1. 4geardemon

    4geardemon Well-Known Member

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    Hey all.

    I am getting closer to doing some painting on a d100 I picked up last fall. I have a 30'x24' garage. The garage also has a Good sized Reznor gas furnace.

    My question is.

    I understand and am capable of setting up the booth but how do I set up the booth to paint in and not get blown up? LOL.

    I am in SD and it is obviously winter. Temps are ranging from -5 up to 40 degrees. So clearly I need to have heat. I have done some research on the topic but I have not found any clarification or setups I am sure of. This is my first time doing this. You could say I literally dove in head first and learning as I go.

    Any info and possibly pictures would be very helpful!!

    Thank you!
     
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    • Scamp Rhonda

      Scamp Rhonda Well-Known Member

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      Wait till it warms up. Then you can heat it up good, shut it down and shoot the car. I'm in Minnesota and I wouldn't think about shooting a car in the winter time with a gas flame going. I bet you got some other stuff to do while you wait for some better weather. Good luck, Steve
       
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      • 4geardemon

        4geardemon Well-Known Member

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        Thanks. I have plenty to do before I need to paint. I still have the cab and front clip to work over. I just got done with all the metal work on the bed and it is completely stripped to bare metal. It will be staying inside until it is painted. I am just worried it might start flash rusting or whatever. It has already been this way for a few weeks and nothing is noticeable. Maybe that is the rookie side not knowing and worry about something he shouldn't. IDK. I would at least like to get the epoxy on it.
         
      • Fred Scigliano

        Fred Scigliano Off center a bit FABO Gold Member

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        You need to get that bare metal coated Steve and your gonna have to sand it again just before you epoxy it and clean it with wax and grease remover.
        I have a wood pellet stove in my shop and some small electric heaters. I heat the garage up real good shut the heat off and lay down the epoxy and then ventilate the shop then turn the heat back on. Still alive haven't blown anything up yet. lol
        As Scamp Rohnda said I would wait till warmer weather before I painted it.
        Just my 2 cents...
         
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        • George Jets

          George Jets 1967 Dart 2 Door FABO Gold Member

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          Use what is called a "Make Up Air Unit". These propane or natural gas heaters heat the outside air with the flame outside, then they blow the heated air to the inside of your building.

          Your local Farm AG Service has them, they are called Hog Barn Heaters.
           
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          • Fred Scigliano

            Fred Scigliano Off center a bit FABO Gold Member

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            They heat an area up real fast. My concern with painting in a building that is not a controlled paint booth is moving air around real fast and getting dirt in the nice new paint.
             
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            • Demonic

              Demonic Well-Known Member

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              ^ What Fred said. They will use a good bit of propane as well, expensive to run.

              You can usually tell when one is needed in a restaurant/sub shop. Grill exhaust too large - the door is hard to open in the winter, and it's cold inside.
               
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              • valiantwagonguy

                valiantwagonguy Well-Known Member

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                Just wait until the weather is right for painting and forget about heating the garage. I shot my 65 Barracuda here in this little garage in late October here in NY. It was around 50 degrees out and everything went real well. No heat,no fans blowing hot and and dust. Patience is your friend.

                dsc03294a_1757275305_o.jpg

                dsc03295a_1757275471_o.jpg

                dsc03298a_1758127492_o.jpg
                 
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                • George Jets

                  George Jets 1967 Dart 2 Door FABO Gold Member

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                  The conversation goes from the guy worrying about blowing up his garage from the flash explosion of the paint vapors, to worrying about a few specs of dirt getting into the paint job that can be sanded out as you go with the new basecoat clearcoat paint systems. Then the final buff at the end.

                  Keep 'em comming guys . . .
                   
                • George Jets

                  George Jets 1967 Dart 2 Door FABO Gold Member

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                  Like the D100s too.

                  20200119_085457.jpg

                  20200119_085442.jpg

                  By the way I use a Make Up Air Unit, propane powered to heat my 20 x 30 make shift spray booth in Minnesota. It's a designated building just for painting seperate from the main shop.
                   
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                  • 67Dart273

                    67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                    BE DAMN CAREFUL what you recommend, some of this stuff can be an explosion hazard. Are these a "direct fired" unit? If so, this is NOT what you want for a paint situation. You want a furnace/ heater with a heat exchanger, AND with (several terminologies) sealed combustion chamber, outside combustion air (pipe dedicated to the burner air)

                    Most ELECTRIC ducted furnaces are not safe in a painting environment, because the heating elements are in effect 'direc fired' that is, they are in the heated space's duct/ airstream
                     
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                    • jonn6464

                      jonn6464 1970 Duster FABO Gold Member

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                      I agree with 2 other replies, get some epoxy layed down over the bare metal, and wait until nicer weather to paint.

                      I primer & paint in my shop all the time. I have put together a temporary booth that I can set up and tear down easily. Get some 1.5" or 2" PVC tubing from local hardware store. The larger diameter is sturdier, but depends on how much you wanna spend. I bought fittings (tees, elbows) on-line for cheap. Make a big cube out of the PVC and put a clear tarp over the top and sides. Use a clear tarp so light gets through. I use at least 1 middle post along each side for support. Mine can be built anywhere from 8 ft tall x 6 ft long for spraying parts and small pieces, to 8x20 for full car to fit in. Just depends on how many sections you put in.
                      Then use fans, 2 tall and 1 short to circulate air out of your garage door while you paint. The air should blow under and over the area you are painting. Not directly onto the vehicle. You need to lay fresh plastic sheets down just before you paint, or wet down the floor to keep dust down, but sheets are best. The tall fans are the most important, they will blow away any particles that come into your space. Leave the fans running while the paint dries for a couple couple of hours. Should keep any particles from landing on your baby.

                      You will find what works best when you shoot the epoxy primer. And, you can afford to make mistakes with primer. It just gets sanded and covered anyways. At a minimum, I would shoot epoxy, do any final body work/filler, spot spray epoxy on those areas, shoot 2K sealer, then paint. Always sanding between layers, going from 220 (epoxy to sealer) to 600 (sealer to paint). Then the wet sanding begins! But you may not be looking for that level of detail. Single stage paint may be fine for your needs.

                      You'll get many opinions on this. What I'm telling you is just what works best for me.
                      Good luck and take pics
                       
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                      • 4geardemon

                        4geardemon Well-Known Member

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                        For now my main intention is to get the epoxy down. Since the bed is bare metal. Then I can work on rust repair on the cab and also do bodywork on the bed. I am fine with not painting until warmer weather is here. Just need to spray the epoxy and not blow up.
                         
                      • jonn6464

                        jonn6464 1970 Duster FABO Gold Member

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                        You are headed in the right direction. Epoxy is key for bare metal, the quicker the better. And your filler can be applied right over top, if you need to smooth out any areas. Sounds like you've got a good plan in place.
                         
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                        • moper

                          moper Well-Known Member

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                          Wall off a booth area. Clear plastic and 1x wood works great. Cut a couple holes in the "interior" non -door end and tape in some furnace filters. Run plenty of fans in the door. Negative pressure will keep the fumes away from your ignition source. Get the booth clean, the car masked and cleaned, heat up the space, turn on the fans, and spray. Leave the heat and fans on the whole time, including the first 3-4 hours of curing. You won't blow up. You just need fans to pull air from the booth, a way for air to enter the booth, and enough heated air volume to keep the temps where the reducer you're using will work. Also wear a good respirator.
                           
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