Overheating issues on a rebuilt 360

-
'63GT said:
Have the cam number? Make?
Click to expand...
'63GT said:
Eliminate the bypass (pump to manifold) during break-in. This ensures ALL of the water makes it to the radiator, and you will be able to complete break-in without interruption.
I run mine that way all of the time.
BTW, Big blocks don't have them.
Click to expand...
You mean the thermostat? Cause if that’s the case I removed it and still gets over 180
 
195 isn't horrible given you're not cruising and getting lots of air flowing through the radiator. Kinda like sitting in rush hour gridlock traffic. Has it gone above that?
 
Owen Diaz said:
ill give it another try today should I keep it at 2000 rpms even when it’s at 210?
Click to expand...
Always over 2k with a little bit of up to 2500 and back down every couple of minutes.. slowly...
It can "spike" BUT it should go back down..
If it hit 220 and climbing shut down...
If you can have a home fan in front of the radiator, that helps..
Start it with the cap off and "see" the water circulating... keep refilling even if it overflows...
As heat is trying to spike have a water hose running slowly and carefully run it over the radiator.. some might hit the fan and fly..lol.. don't be afraid.. it's just water it ain't going to hurt nothin...
 
Thats why I asked. I was also leaning towards the over thinking it side of the house too.
 
Owen Diaz said:
You mean the thermostat? Cause if that’s the case I removed it and still gets over 180
Click to expand...

No, I mean the bypass. 90° hose between the pump and manifold. Put a 1" NP plug in the manifold, and tape the pump for 1/2 NP and plug it. See pic.
20180312_133511.jpg

Also, that 180° stat is where it begins to open. Get a 160° so that it is fully open by 170°
 
j par said:
Always over 2k with a little bit of up to 2500 and back down every couple of minutes.. slowly...
It can "spike" BUT it should go back down..
If it hit 220 and climbing shut down...
If you can have a home fan in front of the radiator, that helps..
Start it with the cap off and "see" the water circulating... keep refilling even if it overflows...
As heat is trying to spike have a water hose running slowly and carefully run it over the radiator.. some might hit the fan and fly..lol.. don't be afraid.. it's just water it ain't going to hurt nothin...
Click to expand...
Should I keep the radiator cap off even when the car is at 180 cause when I do that while holding the car at 2000 the coolant just starts to shoot out, not sure if you got to see the video I put before but when you get a chance please lmk if that’s the timing I’m supposed to have the indicator on the harmonic balancer only goes up to 10 So I wasn’t really able to get a 100% accurate reading on that
 
'63GT said:
No, I mean the bypass. 90° hose between the pump and manifold. Put a 1" NP plug in the manifold, and tape the pump for 1/2 NP and plug it. See pic.View attachment 1715565768
Also, that 180° stat is where it begins to open. Get a 160° so that it is fully open by 170°
Click to expand...
Setup looks good and I see the plugs and I get what your saying but right now I’m running the car without a thermostat so I have coolant going through at all times
 
Owen Diaz said:
Setup looks good and I see the plugs and I get what your saying but right now I’m running the car without a thermostat so I have coolant going through at all times
Click to expand...

Unless you block the bypass, not all of the water will make it to the radiator, it will bypass it. That loop has to be closed. Just saying..
 
Owen Diaz said:
Alright I’ll give that a try thank you
Click to expand...

It takes some work, but well worth it. Big difference. I've been doing that 25 yrs or so.
I just noticed you live in NY... if you drive that in the cold weather, you might have trouble warming it up. Sorry, should have seen that sooner.
 
'63GT said:
It takes some work, but well worth it. Big difference. I've been doing that 25 yrs or so.
I just noticed you live in NY... if you drive that in the cold weather, you might have trouble warming it up. Sorry, should have seen that sooner.
Click to expand...
Lol yea that’s my worry I want to eventually put an efi system to be able to run it in the winter before it gets snowy
 
j par said:
Always over 2k with a little bit of up to 2500 and back down every couple of minutes.. slowly...
It can "spike" BUT it should go back down..
If it hit 220 and climbing shut down...
If you can have a home fan in front of the radiator, that helps..
Start it with the cap off and "see" the water circulating... keep refilling even if it overflows...
As heat is trying to spike have a water hose running slowly and carefully run it over the radiator.. some might hit the fan and fly..lol.. don't be afraid.. it's just water it ain't going to hurt nothin...
Click to expand...
I had it at 210 and it was climbing so I just let it idle till it went down but is it supposed to get that hot cause of the fact that I’m just revving without moving?
 
Owen Diaz said:
So I was able to get it to to around 20 degrees on idle and it was able to idle at 180 without overheating but when I started to rev it at 2000 or over it began to go over 180 and when I stopped and let it idle it’ll go back to 180 is there anyway I can post a video?

View attachment 1715565677
Click to expand...


Ok, I’m old (39 in jPar years) but it looks to me like the carb main body is on the base plate backwards.


I haven’t done dope or booze since 01/17/1993 so I know I’m not loaded. Is it a camera thing or what?

Edit: when you get the main body correctly oriented you’ll notice you have the fuel bowls on the wrong end as well.
 
You could always go get a radiator cleaning kit with the"T" that bolts into the heater lines and hooks up to the garden hose, has the yellow funnel thingy that hooks into the radiator cap location, and speed the water out of it.

Also I suspect your electric fans are not cutting it.

Recently I measured the air speed my stock mechanical 7 blade fan makes at about 2000 rpm and it was about 45 to 50 MPH
 
yellow rose said:
Ok, I’m old (39 in jPar years) but it looks to me like the carb main body is on the base plate backwards.


I haven’t done dope or booze since 01/17/1993 so I know I’m not loaded. Is it a camera thing or what?

Edit: when you get the main body correctly oriented you’ll notice you have the fuel bowls on the wrong end as well.
Click to expand...
Alright so in layman's terms how do I fix it because honestly I’m 22 years old this is my first carbureted car and also my first engine build and I’ve never messed with trying to rebuild a carburetor in my life so a detailed explanation in laymans terms would be very much appreciated
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top