Overheating issues

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Claydart

Claydart

MOPAR to the very bones
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Hi, has anybody here tried to add a pusher fan to the front of a Champion radiator to bring temps down in stop and go traffic or idling. Right now I can idle for about 15-20 minutes before I have any issues, but then the temps go up and over she boils. I can't find a shroud that fits and I just added a 6 blade Flex fan, but that didn't help.
 
Water pump, pulley ratios, watcha got?
Pushers block air flow...IMO last try kinda thing...
Find or fabricate a shroud...if all else is in good working order.
 
Motor was recently built, not sure of the pulley ratios. I was collecting stuff to try and fab a shroud, but I didn't know if a pusher would work just as well. That and it will be a pain in the butt to remove radiator to install the shroud.
 
Its a pita to deal with the overheating too...Pick your poison...
 
What thickness sheet would i be best served with for a home made shroud, in your opinion?
 
I have a brake to bend aluminum for things like trim coverage and stuff. If the sheets were not too thick, I could use that to bend it.
 
Pusher fans can block airflow. Maybe lose the flex fan and try a pair of puller fans. Street rod guys like stock Ford Taurus fans.
 
Before you go off half cocked and do a bunch of work that won't matter, measure your pulleys. The water pump MUST turn faster than crank speed. This is the number ONE issue that causes overheating. You can build this and fab that, but you have to have the basics correct first. And water pump speed is basic number one.

The water pump pulley must be SMALLER than the crank pulley. I'm betting yours isn't.

Start there first. Buy a QUALITY, high flow thermostat so it's not any more restriction than it has to be. Flow restriction is bad. I buy my high flow thermostats from Stewart Components. They are more money, but they work.


There is more than one thread on here about water pump speed and how it fixed overheating issues. I don't use a shroud on my car and it won't get over 185ish at a stop light on a 105* day. At that same temp is will cruise at 170ish.

Measure your stuff and see what you have.
 
yellow rose said:
...a bunch of work that won't matter, measure your pulleys.
Click to expand...

My stock 67 Dart has no fan shroud and the fan sits 3-4 inches from the radiator (stock distance) and It can idle all day long without issue on the hottest day.

My 67 273 has 6 1/4 Dia crank pulley and a 6 1/2 Dia water pump pulley

IMHO Regardless of a thermostats flow it will only allow enough water to flow to maintain the water temperature it is designed for. It opens and closes depending on temp and that will increase or decrease the flow.

My bet is you have some other issue, trapped air, bad water pump, blocked passages, clogged rad cores, too small radiator core, pulley speeds etc.

Also some details about the engine, rad, year, modifications, etc would be very helpful. Are you running a 440 with a slant 6 radiator?
 
It is a rebuilt 273 with a little bit of aggressive cam and a brand new champion aluminum radiator. the motor is a 1965 block with 67 heads,and a new water pump.
 
x2 yellow rose . I have the same issue . Not solved completely but getting there . I have a BB with a 22"A/C rad . What helped is : high flow thermostat , high flow water pump and fan clutch . thermostat is 160d. It all helps . If you want to make your own shroud you need sheet that is .060"-.100". My next endeavor is a pulley change . Don't give up , you can solve this .
 
Claydart said:
It is a rebuilt 273 with a little bit of aggressive cam and a brand new champion aluminum radiator. the motor is a 1965 block with 67 heads,and a new water pump.
Click to expand...
Which Champion Radiator? They make 2 2 row, 3 row and 4 row.
 
In my experience, for my engines, flexfans were junk IMO. Your results may vary.
Start with a direct-drive 7-blade all-steel factory fan....... and then work backwards, to see what you can get away with.
 
Claydart said:
Hi, has anybody here tried to add a pusher fan to the front of a Champion radiator to bring temps down in stop and go traffic or idling. Right now I can idle for about 15-20 minutes before I have any issues, but then the temps go up and over she boils. I can't find a shroud that fits and I just added a 6 blade Flex fan, but that didn't help.
Click to expand...
I had a 15" pusher fan in front , mounted as far from the rad. as possible on a 68/505'' barracuda. I took the pusher off like a member on here suggested, it hasn`t helped .
It was comforting to hear it kick on at 200* when sitting at a stop light .
I am currently looking for smaller than 7" waterpump pulley for a single belt big block. Don't think there is such a thing.
 
Ok so I drove the car today for about 45 minutes and it did not overheat, but, the temp was up pretty high when I came to a stop light or in traffic. I checked the size of my crank pulley and it was approx. 6 1/4" wide and my fan pulley is approx. 6 7/8" wide. I know that the fan pulley should be smaller than the crank pulley, but I am having the hardest time finding a fan pulley that measures less than 6 1/4" x 2 3/4" deep. Can anybody here steer me in the right direction to find such a part?
 
are these the original pulleys (as far as you know)? are you running a/c? single groove alt? if it's just alt/water pump/crank, i might have a smaller water pump pulley you can have for shipping $. will check on monday if you like.
 
Single groove pulley, that would be awesome if you had one. I am having an awful time trying to get this engine swap up and running good enough to take it out for a ride without carrying around a couple of water jugs for when it overheats.
 
If at all possible, I would like to find a water pump pulley that measures 5 7/8"X 2 7/8" That would be ideal in my situation.
 
i'll see what i have. because of work it will probably be monday before i get to it. in the mean time, measure how deep your's is from the back edge to the face
 
Get rid of your bypass. I've been doing this for years, makes a big difference. Just plug the Intake and tap the water pump 1/2 NPT and plug that too. 100% of the heated water WILL pass through the radiator that way.
Run a cooler high flow thermostat is a plus.
You can also put a anti cavitation plate on your impeller inside your water pump.
 
I have pullers on my gen 3 install and new rad. I don't go over 190F (when fans kick in). even in town. Ohio weather. In the hwy I run at 180f constant. This is with a 180f stat as well.
 
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