painting control arms

-
E

EvanS

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2017
Messages
62
Reaction score
14
Location
Alta Loma, CA
Hi, I am refurbing my control arms on my 68 Valiant and i have blasted them and primered the ucas and moving to the lcas next. I'm looking for the best paint to use to prevent it from rusting. Thanks.

Side note. I noticed after having a very tough time removing the ball joint nut on the ucas and having a very tough time, that the threads are almost non existent. Will that be a problem when rebuilding them?

Thanks.
 
Do you want them to look like this?

20170604_171803.jpg
 
72Dart6pack said:
Do you want them to look like this?

View attachment 1715195611
Click to expand...
I would love to, but it does not have to be perfect.

Hellrats said:
VHT Brake Caliper, Drum, and Rotor Paints SP739 I used this on mine and it is some tough stuff. The ball jointHa threads aren't deep like a regulator bolt thread. As long as they tighten up there are fine.
Click to expand...

I have used vht before to blackout some lenses, maybe 15 years ago and it did not last very long. How have been your results so far and how long ago dd you use it?
 
When you install the new ball joints in the UCAs, make sure you can torque it to the proper torque, I think its 125 lbs ft, but check your FSM, to be sure. When torqing if it just spins in the arm you will have to spot weld it.
When I paint arms, I first use an epoxy etch primer, then any good engine paint. Wipe everything down with wax, and grease remover first.
Dave
 
I have used the chat also. Can't advise about durability. Car is still being assembled. A friend did his on a 65 mustang and it still looks new. Another guy used appliance paint which has held up well.good luck
 
This is for davebarracuda67

SPOT WELD ??? That is a definite NO, never weld on it. If it spins check the taper and make sure its not wobbled out if it is replace the arm. If it just spinning because you are using a hand ratchet hit it with a impact wrench till it stops spinning then torque it to specs then tighten more to line up cotter pin hole never back it off to line up.
 
Last edited:
brian6pac said:
This is for davebarracuda67

SPOT WELD ??? That is a definite NO, never weld on it. If it spins check the taper and make sure its not wobbled out if it is replace the arm. If it just spinning because you are using a hand ratchet hit it with a impact wrench till it stops spinning then torque it to specs then tighten more to line up cotter pin hole never back it off to line up.
Click to expand...

He's talking about the installation of the ball joint into the upper control arm, you tack weld, if those threads are boogered up.
Not the taper of the ball joint into the spindle.
You have misinterpreted the reply.
 
EvanS said:
Hi, I am refurbing my control arms on my 68 Valiant and i have blasted them and primered the ucas and moving to the lcas next. I'm looking for the best paint to use to prevent it from rusting. Thanks.

Side note. I noticed after having a very tough time removing the ball joint nut on the ucas and having a very tough time, that the threads are almost non existent. Will that be a problem when rebuilding them?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
I'm redoing my suspension right now too and the upper ball joints don't have really deep threads they are shallow my moog replacements are a little more course but not much!

20180619_184546.jpg
 
He did say ball joint nut (not ball joint) in the post#1
and to barracudadave67 sorry I missed the wording.
There are no threads in the UCA where the ball joint screws in,
I guess I take it that most people know that and if the hole is to big to hold the ball joint I would look for another arm, I know there were a few that had a small weld from the factory at some point in the 70's but I have only seen a couple. I have changed many upper ball joints and never had one that wouldn't tighten up. I never tell anyone to weld on a steering component because you don't now what experience they have or don't have. You don't know what he means when he says the ball joint wont tighten up, the hole might be way to big and a spot weld might hold it for a while then in a hard corner work the weld till it rips out the small piece of the sheet metal control arm and the ball joint pops out leaving you with no control of your vehicle.
 
brian6pac said:
He did say ball joint nut (not ball joint) in the post#1
and to barracudadave67 sorry I missed the wording.
There are no threads in the UCA where the ball joint screws in,
I guess I take it that most people know that and if the hole is to big to hold the ball joint I would look for another arm, I know there were a few that had a small weld from the factory at some point in the 70's but I have only seen a couple. I have changed many upper ball joints and never had one that wouldn't tighten up. I never tell anyone to weld on a steering component because you don't now what experience they have or don't have. You don't know what he means when he says the ball joint wont tighten up, the hole might be way to big and a spot weld might hold it for a while then in a hard corner work the weld till it rips out the small piece of the sheet metal control arm and the ball joint pops out leaving you with no control of your vehicle.
Click to expand...

There sure are threads in the control arm where the joint screws in, and is one reason why they make a socket for them.
They just are not very deep like a bolt thread, as mentioned.
He meant spot the joint in the control arm, which has always been an acceptable fix.
BTW, it's impossible for them to fall out unless the ball comes out of the socket.
 
TrailBeast said:
There sure are threads in the control arm where the joint screws in, and is one reason why they make a socket for them.
They just are not very deep like a bolt thread, as mentioned.
He meant spot the joint in the control arm, which has always been an acceptable fix.
BTW, it's impossible for them to fall out unless the ball comes out of the socket.
Click to expand...

A new control arm does not have threads, the ball joint has a thread that is not very deep and once you screw a ball joint in it leaves an indent of a thread, I worked in a front end shop from 1977 - 84 and in 89 - 95 was a service manager of a front end specialty shop so I have seen it all in these old cars and I have fixed butchard up cars that a so called alignment shop fixed, one was a welded upper ball joint that came up out of the control arm and you are right it can't come all the way out but the control arm was at the bottom of the joint on the spindle and that gave it a ton of play, like 4" in and out and front to rear and every other point at the top of the tire. So I don't tell someone I don't know to weld a ball joint especially if I cant see it first hand.
 
EvanS said:
I have used vht before to blackout some lenses, maybe 15 years ago and it did not last very long. How have been your results so far and how long ago dd you use it?
Click to expand...
Been 3 years and still looks great. About 8,000 miles or so. Most paints are good it's the prep work that has to be done the right way for any type of painting.
 
Last edited:
Yes ........ I ment tack weld the ball joint into the control arm, if it spins, and won't torque to specs, with a torque wrench.
Sorry I wasn't clear.
Dave
 
For years I've gotten one more use out of a worn UCA by welding the ball joint in and never, never, never had it come apart. The next time it's replaced the UCA gets thrown away, but there's no reason not to get one more use out of them
 
You will have a better chance of the joint tightening up IF you turn it counter-clockwise until the first thread drops in (on used arms). Then turn it clockwise to freaking tight (That's the spec I use...)
 
Everyone does it differently, i did all mine to look stock cosmoline on lowers and uppers are sprayed with t-9 along with all bolts steering link tie rod ends
9EC14DF2-31F9-4F07-9069-9BFD8F3D2B17.jpeg
A5145A3A-BF9F-4D85-955A-D089908F844C.jpeg
9DC6E0BF-618F-46E6-A9C6-757268588A63.jpeg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top