Over budget 318 build

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CarfinaticII said:
So that is where I’m at right now. According to the paper that came with the pistons, using their ring gap factor, my ring gap should be .03152. (3.94x.0080). Now the paper says a 4.000 bore which obviously mine is smaller so I’m thinking a .030 should do the trick. What do you think?
Also I put the ring in the bore to test out the feeler gauge. I got .018 is the gap right now for the #1 bore. .019 will not fit in the gap. So I’ll have to grind and test the gap to get it to .030. Or should it be smaller than that?

View attachment 1715634606

View attachment 1715634607

View attachment 1715634608
Click to expand...


Be careful when grinding the rings.... Just do three rotations and check, three rotations and check... Lather rinse repeat...

If you try to do like 10 strokes or more, you can overshoot and make the gaps too big...

After a couple of rings, you'll get an idea of how much to grind...
 
krazykuda said:
Be careful when grinding the rings.... Just do three rotations and check, three rotations and check... Lather rinse repeat...

If you try to do like 10 strokes or more, you can overshoot and make the gaps too big...

After a couple of rings, you'll get an idea of how much to grind...
Click to expand...
Yep. Been there, done that.
 
CarfinaticII said:
So that is where I’m at right now. According to the paper that came with the pistons, using their ring gap factor, my ring gap should be .03152. (3.94x.0080). Now the paper says a 4.000 bore which obviously mine is smaller so I’m thinking a .030 should do the trick. What do you think?
Also I put the ring in the bore to test out the feeler gauge. I got .018 is the gap right now for the #1 bore. .019 will not fit in the gap. So I’ll have to grind and test the gap to get it to .030. Or should it be smaller than that?

View attachment 1715634606

View attachment 1715634607

View attachment 1715634608
Click to expand...



krazykuda said:
Be careful when grinding the rings.... Just do three rotations and check, three rotations and check... Lather rinse repeat...

If you try to do like 10 strokes or more, you can overshoot and make the gaps too big...

After a couple of rings, you'll get an idea of how much to grind...
Click to expand...


I forgot to also mention that you should get a small grinding stone...

After you get the ring gap to the proper size, then use the grinding stone to chamfer the 4 edges of the rings on each face for both sides... This will knock off the sharp edges to keep them from scratching the bore in the block and pistons and help them spin freely....
 
Concerning the cam..
Are you considering solid lifters with adjustable rockers or Just a Factory setup?
 
rumblefish360 said:
Head slap icon here——>”X”
:rofl:
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Here you go....

Lion OMG.jpeg
 
Over budget build 318.. and spend another $500+ 4 Dyno numbers on a street car...:rolleyes:..
 
j par said:
Over budget build 318.. and spend another $500+ 4 Dyno numbers on a street car...:rolleyes:..
Click to expand...
Depends on how you do it. There’s various shows and such that have mobile dynos for 75-150 bucks.
 
krazykuda said:
Be careful when grinding the rings.... Just do three rotations and check, three rotations and check... Lather rinse repeat...

If you try to do like 10 strokes or more, you can overshoot and make the gaps too big...

After a couple of rings, you'll get an idea of how much to grind...
Click to expand...

Thanks! Will do
 
krazykuda said:
Be careful when grinding the rings.... Just do three rotations and check, three rotations and check... Lather rinse repeat...

If you try to do like 10 strokes or more, you can overshoot and make the gaps too big...

After a couple of rings, you'll get an idea of how much to grind...
Click to expand...




toolmanmike said:
Yep. Been there, done that.
Click to expand...

You can whip up a fixture like this in post #101 in this thread: Piston question

Makes it easy to get them right the first time.
 
@Mopar Sam This is probably a dumb question, so laughing at it is ok! When using your ingenious fixture to file rings, using .030 as a round number to illustrate this question....do you set the fixture with a pair of .030 feeler gauges right off the bat and file only one side, or do you set it with .015, file one end, and then reset it .015 again, and flip it over to do the other end? With my limited knowledge, it would seem you need to do it the file both ends way to keep the ring round in the bore. Maybe I'm just over thinking it?
 
JDMopar said:
@Mopar Sam This is probably a dumb question, so laughing at it is ok! When using your ingenious fixture to file rings, using .030 as a round number to illustrate this question....do you set the fixture with a pair of .030 feeler gauges right off the bat and file only one side, or do you set it with .015, file one end, and then reset it .015 again, and flip it over to do the other end? With my limited knowledge, it would seem you need to do it the file both ends way to keep the ring round in the bore. Maybe I'm just over thinking it?
Click to expand...

I just file one side. You just need to make sure that the ring end is butted square against the plate.
 
I should have mentioned 2 things.

1. file towards the center of the ring to avoid chipping on moly rings.

2.Use a good file!
 
Mopar Sam said:
You can whip up a fixture like this in post #101 in this thread: Piston question

Makes it easy to get them right the first time.
Click to expand...
Ya I wasn't thinking and filed a ring and put it back it the bore to check. Oops, too far. If you would measure the gap and remove just the amount you need to it would be easier and you don't have to scratch the bore up taking the rings in and out. I didn't have a flat top piston so it was a chore to get the rings level in the bore.

ring filer2.jpg
 
toolmanmike said:
Ya I wasn't thinking and filed a ring and put it back it the bore to check. Oops, too far. If you would measure the gap and remove just the amount you need to it would be easier and you don't have to scratch the bore up taking the rings in and out. I didn't have a flat top piston so it was a chore to get the rings level in the bore.
Click to expand...

I tend to be a little lazy, and a lot cheap, so I try to come up with things that make things easier for me....while not spending much.
 
j par said:
Concerning the cam..
Are you considering solid lifters with adjustable rockers or Just a Factory setup?
Click to expand...
I don’t know what the top end is going to look like yet. I have those aluminum heads which will need oil through pushrods from what I’ve read. I don’t know what length they will be either. What is better? That’s something I still have yet to understand fully. Like I said it’s my first build but that’s later on in the build. Will it affect anything on the lower end?
 
You’ll need an oil through pushrod for a Magnum block and with use of the comp cams pro magnum rockers which accept oiling pushrods.

If there is another rocker that does this, I’m not aware of it.... I think....

Pushrod length is determined when everything else is done. Contact B3racing for a rocker arm geo kit.
 
toolmanmike said:
Ya I wasn't thinking and filed a ring and put it back it the bore to check. Oops, too far. If you would measure the gap and remove just the amount you need to it would be easier and you don't have to scratch the bore up taking the rings in and out. I didn't have a flat top piston so it was a chore to get the rings level in the bore.

View attachment 1715634954
Click to expand...
That’s the little rig I have to shave em down. For all the more it’s going to be I wouldn’t think that taking material off both sides is necessary.
 
CarfinaticII said:
I don’t know what the top end is going to look like yet. I have those aluminum heads which will need oil through pushrods from what I’ve read. I don’t know what length they will be either. What is better? That’s something I still have yet to understand fully. Like I said it’s my first build but that’s later on in the build. Will it affect anything on the lower end?
Click to expand...


Your heads shaft oil, not pushrod oil. Do yourself a favor and call Mike at B3 and let him sell you rockers and the geometry correction kit you will NEED.

EDIT: forgot you have a magnum block. So you need to pushrod oil and you still need to call Mike.
 
rumblefish360 said:
You’ll need an oil through pushrod for a Magnum block and with use of the comp cams pro magnum rockers which accept oiling pushrods.

If there is another rocker that does this, I’m not aware of it.... I think....

Pushrod length is determined when everything else is done. Contact B3racing for a rocker arm geo kit.
Click to expand...

I thought I read on speedmaster website that the heads I got require oil through pushrods.
 
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