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I have seen similar before, looks like engine was run with head gasket or other failure to allow cooling fluid into the oil and that mix producing the usual milky frothy substance, and also rusting.
I would have drained the pan, changed the filter, wiped out as much of the milk shake as possible, & put fresh oil in it. Run a compression check on it, fired it up, run up to operating temperature & checked it again.
I've seen coolant make things milky, but never to this extent. Pulling the pan is next on the list. What I find in the pan will likely decide the direction I go. I don't know if I'll take the time to find the issue, or just replace the entire engine.
Me and Pops just watching it and he said it best. Baptized, but probably partially submerged... You may want to check the transmission and axle oil, too. There's some pretty big flooding in your part of the world on occasion.
was there no pcv system working / seal the engine back up tight and hook a vacuum pump on the dipstick tube and let it run for a few hours
Well you have a table to have a snack at while you figure things out. So that's pretty sweet. Odd some parts look really clean, like a fresh build. If you live in a humid area hat will happen but that white stuff is odd. It almost looks like Lubraplate assembly lube and has about the same viscosity. The coolant looks OK.
There has been some areas of flooding for sure. I doubt it's been dunked, but checking the other fluids isn't a bad idea.... Very good thought on the PVC system. Supposed to be new (remanufactured) engine, just a few thousand miles on it. He has the PVC system hooked in with the brake booster and another vacuum hose - all in "T" from the back of the carb. The table makes everything better .. LOL. It is a fresh engine, the previous owner bought it from Triton out of Florida. And yes, the coolant looks great.
A lot of times Motors that are just started up and run for a few minutes and then shut back off will build that milky crap up inside them. The Cure is to take them out on a road trip and get them hot not overheated but get them hot and that will evaporate a lot of that crap. You see people that start their cars once a week or once a month or or once a day for 5 or 10 minutes that's what happens.
I agree, but the amount seen here is super excessive? No?? I mean, I can get you two cups of pudding from the valve covers alone... LOL.
That ain't good.
That soup in there is oil and water mixed once you get that motor hot and cook the water back out of it you'll have oil again.
You like to experiment scoop a bunch of that up and put it in a little pan and put it on the stove and turn it up to 300 degrees or so 350 cook the humidity out of it and see what happens.
agree. I'll pull the pan next, and give a gawk at the innards. Original plan was to inspect bearings, replace oil pump, replace cam and lifters, install single points distributor, mechanical fuel pump.I see now I need to re-route the PVC system. The anti-freeze wasn't low and it's colored right and the van never overheated (what little we drove it). I just can't imagine a head gasket or crack someplace, but what do I know....
Are you suggesting I eat it ???
Where is the oil dip stick tube? Just below the wind shield, water runs down windshield, down firewall and into dipstick tube. Maybe there is a little crank case pressure (No PVC ?) pushing the dip stick up just enough to relieve pressure then water gets in ? Same with oil fill tube, could rain water get in there? The rust at the rocker arms makes me think it is from external water source, not anti freeze from cooling system. Don't think it will rust like that from anti-freeze coolant. Change out oil and filter, run a pint of sea foam in it to clean it up. Put on 100 miles then change oil and filter again. That water in the oil is probably what is goofing up your roller lifters so they don't pump up and are rattling. Need to fush out oil system a couple times with thin oil 5w30 and that will clean out the lifters too. Park inside at night to keep out of the rain, then see if the engine oil stays cleaned up. One other thing, maybe the previous owner had a 2 block drive back and forth to work, not allowing the engine to warm up and cook the moisture out. So the moisture just kept building up. Change oil and take her out and run her.
Great suggestions, great post and thanks. The dip stick fits ok, I doubt water is entering there but I'll double check. I also agree, it's not anti-freeze because of the rusting. 100% it needs to be driven, but I needed to change cam and oil pump before driving.
I thought you had the valve covers off that motor before and we're working on the guide plates or something on those Cylinder Heads. Did you see that stuff then? Have you just been doing short run starts and shut offs on that motor?
Good time to clean out the oil pan. The usual gunk and who knows what else is in there, old gaskets, plastic zip ties, anything else dropped in there from previous work. all getting sucked up into the oil screen reducing oil flow. Good plan to put the new oil pump on.
After going back and looking at that video agan. I would say that's more than just condensation from cold starts. I would say you had a hurricane Gussy inside that motor that's where all that moisture came from.
I did replace the rockers and no pudding then..... That was shortly after I bought it.I pretty much stopped driving it when the oil pump pressure relief stuck from the bronze dizzy gear shear.... I used my primer to get the oil pressure back and it's had great oil pressure since. Didn't want it to happen away from home, nor did I like the idea of those bronze flakes circulating. So it's sat a lot, most of this spring and summer
Yep. I've seen cottage cheese engines, milky oil built up around filler caps and all. Never seen it like this. I'm special.
Does it read over full on the dipstick?
Last I checked it, it measured fine. I can check it again, I haven't drained the oil yet