Paint color choices

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dartfreak75

dartfreak75

Restore it, Dont part it!
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Hey guys I'm having a hard time deciding on a color I'm between three. I'm looking for a burnt orange copper look I really like fk5 my original color is t5 so they are kinda similar anyways what has me stuck is the metallic everyone is telling me to not do a single stage metallic but I cant really afford a bc/cc. But here are the three colors iv found and a few pics of what I'm going for. If you have a car with a similar color please post a picture and name of your paint. Of the three paints below which do you think will be the closest to fk5 or t5. Or the cars in the pics thanks. Well those didn't upload in the order I picked them but the top one is burnt orange metallic from the coating store. The middle one is copper from paint for cars and the last one is sunburnt copper pearl from summit. Thanks again oh I forgot to mention I'm putting on a white top.

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come on Junior, we discussed this allready

EL5
(and dont forget to mention your putting a white top back on)

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Pretty sure that middle color (on the second sprayout and the Road Runner) is K3 for the 1970 model year. My car was originally T5. When it is a fresh paint it looks great. But it looked too brown for me. That Road Runner color looks nice.

Where in VA do you live? I know a shop that did a base coat/clear coat paint job for me that was reasonably priced.
 
I’m a bit biased considering my Scamp is T5 (cinnamon metallic). I think it’s a bit darker than your T4? It’s a ‘75/76 year color.

If I had a ‘68 year Mopar, I really like M1 (turbine bronze).
 
69cudaownr said:
Mine is Deep Burnt Orange 1970 colour code K5. I prefer the deeper colours. My avatar photo shows it in sunlight.
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Those are some beautiful cars.
1969VADart said:
Pretty sure that middle color (on the second sprayout and the Road Runner) is K3 for the 1970 model year. My car was originally T5. When it is a fresh paint it looks great. But it looked too brown for me. That Road Runner color looks nice.

Where in VA do you live? I know a shop that did a base coat/clear coat paint job for me that was reasonably priced.
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The k5 is what I'm leaning towards more i really love that color and those cars pictured about are so nice. I'm from southwest va there is a paint not far from me I may check them out. Where is the one your talking about?
H22A4 said:
I’m a bit biased considering my Scamp is T5 (cinnamon metallic). I think it’s a bit darker than your T4? It’s a ‘75/76 year color.

If I had a ‘68 year Mopar, I really like M1 (turbine bronze).
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Mine was originally t5 also (1975) it didn't look as dark as your scamp tho. That is a beautiful car btw!
Streetsboro Rick said:
In the end it is your car go with what you like!
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Yes you are absolutely correct I will have to make the decision I just wanted to see some pics of cars with these colors so I can see the final results. Thanks for the pics you guys
 
dartfreak75 said:
Mine was originally t5 also (1975) it didn't look as dark as your scamp tho. That is a beautiful car btw!
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Thanks. Sorry I got the wrong numbers; mine is T4 and yours is T5. T5 is lighter.
 
dartfreak75 said:
The k5 is what I'm leaning towards more i really love that color and those cars pictured about are so nice. I'm from southwest va there is a paint not far from me I may check them out. Where is the one your talking about?
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Opposite corner of the state, but if things fall apart for you locally, it might be worth considering.
 
So I've been doing some research and found this it's all the paint codes from all the makers and years along with different brand codes. Are those code what I need to give to the paint store to have the color mixed?

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sscuda said:
Ask 5 guys for their opinion and you'll get 5 different answers. Pick the color that works for you.

Good luck with your project.

sscuda
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Thanks I'm just trying to find the color that would be the closest to k5 that's what I'm looking for without paying 400 a gallon for custom mixed paint. I found out that TCP will mix factory coded colors but its 109$ a quart before hardener and reducer. That Is out of my price range. Summit and Eastwood and paint for cars and has single stage for 89 bucks a gallon. Paint for cars has a bc/cc for 188 I may even do that it is the 2nd color layout up top in my original post.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Thanks I'm just trying to find the color that would be the closest to k5 that's what I'm looking for without paying 400 a gallon for custom mixed paint. I found out that TCP will mix factory coded colors but its 109$ a quart before hardener and reducer. That Is out of my price range. Summit and Eastwood and paint for cars and has single stage for 89 bucks a gallon. Paint for cars has a bc/cc for 188 I may even do that it is the 2nd color layout up top in my original post.
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I can understand working within a budget. Weigh the pros and cons before you commit to any material. There are 3 levels of quality in the paint world, 5 counting some of the junk refinish paint out there. You have to ask yourself; what level of quality is your ride worth.
 
sscuda said:
I can understand working within a budget. Weigh the pros and cons before you commit to any material. There are 3 levels of quality in the paint world, 5 counting some of the junk refinish paint out there. You have to ask yourself; what level of quality is your ride worth.
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Thank you what are the 3 levels? I know you have lacquer enamel and urathane with the latter being the top but of the urathane what makes one better than the other?
 
Go to a pro paint store and ask some questions as to quality. They will hve 2 or 3 different "line" of paint. The more it osts, the better they will tell you it is, and no doubt true.
I generally use acrylic urethane as I do not NEED the ultra gloss of bc/c, THAT is just me..... I get it from TCP Global, mixed to factory receipe. I have been told it is old PPG. Works well for me. THe OEM finish back in the 60's-70's before bc//cc can have a good shine IF yo know how, BT it will not shine like with clear, wet sanded, buffed.
Take the clear. YOU will find there are several lines of that, the better stuff will have better properties, and will take UV rays better than the heaper stuff. I am sure some of our pro guys can explain this better, but I bet I am accurate in my thinking.
If $$ challenged lke most of are, I say this, do all the sheetmetal rust repair. get some good epoxy primer, do the filler work,, get it straight... and seal it all....and, I like the cover the expoxy with good high fill urethane primer. THAT will take time and $$$$, then save your $$$ until yo can afford GOOD top coat material, what ever you decide to use. If you can get it that far, you will be able to come p with $500-600 for top coat! Right!?????
 
barbee6043 said:
Go to a pro paint store and ask some questions as to quality. They will hve 2 or 3 different "line" of paint. The more it osts, the better they will tell you it is, and no doubt true.
I generally use acrylic urethane as I do not NEED the ultra gloss of bc/c, THAT is just me..... I get it from TCP Global, mixed to factory receipe. I have been told it is old PPG. Works well for me. THe OEM finish back in the 60's-70's before bc//cc can have a good shine IF yo know how, BT it will not shine like with clear, wet sanded, buffed.
Take the clear. YOU will find there are several lines of that, the better stuff will have better properties, and will take UV rays better than the heaper stuff. I am sure some of our pro guys can explain this better, but I bet I am accurate in my thinking.
If $$ challenged lke most of are, I say this, do all the sheetmetal rust repair. get some good epoxy primer, do the filler work,, get it straight... and seal it all....and, I like the cover the expoxy with good high fill urethane primer. THAT will take time and $$$$, then save your $$$ until yo can afford GOOD top coat material, what ever you decide to use. If you can get it that far, you will be able to come p with $500-600 for top coat! Right!?????
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To be honest I don't plan on having 500 or 600 in the whole body period much less the top coat lol. I'm using 2k urathane hs primer around 100 a gallon and maybe around 200 in the paint not counting filler and sand paper od course. I have a similar thread started on a FB abody group and I had a guy over there tell me he used a "cheap" bc/cc and the clear is cracking he showed me a picture the car still looks pretty darn good to me but he said it lasted 8 years. I don't understand what the difference is urathane is urathane what would make one brand different that another? Just to be clear my car Is a fixer upper backyard project its never been a priority to make it a show car I just want it to look good while I'm driving it I'm painting the car myself i dont have a booth or a garage I have a carport I'm gonna wrap in plastic. I know it's not gonna be perfect or show worthy so 100 paint is fine with me even If it doenst turn out to be perfect. I'm not gonna spend 500 bucks a gallon on paint and then mess it up when I do my backyard spray job. If I mess up with summit paint oh well screw it I will sand it down and order another quart lol you know what I mean? I did learn my lesson with cheap enamel paint I painted this same car 13-14 years ago with enamel tractor emplement paint and it didnt last 5 years. But it was 20 bucks a gallon so I didnt expect much.
 
We simply share opinions, sometimes knowledge here. You are like me, I drive my cars, make them as nice as I can in my budget. Like you I spray without a booth so we know there will be some bugs, dust in the paint.
You have used tractor enamel, We now it is tough. Wenow it fades, UV gets it after a while. Short while usually. Ever try to DA the stuff off???? Tough!
Costs. You have checked out TCP Global. Or do the same with any pro paint store. But at TCP your T5 was it in 75 is $250 /gal for acrylic urethane from their deal that uses a factory formular. Add hardner an some reducer, shipping, and it comes to bout $350 a gal. I have done cars with 1 /2 gal but not under everything. 2 qts might get you done. BUY 3 qts and that will be same price as a gal!!!!
TCP bc/cc will be $450-500 , yes they have a different qualities of clear. I bet acrylic urethane will suit you

well as it does me.

Again there is a difference in th chemistry of all this stuff. Some flows better, some sands/buffs better, some takes UV better, etc.

Ever buy cheap body filler and then pay MORE for the better stuff??????IF so you know what I am talking about! Difference in sand paper, cut off wheels, spray guns......
 
dartfreak75 said:
To be honest I don't plan on having 500 or 600 in the whole body period much less the top coat lol. I'm using 2k urathane hs primer around 100 a gallon and maybe around 200 in the paint not counting filler and sand paper od course. I have a similar thread started on a FB abody group and I had a guy over there tell me he used a "cheap" bc/cc and the clear is cracking he showed me a picture the car still looks pretty darn good to me but he said it lasted 8 years. I don't understand what the difference is urathane is urathane what would make one brand different that another? Just to be clear my car Is a fixer upper backyard project its never been a priority to make it a show car I just want it to look good while I'm driving it I'm painting the car myself i dont have a booth or a garage I have a carport I'm gonna wrap in plastic. I know it's not gonna be perfect or show worthy so 100 paint is fine with me even If it doenst turn out to be perfect. I'm not gonna spend 500 bucks a gallon on paint and then mess it up when I do my backyard spray job. If I mess up with summit paint oh well screw it I will sand it down and order another quart lol you know what I mean? I did learn my lesson with cheap enamel paint I painted this same car 13-14 years ago with enamel tractor emplement paint and it didnt last 5 years. But it was 20 bucks a gallon so I didnt expect much.
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I did the same as you when I painted my car with Urethane. It was listed as VOC paint. I used the best Organic vapor respirator I could find. There is no filter mask of any type that is acceptable for usage in the PPM you will generate of VOC in a shrouded enclosure.

You need a supplied air system if you spray VOC.

I almost killed myself. Diagnosis... Chemical Pnemonia.

Permanently sensitized myself to VOC, and Most solvents. If I spray any kind of paint again, my breathing could stop. ( I usually need my breathing)

I really wish I would have had someone warn me ahead of time, I thought " I know its nasty, but I am only going to spray one car, big deal" There is a reason this paint is listed as immediate risk to health. Google Union Carbide Bophal India if you want some chemistry

If you are not using VOC paint then it is probably less of a worry.
 
TRUE Rustyswinger!!!!! YES everyone needs to read your words and especially IF you have never been exposed to these chemicals understand they can kill you. I am sensitive to the chemicals like you and years ago it no doubt affected by breathing. At age something will kill me , but I rather it not be paint though.

The primers I get thru PCG Global as they are Calif. co. some have lower VOC but I believe all their autp paints are not low VOC.

The paint is dangereos because of one thing, among others... Isocyanides..... does cyanide ring a bell for people!???
 
barbee6043 said:
TRUE Rustyswinger!!!!! YES everyone needs to read your words and especially IF you have never been exposed to these chemicals understand they can kill you. I am sensitive to the chemicals like you and years ago it no doubt affected by breathing. At age something will kill me , but I rather it not be paint though.

The primers I get thru PCG Global as they are Calif. co. some have lower VOC but I believe all their autp paints are not low VOC.

The paint is dangereos because of one thing, among others... Isocyanides..... does cyanide ring a bell for people!???
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Isocyanides are in lots of things, too. Just like lead it builds up in your system and your body cant process them it just accumulates over time which is why you get sensitive to them. It stores them in your fat, like in your brain. New car smell, Fresh carpet, many other aerosols etc. Nasty shite.

Something will kill us all for sure, but this one is avoidable.
 
I agree about the urathane and the toxicity. I actually had decided to use acrylic enamel. But I read alot about it and where I'm painting outside I think it will ok. I have a high dollar respirator. I'm gonna get a chem suit and some good gloves.
 
Way back in the '70's I wold buy a used gooseneck trailer that needed work, have it sandblasted and I pint ed with what was Acryd enamel, no hardner. It did not bother me. Then after a few I boght some acrylic enamel with hardner. Painting outside. Next day bout 12 hours later, it made me feel like I was having a high fever, but normal temp.
The hardner I bet contains the nasty stuff ,so be careful. I doubt anything but a fresh air suit will really protect you. Some of us are just sensitive to chemicals. I hate to even smell aerosol paints!
Like Round Up, don't under estimate the deadly stuff out there.
 
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