondsflat.com for one of his systems. They look that stock replacements but have more power (voltage).
 
Dave, I will be using a full GM HEI cap and coil mated to one of my Mopar electronic distributors just to see for myself. In the past I've used the MSD cap adapt which worked well with what Jacobs recommended including the plug wires and Pro 10 box. I like to experiment in just about everything I do as I've said if just to see for myself.

I'm no spring chicken and my Signet ran in the 11's years back using the chrome LX101 among other things I've used on the ignotion but now with a completely stock 91 360 I find that experimenting has always brought me a different outlook and at 66, I still do what what I've done all my life and it works for me.
 
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