Overheating -- Corrective measure questions.

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Garrett Ellison said:
Looks like a factory 17 inch fixed fan. Those move a lot of air. I've seen them cool a lot worse than that. Like mentioned, new water temp sensor for the sniper, smooth hoses off the radiator, Flow Kooler or PRW pump, and overdrive pulley set. What diameter is your bottom pulley?
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6.5 inch crank pulley and 6 13/16 water pump pulley. Both from 440 source.

Ok. Feeling kinda dumb. When I look at the radiator it is a cross flow radiator which puts the tanks at the sides. The core is 22x18 even though it is listed as a 26x18. The width of the core is correct for the opening but where I have it mounted the top 3-4 inches is blocked off and the bottom of the fan sits below the bottom edge of the core by a couple inches. Why did I mount it there? I don't know. I will need to get a new radiator as well as new pulleys. Any suggestions on models of radiators. And shroud? I am looking at crank pulleys for AC at 7 inches and water pump pulleys at 5 7/8 inches
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Kent mosby said:
6.5 inch crank pulley and 6 13/16 water pump pulley. Both from 440 source.

Ok. Feeling kinda dumb. When I look at the radiator it is a cross flow radiator which puts the tanks at the sides. The core is 22x18 even though it is listed as a 26x18. The width of the core is correct for the opening but where I have it mounted the top 3-4 inches is blocked off and the bottom of the fan sits below the bottom edge of the core by a couple inches. Why did I mount it there? I don't know. I will need to get a new radiator as well as new pulleys. Any suggestions on models of radiators. And shroud? I am looking at crank pulleys for AC at 7 inches and water pump pulleys at 5 7/8 inchesView attachment 1715754490 View attachment 1715754491 View attachment 1715754492
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Griffin Radiators made in the USA
Big block cars came from the factory with 26 inch radiator supports, your car must have been small block equipped.
Crank pulley is OK just source a smaller water pump pulley
I have a larger 3 groove A/C pulley if you get that far PM me and we can work something out.
 
Kent mosby said:
6.5 inch crank pulley and 6 13/16 water pump pulley. Both from 440 source.

Ok. Feeling kinda dumb. When I look at the radiator it is a cross flow radiator which puts the tanks at the sides. The core is 22x18 even though it is listed as a 26x18. The width of the core is correct for the opening but where I have it mounted the top 3-4 inches is blocked off and the bottom of the fan sits below the bottom edge of the core by a couple inches. Why did I mount it there? I don't know. I will need to get a new radiator as well as new pulleys. Any suggestions on models of radiators. And shroud? I am looking at crank pulleys for AC at 7 inches and water pump pulleys at 5 7/8 inchesView attachment 1715754490 View attachment 1715754491 View attachment 1715754492
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Oh ok. i see said the blind man. I got it! LOL I was assuming the space I saw between the water pump and fan might have been a spacer. I'm stupid. Carry on.
 
Oh one thing. "I" would get a two row radiator with the widest tubes you can find. Either 1.25" or 1.5". That radiator you have now is at least a three row. The two row core will actually cool better, believe it or don't and it will give you way more room between the fan and shroud. Probably just what you need to back that fan out some.

Sorry bout all this....we didn't mean to end up puttin a dent in your pocket book. ...but I do believe you will be successful.
 
Measure well with the aftermarket radiators. Some are wider and mounted more towards the engine which can suck up your fan clearance.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Oh one thing. "I" would get a two row radiator with the widest tubes you can find. Either 1.25" or 1.5". That radiator you have now is at least a three row. The two row core will actually cool better, believe it or don't and it will give you way more room between the fan and shroud. Probably just what you need to back that fan out some.

Sorry bout all this....we didn't mean to end up puttin a dent in your pocket book. ...but I do believe you will be successful.
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He mentioned early on it has 1.25” tubes. There’s no way in hell the radiator is the issue. If anyone here thinks it is, they need to explain exactly what the issues are.
 
12many said:
He mentioned early on it has 1.25” tubes. There’s no way in hell the radiator is the issue. If anyone here thinks it is, they need to explain exactly what the issues are.
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We have. He has. it's sitting too far off the radiator support. The fan needs some room between it and the shroud. I'm like you though, I certainly think he can get it running very cool without a radiator purchase. He seems to have sold himself on it. He said it first. No one else.
 
Pull the shroud and run it first before blowing that amount of cash. See what temps you get driving at different speeds. Look into the highest rated cfm electric fan(s) either open style or with shrouds but with the rubber flaps that blow open at speed to allow air to flow through but lay flat at idle or lower speeds.
 
RustyRatRod said:
We have. He has. it's sitting too far off the radiator support. The fan needs some room between it and the shroud. I'm like you though, I certainly think he can get it running very cool without a radiator purchase. He seems to have sold himself on it. He said it first. No one else.
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I get that. I’d like to see what’s going on in front of the radiator, the space between the grill and radiator, what’s happening between the bumper or body filler panel what’s it called and lower core support. Wide *** open or some type of filler, to keep grill air going into the radiator or is too much blowing under, aided by that shroud...etc etc
 
I've never seen it but I'd guess 280 plus. Depends on a lot of factors, though...
 
I have to agree with you there. I have an aunt who lost coolant through a bad radiator in a ‘74 Dart 10 miles on the highway and burn the paint off the air cleaner from the under hood heat. But it made it home and started back up and ran after it cooled off. Didn’t sound very good and needed about 3 quarts of oil, but it would still run.
 
12many said:
I get that. I’d like to see what’s going on in front of the radiator, the space between the grill and radiator, what’s happening between the bumper or body filler panel what’s it called and lower core support. Wide *** open or some type of filler, to keep grill air going into the radiator or is too much blowing under, aided by that shroud...etc etc
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I originally bought the radiator for use on a run stand. I just happened to try it and i squeezed it in there. You can see that there is a 3-4 inch gap under radiator where air passes around and the top 4 inches are blocked by the core support. The trans cooler will be relocated. I need a properly fitted radiator If I expect it to work.
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Kent mosby said:
I originally bought the radiator for use on a run stand. I just happened to try it and i squeezed it in there. You can see that there is a 3-4 inch gap under radiator where air passes around and the top 4 inches are blocked by the core support. The trans cooler will be relocated. I need a properly fitted radiator If I expect it to work.
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I can be slow or thick headed at times so Just for the sake of clarity, the core support “opening” has actual radiator cores and fins filling it....top to bottom, side to side?
 
Kent mosby said:
I originally bought the radiator for use on a run stand. I just happened to try it and i squeezed it in there. You can see that there is a 3-4 inch gap under radiator where air passes around and the top 4 inches are blocked by the core support. The trans cooler will be relocated. I need a properly fitted radiator If I expect it to work.
View attachment 1715754515 View attachment 1715754516 View attachment 1715754517
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I tend to agree. No one can argue that that is the correct radiator for your car, yet I am sure you can defeat your over heating issues with it, a proper and correct fitting radiator would work so much better, I believe. Good luck with your choice!
 
RustyRatRod said:
I tend to agree. No one can argue that that is the correct radiator for your car, yet I am sure you can defeat your over heating issues with it, a proper and correct fitting radiator would work so much better, I believe. Good luck with your choice!
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12many said:
I can be slow or thick headed at times so Just for the sake of clarity, the core support “opening” has actual radiator cores and fins filling it....top to bottom, side to side?
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In my situation it does not fill the opening. I would have to drop the radiator down 4 inches but that would require relocating the battery.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I tend to agree. No one can argue that that is the correct radiator for your car, yet I am sure you can defeat your over heating issues with it, a proper and correct fitting radiator would work so much better, I believe. Good luck with your choice!
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I have sent a message to Cold case radiators and asked about their recommendation since no scamp or valiant came with a BB motor.

Would it be beneficial to open the core support opening by 2 inches a side to fit a 26 inch radiator?
 
Kent mosby said:
In my situation it does not fill the opening. I would have to drop the radiator down 4 inches but that would require relocating the battery.
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Got it now. One strange thing I saw is this, is that a hole?
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Kent mosby said:
I have sent a message to Cold case radiators and asked about their recommendation since no scamp or valiant came with a BB motor.

Would it be beneficial to open the core support opening by 2 inches a side to fit a 26 inch radiator?
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Not in my opinion, no. You'vet got majority of the core exposed. So all of the water going through it will be exposed to airflow since it's moving. It's up to you. Some do it and some don't. I wouldn't.
 
Kent mosby said:
I have just read the rather lengthy and well detailed thread on overheating and yet I still have some questions and did not want to hijack that thread.
I have a 1973 plymouth scamp with a 512 that always ran under 200* while moving. This past weekend I went to a car show Car d'Lane and during the Friday cruise it was 90*. The cruise was more of a crawl. In about 30 minutes I travelled maybe a mile. My temp steadily climbed to 251* according to the sniper readout. Nothing blew and I pulled off the route. As soon as I got it on the road at about 35 mph it dropped to 205 within a couple miles. I obviously need to correct this issue asap.
My cooling specs are.
180* Mr. Gasket 4367 high flow, high performance thermostat
Mopar 7 blade fan. crank to fan pulley ratio,, .95:1
Griffin performance 8-00038 26.5x18 2 row with 1.25 inch tubes
3871088 mopar 8 blade water pump.
7 psi radiator cap
Shroud, Homemade by me but looks appropriate,,, let me know
There is a 10x12 inch trans cooler in front of the radiator.

Since the radiator cools appropriately when the car is moving and at the race track, I assume that I have enough radiator but not enough coolant and/or air flow at low speed or idle. Correct???
Now for the corrective measures. Our race track closed so I do not need a cooling system for that purpose. I am now making the car a street/show driver. Slow speed cooling is a must.

My thoughts to improve things are that I could overdrive the water pump by changing pulleys?? And/or get a different one but this one is supposed to be good.

I could switch to electric fans controlled by the sniper efi but that would require that I change the alternator to a 90 amp from 60 and I would have to change the radiator as this one is 3 inches thick and it sticks out from the core support by an inch leaving only 2 inches from the water pump pulley to core.

I could get an electric water pump that may save some space. In AndyF's book he states that the electric pumps are ok for racing but will not keep up for street use. Any experience on this? Good or bad idea?

I could change the thermostat to a 160 milodon high flow model.

Anyone use a pusher fan in addition to this setup for street use??

I tried to gather as much info as possible before posting but I may have missed something. What would you do to correct the slow speed cooling issue?View attachment 1715754294 View attachment 1715754295 View attachment 1715754296 View attachment 1715754297 View attachment 1715754298
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A whole bunch like my stuff , get the rad. up against the cradle where all air has to come thru the rad , even seal it w/ thin window insulation. .
I have front pusher fan , set to come on at 205 if I remember right . I just switched to thermal barrier coated headers to help w. the '' really hi'' engine bay heat.
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yelow rose , andy f. , and stansblunblu have a lot of knowledge on this stuff !!
I experimented w/ this cooling problem all last summer , if ur pumping out big h/p , forget the all elec. fan thing , tho some have got good results w/ ford contour fans , thats about the only thing i didnt try. A belt driven mech. fan is about 7-8 degrees better than a clutch set up too , ''on mine ".
RustyRatRod said:
One thing I see that kinda jumps out is, you've introduced too much fan into the shroud. Generally, you're supposed to have about half the fan out of the shroud, maybe a little more. Yours is the opposite. Most of the fan is in the shroud. I would try a shorter spacer. You have the room from what it looks like to back the fan out some.

The second thing I'd recommend is a Stewart high flow 160 thermostat. Getting as much flow as early as possible will help the engine from ever getting to "that point".

I like that fan. Although it's not the five blade staggered fan, it is staggered. The MP engine book "says" the five blade staggered fan moves more air, but I don't know if it moves more than THAT fan. If it does, it's splittin hairs. I think backing the fan off some and the cooler high flow thermostat will get it. Make sire it's a Stewart. They ain't cheap, but they're worth the extra money.
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his fan doesnt look to have as much offset on the blades as mine ---??
 
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